my 2001 wrangler has 240,000 miles.For 160,000 of those miles, she has ticked. What kind of damage,if any, is going on? Not going to tear into her until I'm ready or number 5 piston breaks.
picture for proof of said wrangler...
my 2001 wrangler has 240,000 miles.For 160,000 of those miles, she has ticked. What kind of damage,if any, is going on? Not going to tear into her until I'm ready or number 5 piston breaks.
picture for proof of said wrangler... View attachment 270802
I ran synthetic oil from when I bought her back in 2001 to roughly 180,000 miles.Still got the tick. Pulled the valve cover to change the gasket and didn't look any cleaner than if I had run dino for all those years so been running dino since. I have played with viscosities and filters plus additives such as Lucas and the sound is the same.
You know it’ll be a worm hole fixing it, cam and lifters is all you can really do. You could play a what if game and freak yourself out about material from the cam lobes/lifters or some bull crap getting on a bearing surface. But it’s not like you haven’t been driving it for a long ass time. I’d just lash the valves if you can and keep on chugging along.
if I have to go through the problem of changing cam/lifters...removing the head and front cover...timing set...etc,I'll just pull the whole engine and rebuild her BUT the oil pressure is outstanding and with just a seep from the rear seal plus no smoking,I see no reason she won't pull past the 300,000 mile mark. I'm more worried about busting up the number 5 piston before the engine wears out.
Matt,I'll just get me some Cummins stickers and call it good.
Here’s a link that’ll explain it a little. You can shim the rockers and ,I’m assuming because I’m not fully read on all this, adjust your torque spec slightly to get more or less preload on your lifters. Which would be lashing the valves. They just aren’t as easy to do ask a SBC perhaps. I haven’t done this personally, but it’s worth a shot because over the course of those miles I’m sure it has worn some of the mating surfaces which has freed up some tolerances causing your tick. It may be more work than you want to do, but it’s a idea. There are a few part numbers linked in there to shims use to adjust your preload/lash so I’m thinking it’ll be fairly easy Jimmy.
Edit: Have you checked the torque that’s on the rockers to make sure they haven’t backed off any in 200k miles? It’s all in how much you want to tinker.
Sorry on my 4.0 by valve adj I meant just adding preload to lifters bc of wear over the years! It def eliminated the tick I had but it's just masking another issue my Zj wasn't daily driven!
I'd be wary of the lifter(s) being flat spotted. Many times that is the case and when that happens, it's time for a new cam and lifters.
I'd verify torque on the rocker arm (24 ft/lbs IIRC) and if the rocker is still loose, that lifter is no beuno.
Damn that's an exact picture of my 4.0. When it let loose... lol shit of it is that damn thing still ran after hole that size in block! I loaded on trailer and unloaded under own power sparks and really loud knocking did occur!
Damn that's an exact picture of my 4.0. When it let loose... lol shit of it is that damn thing still ran after hole that size in block! I loaded on trailer and unloaded under own power sparks and really loud knocking did occur!
A friend on mine in the automotive program at fayetteville tech had a 92 yj. He hydrolocked it in a mud hole on Ft Bragg. It looked just like that pic too. He was broke so we welded the crack on the other side of the block and welded a 1/4ĺ plate on the inside of the hole with a nickle rod. We did all the machine work in class for a grade and rebuilt the 4.0. Last I talked to him 3 years after graduation he was still driving it and had 30000 miles on it.
