think we oops an ARB install - who's an in house guru?

[Chuckman]

so we lost the instructions due to wind/rain Saturday doing my ARB install on a D60 full float chevy rear. looking at the instructions now, it looks like we put the ported oring seal dealy on wrong. looking online now, it should be axle tube, shims, ported seal with tube thingy, then bearings, then locker. but we installed it ported tube thingy, shims, then bearing/locker. It works, so if we only used 0.035" shims is it going to die? I drove it 2 hours with no incident so far. Does it need to come out/apart? At the time we couldn't see how we could catch the port on the locker unless we did it the way we did. the shims oriented the other way would've moved the ported seal body off of the hole. we did seat the shims in the ported body the way they should set - in the little grooves that hold them concentric. whats the real difference anyway, its all flat hardened steel against flat hardened steel and the bearing caps seat nicely with correct endplay and correct backlash.

 

[Jody Treadway]

I would also be concerned about carrier bearing preload if you did not use a housing spreader. It's pretty difficult to nail that down onan ARB install since you can't use typical methods.
If it were me, I'd have to take the carrier back out and install the shims in the proper location. Is your ARB a model where the shims are sandwiched between a master shim and the seal housing? If so, put them there with additional shims between the carrier and the carrier bearing for peace of mind.

Air leaks would be the least of my concerns. If the carrier shims worked out and you suddenly had a loss of preload and excessive backlash, rapid catostrophic damage is likely.