TJ Steering

Tradarcher

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Creedmoor, NC
My 97 steering is getting old and starting to tell me about it. Getting DW so going to go through it all and replace all TREs (still stock after 200k). Would you consider something like this: Crown Automotive RT21005 Heavy Duty Steering Kit for 97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ, Unlimited & 91-01 Cherokee XJ with Steering Damper
or maybe all MOOG parts from rockauto for about $30 more without steering stabilizer? I had planned to get another steering stabilizer and maybe new shocks too. Trac bar is in good shape and was replaced not too long ago. Has good tires that are round and well balanced. My son drives it most of the time and we have had little time to go to uwharrie so it will only see mild offroading about once a year. Has 33's and 2" suspension, lift locker in front.
 
I replaced the worn out stock steering on my mother's tj with that kit, I thought it was nice for the price, can speak of longevity

While your at it, check that track bar bolt at axle side isnt swallowed out or loose . IME this is the#1 cause of tj, xl,etc death wobble
 
Yup, figure out what's causing the DW, and go from there. Consider upgrading the "tie rod" part of the Y link that goes from the drag link to the driver's side knuckle because it's prone to bending (esp on the 4 cyl).
 
There's my death wobble problem. The noise is coming from a loose sway bar connection but this track bar is clearly loose.
 
Now to check the toe and straighten the steering wheel.
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Tradarcher said:
There's my death wobble problem. The noise is coming from a loose sway bar connection but this track bar is clearly loose.
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That may continue to be a problem. The hole in the track bar bracket shouldn't allow the bolt to wallow back and forth. Torque it and keep an eye on it.
 
Tradarcher said:
Looking at double sheer brackets now. Not sure which one is best.
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<shrug>

Cutting the factory bracket off is a major pain in the ass. Cyd's Jeep has the Currie track bar on it with a similar design, and it's been fine. I might go so far as to completely unbolt it and make sure all the mating surfaces are clean. I think the bolt is a 5/8" fine thread, so it can be tight as shit.
 
shawn said:
<shrug>

Cutting the factory bracket off is a major pain in the ass. Cyd's Jeep has the Currie track bar on it with a similar design, and it's been fine. I might go so far as to completely unbolt it and make sure all the mating surfaces are clean. I think the bolt is a 5/8" fine thread, so it can be tight as shit.
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And I’ve sheared that same 5/8 bolt on Daniel in the single shear setup on my TJ.
 
obullfish said:
And I’ve sheared that same 5/8 bolt on Daniel in the single shear setup on my TJ.
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Somebody else can do the math if they're so inclined, but I'm going to guess the shear strength of a single shear 5/8" UNF bolt is well over 20k. At those kind of loads, you're bending axle housings, bending axle-side track bar brackets, shearing the double-shear axle side bolt, bending the frame around the track bar bracket, etc.

More than likely, your bolt wasn't tight, didn't develop enough clamping force, and broke from being loose.

Keith1138 said:
I have the xj version on my jeep and it is pure beef

https://www.ironman4x4fab.com/product-page/tj-front-track-bar-system
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I'd check with Andy first. IIRC, he told me that his track bar needed more lift. Cyd's Jeep has 2.5" springs on it, and he said it would hit the diff cover. If you look at how his bracket is made, it hangs down a bit more than the Currie would, and the bar isn't eccentric at the joint either. I know hers will touch the diff cover on hard DS stuff with the Currie.
 
shawn said:
Somebody else can do the math if they're so inclined, but I'm going to guess the shear strength of a single shear 5/8" UNF bolt is well over 20k. At those kind of loads, you're bending axle housings, bending axle-side track bar brackets, shearing the double-shear axle side bolt, bending the frame around the track bar bracket, etc.

More than likely, your bolt wasn't tight, didn't develop enough clamping force, and broke from being loose.
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You forget about fatigue? Shane wheels the fuck out of stuff unlike some.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
Literally every fastener is subject to fatigue.
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Given the choice between "the fastener didn't develop sufficient clamping force and failed" vs "the fastener failed due to fatigue", you're going with the latter? If the bolt was reused a dozen times, I'd lean that way. But again, that probably would have shown up when the nut was tightened.

Post pictures of the bolt, we'll go from there. Otherwise, we're just taking turns posting dumb shit.
obullfish said:
You are a fucking idiot!
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Thanks! You too!
 
shawn said:
Given the choice between "the fastener didn't develop sufficient clamping force and failed" vs "the fastener failed due to fatigue", you're going with the latter? If the bolt was reused a dozen times, I'd lean that way. But again, that probably would have shown up when the nut was tightened.
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Considering I was there when it broke yeah, definitely going with bolt fatigue. Just because a single shear fastener is probably torqued doesn't mean its not susceptible to failure.

Bolts long gone so we can argue just to make noise.
 
Do the math on shear failure of a 5/8" 150ksi bolt and let me know what you come up with.
 
I did the math and got 20 full sends with side force from control arm bolts going missing.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
Jody Treadway said:
Especially if not properly torqued and/or reused too many times.
I think this is @shawn's argument.
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I don't really care if I "win" I just like seeing shawn act like he is the knower of all things and any one who disagrees is an idiot.

Shane drove his jeep from Asheville, no death wobbles. Which means the track bar had to be tight, or at least tight enough that there's no slop at the mount/joint.

shawn said:
Do the math on shear failure of a 5/8" 150ksi bolt and let me know what you come up with.
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I'm not breaking out my books to calculate a number for you to spout out about like it proves you know everything. Do that shit yourself.
 
Definitely not cutting the stock one off. Will have to get one that uses the existing mount like the Currie. It's $102 though. My trackbar is RE and the RE1611 is $75 and bolts on.
 
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