Torque Wrenches

SHINTON

SHINTON

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Location
Triad area of NC
Ok, so wanting to buy my first torque wrench, currently have mostly Craftsman tools as my garage stuff, but not bias.

Craftsman 0-75lb beam types are $25, 0-150 are $29.99

The kind you set the weight on start at $75 on sale and some of the digital ones are $150-200+

So my question is this....Beam vs "the other/newer" kind, is it worth the difference?

Not afraid to invest in a good tool if there is a good reason, but have heard of folks who hate the newer style knuckle busters?

Any other opinions on alternate modesl (Kubota, or high end / low end choices?)
 
What are you planning on doing with it? Definately get a clicker style in 3/8's and ft-lbs. Then a beam type in in-lbs. I've got beam types in 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" and clicker in 3/8" and 1/2. They all get used, but I would say go with 3/8's.
 
i agree. definatly get a click type in ft lbs. im guessing if your just now needing a torque wrench, you probably dont need to buy a $150 one. maybe later. i like my craftsman 3/8 ft lbs cliker a lot. i wrench all day, and it gets the job done. still accurate after 6 years, too.
 
Get the 0-150 clicker in 1/2" or 3/8". Depending on what size sockets you use most.

:beer:
 
What are your plans for the use of the tool ? Engine building ? gaer set up ?
different situations require a different style of tool.
for gear set up you want one with a scale (beam or dial) beam being one you can calibrate yourself ( bend the pointer )

For engine building and general torque setting, a clicker is nice.

I had a Craftsman, it built one engine and an axle, and then failed ( wouldn't click, no matter the setting, 1yr warranty and it was older by about 2 months, Screw Sears)

Check out BlueTool.com , many of the torque wrenches they sell are identical to Snap-On and at least half the price.

I bought one of the 0-150inlb dial torque wrenches a few years ago, $118 (then) Snap-On was over $300
 
This is for things like rebuilding the front end of my Land Cruiser, hubs, etc. I don't do much with engines, but another good example would be putting a valve cover on an engine or something.
 
i have a harbor freight torque wrench. tested it alongside my buddy's craftsman. both clickers. both read the same. for 14.99 on sale i'm not complaining.
 
I bought a cheap-o ft-lbs clicker at Wal-Mart for ~$40 and has served me well for lug nuts, water pumps, etc. I bought a cheaper Craftsman clicker in In-lbs for the same type of stuff. I figure it's better than just tightening until I think it's good which is what a lot of people do.

I do plan on buying a nicer one when I get another one, but the key thing about torque wrenches is you need to have it calibrated at least once a year, regardless of how much you spent on one.
 
Ok, for things like Valve covers, water pumps ,alternators, and fuzzy dice reatiner pins you need to be able to tighten by "feel"

When you get into "technical" applications is where torque starts to matter. But even said that, if you buy an elcheapo HF brand an it is off 1-3 ft-lbs, do you really think it will matter? I mean do you think a nut is good at 75 ft lbs but if it is 74 its coming loose?

Thats why I use my HF for just about everything, but I do have a Snap on ftlb and inlb in the box. They get broke out for rods, mains, and anything inside an ATS.

It should take a while but you should begin to get a feel for whats what. My point being dont buy a bling bling TW unless you NEED it. For most uses an el cheapo will work just fine.
 
SkyHiK5 said:
But even said that, if you buy an elcheapo HF brand an it is off 1-3 ft-lbs, do you really think it will matter? I mean do you think a nut is good at 75 ft lbs but if it is 74 its coming loose?
QUOTE]

And you'd be surprised at how many people go way past the torque with a clicker style

and even more surprised at how many dealer techs(or any tech for that matter) that don't even own torque wrenches!!

I just got the new snapon techwrench last week and it beeps and vibrates at the correct torque and then show you the actual torque you applied. It also has a gyroscope in it so it can show you the amount of degrees you turned the bolt cool stuff!!!
Click to expand...
 
Just thought I would let every one in on a little info I found a great help after putting sum tires on one day I was stopped by and old man that been working on stuff for years. Hes like sun y did you click that wrench 2 times I said just to make sure (u know alot of us do it or alot of people I have seen do it so he took me to a torque wrench testing station and said test your wrench I did then It was with 1/2 lbs of the setting he said thats fine he said now reset it and click it 2 times like you just did so I did and the 2nd test was 20 so pounds higher then the first one so long story but 2 do 2 clicks if its some thing that matters.
 
bmwboy said:
Just thought I would let every one in on a little info I found a great help after putting sum tires on one day I was stopped by and old man that been working on stuff for years. Hes like sun y did you click that wrench 2 times I said just to make sure (u know alot of us do it or alot of people I have seen do it so he took me to a torque wrench testing station and said test your wrench I did then It was with 1/2 lbs of the setting he said thats fine he said now reset it and click it 2 times like you just did so I did and the 2nd test was 20 so pounds higher then the first one so long story but 2 do 2 clicks if its some thing that matters.
Click to expand...


I think there may be a point in here but I cant decipher it.

If the point is double clicking a TW invalidates the measurement, Im not sure I agree.
 
My first TW was an HF cheapie. I'm the type that if there is a torque # listed....I torque it. So it was used a lot....I mean a LOT!
It lasted 4 plus years before it started to not feel right. Not bad for a $10.00 ( on sale ) wrench. I replaced it w/ the blingin' upscale model from HF....$19.99 on sale.
For the life of me, I can't tell the difference between it and the typical Craftsman TW I used a few years ago on a raceteam. They are identical.

Another vote for HF.


Matt
 
Well, I'm going to go against the grain a little bit. I think with alot of tools, you get what you pay for. I have and use a Snap-on 1/2" drive torque wrench and have used Craftsman and Matco torque wrenches before. Compared to the Snap-on, the Craftsman wrench felt really cheap (because it is). You must also consider accuracy. I seriously doubt if a Craftsman (or HF) torque wrench is accurate within 1-3 ft/lbs. It's probably more like + or - 10%-20%, depending on where you are in the range of the wrench. If you are only going to use it twice a year, buy a Craftsman or HF. If you are going to use it often and need it to be accurate, buy a quality tool. Again, this is just my .02
 
IMO, the smaller the torque value, the better the wrench needs to be.

The 75lb-ft on the knuckle studs on the cruiser axle? Harbor freight.
The small, in-lb settings for things like all the aluminum bits on the Aprilia get a better wrench, that I handle VERY carefully. Don't drop it.
 
the TW's that have the handle that spins up to set the rating kinda blow b/c if you leave them for a long period of time not on zero then they loose there calibration.
 
Rich said:
IMO, the smaller the torque value, the better the wrench needs to be.
The 75lb-ft on the knuckle studs on the cruiser axle? Harbor freight.
The small, in-lb settings for things like all the aluminum bits on the Aprilia get a better wrench, that I handle VERY carefully. Don't drop it.
Click to expand...

I agree.

On the same issue, where can I get mine recalibrated near Raleigh?

D
 
closest place I know of is actually in West Virginia, most places in this area send them there ( tool repair shop I used to work for did, and I don't think much has changed )

Any chance you know anyone who works for Gregory Poole? Or a CAT assembly plant in the area ?

They have the equipment to test and calibrate, but they will not certify, and it would pretty much be a buddy deal, it's not something they offer to the public.

If you send it out, expect to pay a min of $50.
 
dweymer said:
I agree.
On the same issue, where can I get mine recalibrated near Raleigh?
Click to expand...

No clue, my work has a Sypris come in once a year and calibrate all our stuff (including my personal wrenches).

I agree with the above comments about the smaller parts needing the better wrench. For big fasteners I use cheaper stuff, for the small parts I have an Armstrong dial-type and an Armstrong torquing screwdriver.
 
Gotcha, the main thing for the Cruzr front end is setting the bearings and then I will be looking for a "fish scale" to set the actual final setting according to the instructions.

I am sure there are other examples of proper torque in the front end rebuild I will be doing that one just stands out. On my D44 front end on BUG I did it by feel, but I also did not daily drive it and fully expected to have it apart again soon to regrease after water crossings, yet more broken u joints, etc.

Ok, so for now, it looks like a trip to Harbor Freight
 
More info

I'm sure most of you know this, but in my research bolt stretch is a much better indicator of force. But usually you can't get to both ends of a bolt. You use bolt stretch on things like connecting rod bolts.

As usual wikipedia has some good info, Wikipedia Torque Wrench, based on this article it says to leave your torque wrench on 20% of it's max setting and that's what I do.
 
JoshRountree said:
based on this article it says to leave your torque wrench on 20% of it's max setting and that's what I do.
Click to expand...

That's the first time I have heard this. I have always been told to completely unwind the handle, or put it on the lowest setting. Not saying that it is correct or incorrect, just new to me. :popcorn:
 
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