Toyota Questions

fryedaddy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Winston-Salem
I'm in the process of buying a 1990 Toyota for cheap. It has a newly rebuilt motor and trans. I know the toyotas are pretty strong but this one is on 33's. It has a three inch lift in the front and rear and a three incn body lift. It has a 2.4 four cylinder with stock gearing so it's pretty weak. I have a couple of questions. 1. Anyone know where I can get a set of gears cheap and have them installed in Winston. 2. It has IFS will this be weak for 33's? 3. I'm going to modify it heavily in the future any suggestions. I've had a 1983 Jeep Cj8 and built it from stock. I ended up with 302--C4 tranny-- D44 front and ford 9 in rear with a d18 transfer case with 35X15.50 TSL/SX tires and quite a bit of lift. I wish I never sold it but was offered to much money. I know alot about building jeeps but slim to none on toyota's. :driver: :confused:
 
You should be fine with 33's and the IFS. As for gears in winston-salem, try Bill Carver, www.44magnumoffroad.com or something like that. Another option for you that is much closer, I have a friend who's dad has the tools to do it with, and did the gears in both his front and rear axles, I can get you his number if you like.

Good thing you got away from those Jeeps :)
 
Check www.pbb.com there are usually some guys who sell the complete IFS usually locked for cheap because they went SAS.

I saw one a few weeks ago, 4.88 w/ Detroit for like $300
 
While gears are not a bad way to go, an alternative to gain some power ( that'll still be there when you do regear )

Longtube 4 into 1 header, high flow cat and 2.250" exhaust thru muffler of your choice with 2.250" tube out the tail.

dollar for dollar, this and a better breathing airfilter was the biggest boost in power in my '85 Runner. ( 22Re, 33's, stock gears ) even with the better cam, the header was the biggest differance.

My combo is LC Engineering header, generic larger dia Cat, 2.250" exhaust and a Flowmaster. I also have the LC EFI pro cam ( which I would not reccommend over the Engnbldr cam or DOA Racing C270, the LC cam is an improvment, but the DOA cam seems a little to have a little more tourqe, I have heard the same about the Engnbldr )

An alternative that could be done yourself ( for the most part ) and you can save your beans for gears and lockers.

Kevin
 
One more opinion........

I have a 93 Toyota extra cab with a 2inch body lift and around an inch to an inch and half of suspension lift. I was trying to do mods before gears to get some more pep. 1st was a LC Engineering header and 2.25 free flow exhaust system, almost exactly like the system on Kevins 4runner. It help pull long grades compared with the stock set up.

Next was a larger flywheel (30lbs.) and clutch from TRD, it help too but still not enough.

I even cut open the maf on the air box and whent 4 clicks richer and regapped my plugs a little hotter. That also helped some.

Last was gears, I went with 5.29's with the thought of 35's for my next tire size.


Gears by far (for me) where the biggest bang for the buck. I found a complete front 3rd on "pirate bb" with a lock right for 175.00, Then found a rear 3rd with a spool from a old member on this site for 225.00

Granted 5.29's and 33's suck ass on the highway but, they are great off road and for city driving.


Price break down:

Header/free flow exhaust = 489.00

New clutch and flywheel kit and rear main seal installed at toyota = 900.00

maf mod/spark plugs regap = freebie

Gears/locker/spool = 400.00


As far a strength goes with the IFS = YMMV, go easy and rember no flex and tight turns will break stuff. Also the idler arm is a little on the weak side but there are braces for it and a rebulid kit for the bushings are cheap.

There is a ton of info and parts to be had for the Toyotas. If I can get permission back to the old board and retrive some info i will put in the important info section.
 
I am in the process of building my 85 up, w/engblder.com head,cam, and rebuild kit at the present time, I allready have installed the LC header and planned on running the 5.29s, I didnt think there was but a couple hundred rpm's difference in them at hwy speeds vs the 4.88s. I had 4.88s in my 84, and just wanted lower still. I will probably go w/35s eventually. Any input on the 4.88s and 5.29s on a mainly non-daily driven truck, plays double duty pulling lightweight trailer w/2 atvs?
Later
Justin
 
Any input on the 4.88s and 5.29s on a mainly non-daily driven truck, plays double duty pulling lightweight trailer w/2 atvs?



"With 33 inch tires"
5.29's are weaker than 4.88's

5.29's are worse on the highway than 4.88's

5.29's will pull that trailer better than 4.88's off the line and up hills.

If it was my rig and that was how it was going to be used I would go 5.29's all the way!
 
Its still going to be my trail toy, how much of a difference is the smaller pinion going to make? Constant breakage? I know to stay away from the 5.7X
but I would have thought the 5.29s would be ok?
Justin
 
if you are willing to do the work your self, I think motor work is a real good way to go. I have about $600 in my motor(parts and out side labor)and that got me: new pistons ,boredover 40thou ,rebuilt rods ,high comprestion rings rebuilt head: full port,stainless steel taperd valves and guides. rebuilt carb. open exhaust and all the B.S taken off ;) It is going in mon. so we will see how it does.
 
5:29

Find a V6 third and put the 5:29's in it. Ring and pinion is almost twice the size of the 4cyl gears. It will fit in your housing and axles are the same.
 
Thanks for the advice, it will be a couple of months before I get the truck. I'm just trying to get some advice so I'll be ready for it. I might end up switching the front and rear out in lieu of d44 and ford 9" axles. Know of any problems? will there be any problems with the position of the transfer case and the yoke on the axle? I never had that problem with the jeep but I'll be tackling a whole differant animal. I think it will be fun working on something new. I'll need to study it to find the correct setup. I like the fact that it's going to be fuel injected and a 5 speed though.
 
I ran my '91 toyota with the stock 4.10 gears, stock 4 cyl. engine and 33's for a long time (1 year) with no problems, and the engine had 230,000 miles on it. It pulled 5th gear with no problem. Im still using 4.10 gears now with the SAS and 38's and the truck will pull 4th gear until you get on a good size hill. Just to give you an idea of how tough the toyota motors are.
 
dollar for dollar the best mod I ever did to my 84 was put in the bigger engine.
I went through the header cam exaust rebuilt engine re gearing thing with the four cyl and could have saved myself a lot of headaches if I had just went to the bigger engine first
I went with a 4.1 buick engine since it was what I had available

it cost me 750.00 for the adapter and flywheel
300.00 for the engine rebuild kit
125.00 for the radiator
and about 200 for the engine mounts and adapters for all my accessories
a/c, air pump, alt, p/s, and what not
the headers were 200.00
and the exaust cost around 400.00

I ran 4.88's in it for years hated them on the hyway they revved it bad
with the 4cyl but it pulled a trailer ok but with the v6 it pulls on really good now

I ran 4:10's for a year or so with the 4 cyl and it did ok except on the hills and stuff and hauling was not good since you have to ride the clutch so much
that was the reason I regeared. because I hauled a lot with the 4cyl. and I had put three clutches in it in a year and a half or so
On the highway it sucked. Around town gas mileage was around 13 mpg on the highway it was worse or about the same but I was usually hauling a trailer.
I went to a bigger engine it took about 2 weeks to install it taking my time
getting the radiator modded and then the exaust put on. the wiring was easy
installing the engine mounts was as simple as bolting on pcs
my only issues with this whole project was the alternator hitting the frame in the new location. was a simple fix with a shorter belt. if I could have found a r151f turbo transmission and transfer case. it would have saved me some of the adapter costs and got me a lower first gear but I went to a r150f transmission from a v6 just for availabilities sake. I like a stick shift. but you can go automatic as well

now with 35x15.5x15 tsl's, 4:56 gears, v6, 23 spline stock gear crawl boxes, it runs great on the street and the high way and around town and I still get around 13-14 mpg. but the most fun is when I get to wheel it the extra power is just a whole lot more fun and the crawl box gives me all the gear I need.

After spending thousands on the 4cyl and never being happy with it's power. cam header, exaust, gears, engine rebuild, and was still not satified with the power and when I checked into the cost of a lc engineering block and the head and the other power increasing mods the hp range was to be about 160 - 200 in a highly modified gas hog of a little engine with no more available unless i spent a whole lot more.

and with the cost of the new v6 engine, adapters, radiator, headers and, etc. I was in a cheaper price range with the v6 and and would get about the same hp from a stock engine. If I wanted I could build the v6 even stronger.

With the mods I've made, it's in the 180 to 200 area and if I want I can get still more out of it.

I would never go back to a 4cyl
not with the way I use my truck.
some highway, some around town, lots of hauling, and lots of wheeling.
on the highway I can run fifth gear no problem
around town I can have fun if I want
and on the trails I got all the power and all the gearing I ever need
my only complaint is the carbed engine I'll eventually go to a efi set up

my recommendations for a built toy goes like this

tbi or tpi vortech v6
th350 transmission/ adapter/ 23 spline crawl box, or r151f turbo tranny and t-case/ 23 spline crawlbox or
you'll have a lot of other choices for tranny t case set up as well
sas with minimal lift 3-5"
trimmed fenders
crawlbox & adapters
beefier axles of your choice D44 or D60
you'll have more power than you'll need to haul or tow and
the strength you'll need to put what ever sized tires on it you want
and to with stand any type of wheeling you want to throw at it
 
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