Trailer axles…

rockcity

everyday is a chance to get better
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Location
Greenville, NC
So now that I’ve got a dozer, I need a better way to transport it if needed.

Built a decent trailer last year out of 6” channel, so I’m pretty good on the frame. Just need to upgrade axles and suspension and tires to something that can handle a 12,000 lb dozer on occasion, locally.

I know there are some folks out there that are very informed with regards to trailer axles.

I’m looking at just the 7,000 lb axles. I can get a complete TK cambered axle with brakes and hubs for right around $1,000. The comparable Dexter is $1500. Why a 50% increase just for the dexter? 7 year warranty on TK and 5 year on Dexter. Both have easy lube spindles, electric brakes, 8 lug. The technical info provided doesn’t call out spindle or bearing sizes, so I’m unaware of those dimensions.

Are the 7,000 axles an upgraded hub and bearings of a 5200 lb axle? Or is it entirely different spindle and axle?

I’ve generally decided to not go with 8,000 or 9,000 axles as a pure cost stand point as it’s nearly triple the cost even though I realize I’ll be at the upper limit of capacity. Local and infrequent use has me determined a pair of 7,000 lb axles will be just fine. If I were hauling this daily and hundreds of miles away, then no doubt, I’d upgrade to a much heavier axle. So, basically no measurable ROI on the added costs of the larger set up.

I’m determined to get 17.5” tires and be well within the capacity of the tires for whatever I haul, regardless of the axles.
 
What spring/frame width?
 
Dexter difference being the name? Never heard of the TK brand. Don't shop often. Tripple or dual? Deck over? Pintle? Or I'll just sub if this will be a build thread, lol.
 
Can’t remember frame width but it’s standard car trailer width. When I built the trailer, I copied width from my car trailer I robbed the axles from.

Not a deck over. Two axles. Tag trailer that I’ll end up installing a heavier duty 2 5/16” coupler than the one I have on there currently.


Oh, and I regularly haul my F350 IDI dump truck (9,200 lbs) with the trailer without any frame flex or hauling issues, so a couple thousand lbs more shouldn’t be an issue aside from making a couple of decent ramps to handle the dozer. I may have to make new fenders depending on spread of axles with new suspension.
 
I think the issue would be weight of the trailer subtracted from capacity of the axles. That's usually my limit, but like I told you, I should still be good to 13k (on the axles) if my trailer REALLY weighs 4k like the certificate of origin says from Kaufman. I want to weigh it one day just so I know.


It'd be sweet if they had a 10k axle that was more suited for single 17.5 use instead of duals of either the 16" or 17.5" variety.

They do make 8k axles and that's what my trailer has. Although, from what I understand, the "8k" that Kaufman uses is more of a modified 7k axle. I think @jeepinmatt can expand on that. Either way, they've done well for me. So for no further than you'd ever really need to move it, you'd likely be alright. As you said, the tires are the kicker.

Can you post some pics of the trailer? If it's the one I saw, it was dark and I didn't get a good look.

These are (or pretty close to) the ones I have. I didn't compare the part numbers because I was feeling lazy.


And here's some pics from under the trailer. The front of the trailer is to the left in the picture of the axles and springs. It's your standard slipper spring/equalizer setup. Of course, the next one is the tag on the axle. The last one shows the 6" channel that's doubled all the way to the front axle mount. The neck is 8" channel, but won't apply in your case.

With the 17.5s, just make sure you get the right rims, lugnuts, and hub bore to match the axle hubs. 7k axles are ½" studs and usually use a conical lugnut. An 8k will have 9/16 OR ⅝ studs and a good hub shoulder for the rim to sit on and will use a flanged nut as they are entirely hub centric when used with 17.5s. They do make 17.5" rims and matching lugnuts to run on 7ks though. Mine are ⅝ studs and flange nuts.

20180323_193428.jpg


20190917_184958.jpg


20210904_133022.jpg



Hope some of that helped!
 
Last edited:
I think the issue would be weight of the trailer subtracted from capacity of the axles. That's usually my limit, but like I told you, I should still be good to 13k (on the axles) if my trailer REALLY weighs 4k like the certificate of origin says from Kaufman. I want to weigh it one day just so I know.


It'd be sweet if they had a 10k axle that was more suited for single 17.5 use instead of duals of either the 16" or 17.5" variety.

They do make 8k axles and that's what my trailer has. Although, from what I understand, the "8k" that Kaufman uses is more of a modified 7k axle. I think @jeepinmatt can expand on that. Either way, they've done well for me. So for no further than you'd ever really need to move it, you'd likely be alright. As you said, the tires are the kicker.

Can you post some pics of the trailer? If it's the one I saw, it was dark and I didn't get a good look.

These are (or pretty close to) the ones I have. I didn't compare the part numbers because I was feeling lazy.


And here's some pics from under the trailer. The front of the trailer is to the left in the picture of the axles and springs. It's your standard slipper spring/equalizer setup. Of course, the next one is the tag on the axle. The last one shows the 6" channel that's doubled all the way to the front axle mount. The neck is 8" channel, but won't apply in your case.

With the 17.5s, just make sure you get the right rims, lugnuts, and hub bore to match the axle hubs. 7k axles are ½" studs and usually use a conical lugnut. An 8k will have 9/16 OR ⅝ studs and a good hub shoulder for the rim to sit on and will use a flanged nut as they are entirely hub centric when used with 17.5s. They do make 17.5" rims and matching lugnuts to run on 7ks though. Mine are ⅝ studs and flange nuts.

View attachment 386172

View attachment 386173

View attachment 386174


Hope some of that helped!


Here is the trailer. 6” channel front to back with 4” channel cross members at 30” on center. And used 4” channel under the 6” channel frame from front axle up to the tongue and doubled up another 4” channel on the tongue for an 8” tall tongue.

Frame is 82.5” outside to outside, so an 80” centerline measurement on suspension/mounting on axles would work well with minor modifications to the frame.

I do need to make suitable ramps but have enough random/scrap 4” channel to make whatever I need.
05BA4AE8-4D82-4F74-ADD2-03A828E834E6.jpeg
 
In my Adderall fueled dive in to looking at axles earlier, most of the 8ks were standard with 9/16 and it took a little more digging to find replacement drums with ⅝ studs. I thought I was going crazy for a second until I finally found some.

The prices definitely make me want to take really good care of all of my trailer parts!
 
Here is the trailer. 6” channel front to back with 4” channel cross members at 30” on center. And used 4” channel under the 6” channel frame from front axle up to the tongue and doubled up another 4” channel on the tongue for an 8” tall tongue.

Frame is 82.5” outside to outside, so an 80” centerline measurement on suspension/mounting on axles would work well with minor modifications to the frame.

I do need to make suitable ramps but have enough random/scrap 4” channel to make whatever I need.
View attachment 386175


I think that'll hold :D It seemed bigger in the dark 🤣
 
😅

I just thought it sat up higher off the ground. I also didn't see how heavy it is aside from the tongue.
 
Back
Top