Transfercase, Alxe, Etc. Problems!! Please Help!!

s.hiles

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Location
Apex, NC
Im Kinda new to the self modification part of jeeping. ive had my jeep for 4 years now and put on my lift, swapped in a 4.0 liter out of a newer jeep, by the way mine is a 1988 YJ 4 inches of lift and more stuff. Recently i purchased a dana 300 to put in it then realized i needed to flip it so i started and almost finished my own flip kit for it when i realized how am i going to put this in 4wd?? becuase i have the vaccum 4wd thing instead of lock out hubs cause its a dana 30. Then i was just going to get an axle out of a cherokee and completely get rid of the vacum but then my front drive shaft will spin all the time and i really dont want that cause i will be driving on the road with my jeep too. So then i found a buddy of mine with a dana 44 and was thinkin about puttin that in the front instead of the 30 cause is has lock out hubs and alot stronger. plus i wouldnt need the flip kit cause it is passenger side drop. So im under my jeep working on taking the intake and exhuast off because i also purchased headers, lunati cam, lifters, springs and such and i realized my exhuast runs dwn my passenger side and that would be were my drive shaft is going and since i got long tube headers i cant use them so i think im just gunna send those back and get shorties but im not sure yet hahah. If i got shorties i think i could just run it down the drivers side most of the way and run it back over to the passenger side after the rear drive shaft and run it back i think. i know im throwin alot out there but this all just hit me and im really confused haaha.

So when i started tear my jeep apart i had the original plans of installing the dana 300 flipped, stock axles (which both have ox lockers), headers, cam, a shackle reversal in the front and longer shackles in the back to lift maybe another inch or so, then put a 1 inch body lift and fit 36s or 37s, as of now 35s with cut fenders.

Now im really confused and not sure at all what im going to do and kinda frustrated cause my jeeps in peices lol. Just wanted some people thoughts on what i should do? I really want the dana 44 cause i know the dana 30s really weak and people wonder how i havnt broken yet. yea but just thought on the whole thing would be very helpful
 
i wish i could help you out on some of you'r problems but i think i'm more confused than you are.the one thing i do know though is going to 44's is a step in the right direction,especialy for the rear because the dana 35 in the rear is junk.however keep in mind up to 35'' tires you'r fairly safe but when you start going bigger than 35's you start pushing it a little bit.much of it depends on you'r driving style.also the dana 30 is a fairly stout little axle.the 44 is of course stronger but not as much as you might think.if you do only mild wheeling and stay with the 35's it would be fine.
 
Settle down, and address 1 problem at a time. Don't forget to breath because you are of no use blacked out.:lol::lol: Your changes all sound really good but your planning lacks thought. Before attacking these projects that sounds like your plenty capable of completing. Ask some questions and check out some treads to see what other people have done.
As far as you D30 could always install lock outs and a manual(cable) diff lock. But a 44 would be better and 1 tons would be great(which it sounds the way your headed).
Exhaust could be ran with fender exit headers and you would free up alot of frame space or take it to a muffler/weld shop after you make your changes and have them route the exhaust around your add ons. Good luck s.hiles and post some pics of your rig.:popcorn:
 
witchdoctor said:
also the dana 30 is a fairly stout little axle.the 44 is of course stronger but not as much as you might think.
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yeah i have a dana 35 in the rear but it has the upgraded spline ox lockers with USA Alloy Axles so its kinda strong, im not really worried about it, but you are the first person ive heard say the 30 was strong, everone i talk to says it sucks and are very suprised its not broken yet.

I think im def use the 44 for the front, I already have a 44 for the rear but theres no need for me to change it plus if i do i would have to buy gears and cash is short right now lol. If i do the 44 im gunna just get a spool or weld it until i get a detriot or arb for it. Then i would put the 44 for the rear in but thats in the possible distant future
 
I agree that you should really do a lot more "prior planning" and walk yourself through the entire process which includes a lot of research and reading. But I am sure you have learned that by now :lol:
1) assuming you swapped in a 23 spline 231 TCase with your 4.0, I would find a driver drop D44 (they are all over) and put it in the front, install header and go wheelin.
2) If you are dead set on the D300 and passenger drop. Send header back and run stock manifold (you will never know the difference in power)
3) Don't weld the front, you will regret not being able to turn on the trails. Put a lock Right in it.
4) flip the D300 and make a posi lock cable to actuate your D30.
 
I wanted to steer away from using my d30 cause people tell me it is to weak to run 37s or 38s which is eventually want i want to do. Thats why i wanted to use the d44 in the front, but prior planning is what i really need to do before i start throwin money out there again haha
 
s.hiles said:
I wanted to steer away from using my d30 cause people tell me it is to weak to run 37s or 38s which is eventually want i want to do. Thats why i wanted to use the d44 in the front, but prior planning is what i really need to do before i start throwin money out there again haha
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if you are even thinking about 38's you might as well put a dana 60 up frount to start with.the reason i say that is you are really pushing the limits of a 44.you can beef it up but by the time you put all that money into it you will pretty much have the strenth of a stock 60 or fairly close anyway. these projects never end so you might as well do it right the first time. running a dana 44 with 38's is about the same as the dana30 with 35's. i don't think that even with the upgrades in you'r rear 35 that it will hold up to anything bigger than 35's. there known to bend axle tubes with much abuse.
 
FWIW, I ran 37x14.5's on a D30 for some time and never broke anything. I now have a Rubicon D44 not much better than the D30 and have flogged it for almost four years.
Getting rid of your vacuum disconnect by putting in a one piece axle shaft will not cause you any problems, unless you weld it up. That is how all the TJ's and ZJ's are as well as later model Cherokees. It won't harm anything since effectively you will be upgrading to the later design. We just did this for a friend of mine's YJ and I've had friends do it in the past with no problems.
 
so i was talkin to a buddy of mine today and he said he has a set of axles, manual trans and transfer case out of a 1980 sumthin f250 i can get for dirt cheap. Im guessing they are full width which i kinda wanted. Anyone know what axles are in it? are they worth my time?
 
Sounds like you know you want to upgrade, but have no idea what you want to upgrade to. You need to stop floundering, sit down, and make some decisions (then don't change them in the middle of your build).

That F250 should have a dana 60 rear and dana 44 front, I think. The front axle will be driver's side drop. BTW, buying the axles is the cheap part. Building them to go in your rig is where it gets expensive.

Plan the work and work the plan. :driver:
 
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