transmission/doubler/t-case mounting

sharksanddanger

sharksanddanger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Location
Reidsville
With my new project I've got to make some new mounts for my tranny, doubler and atlas. I've been researching quite a bit and the general idea is poly on the motor, poly on the tranny/t-case or rubber on the motor and rubber on the tranny/t-case. I'm going to build solid motor mounts with poly bushings and then I've got a poly mount from another truck that I think I may use for the tranny/t-cases.

This is my question. I'm afraid that with too many mounts I'll be breaking bellhousings or worse so I'm thinking about building a mount that bolts to the atlas and also to the bottom the tranny then centering the poly mount that I have dead center between the two. So I would have, two poly mounts on the motor, one on each side, the tranny and t-cases bolted together solidly bolted to a poly mount on a crossmember that bolts to the frame.

Ideas, thoughts, opinions?
 
I have a Jeep here with a similar setup. Running stock motor mounts for now, a regular bushing from Ruffstuff with his crossmember kit and a Atlas ring from Rowark rab works. The atlas ring supports the very end of the Atlas on the output. Ill post a pick of what we did later.
 
CarolinaTruggies said:
Oh, and I would run all poly or all rubber. Your setup should be fine.
Click to expand...

I've got an Roark atlas ring now but the whole setup is just so long and with the t-case e-brake it just doesn't fit in there so I'm going to go ahead and sell it.

I think I'm going to take a closer look at it and see about building a mount to bolt them together then add a mount in the middle.
 
i think that tying the transfer case and doubler together in one mount is a good idea... I think the 1 mount in the middle of it will make it react differently then 2 mounts at the frame though... The extra possible twist it'll be able to have will either allow it to flex better with the engine, or itll allow too much movement and break the tranny...

a pic would deff help...
 
I have no idea if it will hold up, but I went through a similar dilema.

I mounted my engine with poly bushings(in DOM), and then made similar mounts for my transmission and doubler, keeping all the mounts in the same plane and same material.

My transmission mount also mounts to my 203, so the trans and 203 are tied together by a single mount but share poly bushings at the frame.

Kinda like this:

ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_Mydrivetrainmounts.jpg
 
TheGriz said:
I have no idea if it will hold up, but I went through a similar dilema.
I mounted my engine with poly bushings(in DOM), and then made similar mounts for my transmission and doubler, keeping all the mounts in the same plane and same material.
My transmission mount also mounts to my 203, so the trans and 203 are tied together by a single mount but share poly bushings at the frame.
Kinda like this:
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_Mydrivetrainmounts.jpg
Click to expand...

So your tranny and t-cases are just bolted to the x-member and the only bushings you have are at the frame side?

I have considered this route as well, bolting it together in one mount but mounting that mount to the frame in 4 spots with poly bushings.

I'll snap a picture in a day or two when I make it back over there and try and put my paint skills(or lack there of) to work.
 
I've tried to think this through MANY of times since my 2 doubler builds haven't got this far yet. But seems to me that the stresses would be more the further away from the center they are? Trying to look at this as simple as I can, I imagine 2 straight frames on each side twisting. The very front will twist one way while the rear will be the other. And with everything in the middle connected, it seems the best places to mount would be the middle? I've heard before to mount the motor on stock rubber with a poly tranny mount. That is because the front end is usually more subject to twist with the cab stabilizing the middle but still allowing everything to give. But each rig is different so maybe flex it out before deciding what goes where?
Or just brace the frame so much that there is no flex and the options can be unlimited?:flipoff2:
 
6BangBronk said:
I've tried to think this through MANY of times since my 2 doubler builds haven't got this far yet. But seems to me that the stresses would be more the further away from the center they are? Trying to look at this as simple as I can, I imagine 2 straight frames on each side twisting. The very front will twist one way while the rear will be the other. And with everything in the middle connected, it seems the best places to mount would be the middle? I've heard before to mount the motor on stock rubber with a poly tranny mount. That is because the front end is usually more subject to twist with the cab stabilizing the middle but still allowing everything to give. But each rig is different so maybe flex it out before deciding what goes where?
Or just brace the frame so much that there is no flex and the options can be unlimited?:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

^^^yep^^^ Otherwise you are using the drive train to keep your frame from twisting.
 
When you use the poly bushings, there isn't a whole lot of flex in the bushing.

In my case, my factory frame is quite short and has two solid cross members and a crap load of tube work solid mounted (it's mostly a buggy).

The 205 casing is solid and the crossmember under my tranny is a solid piece from rail to rail. They will in fact reduce the frame twist and add stress to the drivetrain, but the mass of tube work alone should add more rigidity than the twist that my drivetrain will induce on the frame.

I have no concerns about my frame twisting.

Based on that input, my situation isn't as applicable to sharks. It sounds as though the preferred method is the centered mount.
 
TheGriz said:
When you use the poly bushings, there isn't a whole lot of flex in the bushing.
In my case, my factory frame is quite short and has two solid cross members and a crap load of tube work solid mounted (it's mostly a buggy).
The 205 casing is solid and the crossmember under my tranny is a solid piece from rail to rail. They will in fact reduce the frame twist and add stress to the drivetrain, but the mass of tube work alone should add more rigidity than the twist that my drivetrain will induce on the frame.
I have no concerns about my frame twisting.
Based on that input, my situation isn't as applicable to sharks. It sounds as though the preferred method is the centered mount.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info guys. My frame is fully boxed and I will be adding some more crossmembers for strength but I think I will still have some flex. I guess I'll just go with a center mount.
 
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