Truss

I talked to a guy at TNT and he told me to set the axle at 5degrees and the truss at 0. When I get it set like that it looks way off compaired to the stock mounts.
 
We put on on Gavan's D44, don't know the mfg. but we had to grind some to fit how were where running it and trim the ends down to clear purches etc.. nothing that the band saw and 5min of grinding didn't fix.. Regardless the truss should be straight up what ever your axle is set to. Good Luck
 
Thanks guys for the info so far. Hopefully I will have all of the grinding done and be ready to weld this up this weekend or the first of next week. I will leave this up for further comments and info thanks
 
I think I would set the axle in place and check/weld the perches first then mark the truss.
 
You have a pic of this thing? I couldn't find one on their site. Is this for the front axle? If so what they guy at TNT told you sounds right. You will need to set your caster first and foremost(I'm assuming this is what he means with the 5 degrees), then put the truss on. Depending on your setup, this may make for a crappy pinion angle. This is why people end up having to cut and turn knuckles.

Either way, some pics of the truss, and your current situation would really help people help you.
 
I talked to a guy at TNT and he told me to set the axle at 5degrees and the truss at 0. When I get it set like that it looks way off compaired to the stock mounts. So my question is, Is there a standard setup for the truss under an XJ as far as setting the pinion angle and setting the truss. When I set the pinion at 5 degrees like they said the axle looks right as far as pinion angle and the c's are straight up like my stock axle, but when I put the truss at 0 degrees it looks like it's too far back and this will through the pinion angle off when it's mounted under the jeep. The truss is full length from c to c and the coil buckets mount on top of the truss. The ends where the coils mount are set on a slight angle.
 
Sounds like you're measuring the pinion angle when you should be measuring the caster angle at the knuckles. Did you clarify this with TNT?
 
Could I not set the axle on stands, get the caster to 5 degrees then check the pinion angle. Then I can make the decision if the knuckles need to be turned. I am using a LP waggy 44 and not a HP44. That is why I wanted info on setting up a TNT Waggy truss on a Waggy 44.
 
That is all separate of the truss. If your caster is off when your pinion angle is within it's working angle and you plan on driving on the street...you're going to have to turn the knuckles. Or live with a shitty pinion angle.

As long as you have adjustable control arms or long arms, this can all be adjusted after the truss is installed as long as it's welded in close enough.
 
One day next week I'll come over we'll get this knocked out. I think we"re going to have to get some rods and cut the Cs off. Hell, if need be I'll go get the Deere. We'll get it done.
 
Still haven't got this thing done. I need to clock the c's back about 5degrees but it seems to be a lot of work involved in getting the c's off. Just wandering if it might be easier to drill the plug welds and turn the tubes.
 
KrawlDaddy520 said:
Still haven't got this thing done. I need to clock the c's back about 5degrees but it seems to be a lot of work involved in getting the c's off. Just wandering if it might be easier to drill the plug welds and turn the tubes.
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It's not.
I think you're putting too much thought into pinion angle. Put the caster where it needs to be and run it.
 
Is this going to be a street driven truck or trail only?

If its trail only and you can get it close to correct castor and pinion angle is within reason, i'd run it. If you do have to cut the inner knuckles off and rotate them its not the end of the world but it will take some time.
 
Right now it is my DD and with 7.5 inches of lift it is all over the road. The caster is at 0 like it sets and I want it to be as drivable as possible because right now it sucks.
 
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