Trying out my new Fox shocks

Im running the same shocks.. More oil will help with the unloading, mine were VERY soft with the factory oil in them. I drained them all and put 420cc's in them and it helped out a lot. Something to think about.
 
i'm looking at getting some for a custom build...how hard was it to messure and get the right height shocks and springs?
 
To get rid of the "gangsta lean" (at least for us)

#90 on rebound and #30 on compression
1 hole pistons
full-up with oil
180psi on the nitrogen

This was on a 2500 lbs WEROCK Unlimited buggy.

It makes the shocks a little "slower" to react, but it helps with lean and stopped weird "bouncing" we had when fully gettin it on uphill climbs.

Fox shocks are good, but they take alot of time and tuning to get them "great"

Good luck with them

gavan
 
ohv_kj said:
i'm looking at getting some for a custom build...how hard was it to messure and get the right height shocks and springs?
Click to expand...

Length is pretty easy. I have done it two ways:

1. Design suspension, build suspension.

2. Figure out mounting points.

3. Measure distance from mounting points in both bump and droop

4. Take your numbers and refer them to a shock length chart.




OR

1. Buy what you think is close

2. Move mounting points and modify suspension till they work


Spring rate is another story. With Airshocks there is no spring rate. They have no springs. What they have is an oil volume, nitrogen charge, compression and rebound shim packs and a valve.

All four of these things are adjustable and they combine to provide both the ride height and the "spring rate".

Coilovers have springs, but that is a much bigger story.
 
jph0913 said:
Poly performance has a decent setup, and I ordered the oil from them.
Click to expand...

We used Honda fork oil because its what we could find when we re-did them. No differences we could tell. You can get fork oil in a number of viscositys - as if you didn't need ANOTHER variable in tuning the bastards.
 
I found out after the doughnut that the passenger side sway bar arm had stripped all the teeth so I was not getting any resistence from the sway bar. The arms are aluminum. I now have steel arms. Yea, tunning the shocks has been a challenge.
 
good times - we have stripped an AL arm or two.


If the shocks are set up well, you shouldn't _need_ a sway bar, but of course it helps. We used a sway in the first buggy, and designed it out in the second. It would help, but good shock tuning has almost eliminated the need for one. I look at it as one less thing to break. I defiantly wouldn't drive at speed on the street without one...
 
Gavan,
I may need to get you to help me get things adjusted. I am currently doing some body and electrical work, so as soon as that is complete I would like for you to come over and give me some advice. I live in North Raleigh. Send me a pm of your email or phone #.
 
Cuz1,
I like your "break in" method, but I think mine is better... we will call mine a "broken" method. LOL!
 
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