Upper Control Arms

Depends on the room available, I usually use 1.75x.120 but have used 1.5x.25 and 1.375x.188 because I had it and needed some clearance.
 
Guess the next question anyone got a few feet of 1.75 .25 that they would sell me? Hate to buy a whole stick. Probably need 4 or 5 feet total. Will measure once it stops raining. I can order precut stuff on web but might as well get a whole stick for the price of a 4ft stick on the web. THe joints I have coming are 1" threads so looks like best option in the 1.75 .25 tubing to get the weld in inserts.
 
Race City Steel is your best bet for less than 6 foot lengths. 1.75x.25 really isn't a common size but they should have it. You would've been cheaper off going 7/8 joints and 1.75x.120 which is most common for upper links.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
Race City Steel is your best bet for less than 6 foot lengths. 1.75x.25 really isn't a common size but they should have it. You would've been cheaper off going 7/8 joints and 1.75x.120 which is most common for upper links.
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Already have the 1in joints.
 
You are that guy that ask for advice, and then argues with the advice because you want to do it your way, and you had your mind made up before you asked.

Don’t be that guy. Nobody likes that guy.
 
It can be poop pipe. So long as it's at least 1.5" OD and .120 wall, it'll be fine.
 
I recommend the following,

8" sch80 pipe for the upper and lowers, TS joints will be fine.
Then, an LS-1 with a blower and nitrous!

OH SHIT, wrong thread.....
 
77GreenMachine said:
You are that guy that ask for advice, and then argues with the advice because you want to do it your way, and you had your mind made up before you asked.

Don’t be that guy. Nobody likes that guy.
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Not being that guy. Going to use 1.75 .25o wall. Was just saying I had 1.5 .120 wall if it would be OK? Sonce consensus is it needs to be heavier i will go heavier.

Have not asked for advice on here too many times.

Other question is 3 or 4 link? It is offroad only. It is licensed but rarely sees road. Mainly around places like uwharrie or potts mountain where it is slow speed.
 
I would say 3 link simply because I doubt there’s room for a true 4 link. Also unless you go full hydro your steering would limit many of the benefits of a 4 link.
 
tsconver said:
Not being that guy. Going to use 1.75 .25o wall. Was just saying I had 1.5 .120 wall if it would be OK? Sonce consensus is it needs to be heavier i will go heavier.

Have not asked for advice on here too many times.

Other question is 3 or 4 link? It is offroad only. It is licensed but rarely sees road. Mainly around places like uwharrie or potts mountain where it is slow speed.
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You don't know what you're building, but you've already decided on the required size of your link material?
 
77GreenMachine said:
I would say 3 link simply because I doubt there’s room for a true 4 link. Also unless you go full hydro your steering would limit many of the benefits of a 4 link.
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I have hydro assist. Will be using the factory upper mounta on the body. So it will still have a trackbar.
..
 
shawn said:
You don't know what you're building, but you've already decided on the required size of your link material?[trackball.
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shawn said:
You don't know what you're building, but you've already decided on the required size of your link material?
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I did talk with Clayton about it. They suggested the 1in joints so that isnwhat I am using. So that dictates to some extent the tubing based on what weld in inserts are available.

They use square tubing for theirs.
 
tsconver said:
I have hydro assist. Will be using the factory upper mounta on the body. So it will still have a trackbar.
..
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Are you talking about your lowers will be on the clayton long arm cross member and your 3 link upper at the factor WJ upper arm mount on the body? I hope not 'cuz. Going to need to add the 3rd upper link above your clayton lower arm mount to articulate correctly.
 
tsconver said:
I have hydro assist. Will be using the factory upper mounta on the body. So it will still have a trackbar.
..
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Have fun with that, factory upper mounts are not strong enough for a 3 link.

tsconver said:
I did talk with Clayton about it. They suggested the 1in joints so that isnwhat I am using. So that dictates to some extent the tubing based on what weld in inserts are available.

They use square tubing for theirs.
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Yeah and they're also the guys that build links with rh bungs on both ends totally defeating the purpose of a adjustable link.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
Have fun with that, factory upper mounts are not strong enough for a 3 link.
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Good catch. If I'm following along correctly, it sounds like the lowers are going to effectively be long arms, and the uppers are going to be stock-ish.

thats-a-bold-strategy-cotton-lets-see-if-it-pays-39097069.png


He might be talking about the upper track bar mount, but we're also up in the air about whether it's going to be a 3-link or 4-link, so who knows.
 
Yeah that’s what I’m reading. You’re talking about running a 5 link. A true 4 link does away with the track bar because the triangulation stops side to side movement.

What you’re trying to do, would only give minimal improvement, and potentially induce tons of wheel hop. I would stick with a good 3 link, but don’t use any factory mounts.
 
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OP, you're wayyyy better off keeping the radius arm setup you have now.
Respectfully, I think you're a bit ahead of yourself with thoughts of 3 linking off the OEM mount (s). Both in terms of functionality and engineering.
If you are heartset on it, plug the info into the link calculator online and see where that upper needs to go regarding length and angularity. Then make an appropriate mount for it. Truss the front diff as whatever side the mount is on, that tube will wanna spin in the center.
Then....
Get the idea?
 
Jody Treadway said:
OP, you're wayyyy better off keeping the radius arm setup you have now.
Respectfully, I think you're a bit ahead of yourself with thoughts of 3 linking off the OEM mount (s). Both in terms of functionality and engineering.
If you are heartset on it, plug the info into the link calculator online and see where that upper needs to go regarding length and angularity. Then make an appropriate mount for it. Truss the front diff as whatever side the mount is on, that tube will wanna spin in the center.
Then....
Get the idea?
Click to expand...


Will do. The axle is trussed and tubed already.

Just a lot if binding right now with my current radius arms at full droop. Was wanting to eliminate that with a 3 link.

Will keep the lower arms from the Clayton long arm set up. I will see if I have the room to move the upper arms from the factory mount and do a custom mount.

It will still use a trackbar. Just seeing what I can do since I have most of the components already.

Would removing the passenger side radius arm and just running radius on one side fix the binding. Similar to what iron rock offroad does with their long arm setup?
 
tsconver said:
Would removing the passenger side radius arm and just running radius on one side fix the binding. Similar to what iron rock offroad does with their long arm setup?
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Probably. The driver's side arm might bend, though. I don't know enough about the Clayton arms to say how strong they are. But it's not uncommon to bend a y-style radius arm when it's the only one on the axle. You usually have to add a bunch of plate to it to increase the section depth. Think about something along the lines of a fabricated trailing arm.
 
shawn said:
Probably. The driver's side arm might bend, though. I don't know enough about the Clayton arms to say how strong they are. But it's not uncommon to bend a y-style radius arm when it's the only one on the axle. You usually have to add a bunch of plate to it to increase the section depth. Think about something along the lines of a fabricated trailing arm.
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The claytom radius arm is square and 2 in. I doubt it will bend. The mounts are heavy plate as well.

I am open to suggestions. I am leaving some droop on the table as it binds up before the shocks reach full extension.
 
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