Welder question

guffey24

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2006
Location
Hendersonville, NC
Well it started off like this

I have a Clarke 180 EN mig welder, I have welded 1/4" plenty of times, it started making a louder noise than normal, now on the highest setting it wont penetrate 3/16th's, just bubbles it up around the metal with little to know penetration

also the ground wire on the inside got so hot it melted the plastic around the encased nut holding the ground wire on

any ideas, things to look for

appreciated
 
I assume your wires are tight on the polarity posts? And they're on the right polarity for the wire youre using?

I used to have that same welder and had to replace the wirespeed potentiometer (with one from a radio) as it got really jumpy and would speed up/slow down whenever it felt like it. Might pull the circuit board out and take a look at it. Took a couple days for me to figure out that problem, there is hardly any information or replacement parts for these things online at all.

That welder was stolen a couple years ago though... yours doesn't happen to have a wire speed control that has no knob does it Josh? :)flipoff2:)
 
I assume your wires are tight on the polarity posts? And they're on the right polarity for the wire youre using?

I used to have that same welder and had to replace the wirespeed potentiometer (with one from a radio) as it got really jumpy and would speed up/slow down whenever it felt like it. Might pull the circuit board out and take a look at it. Took a couple days for me to figure out that problem, there is hardly any information or replacement parts for these things online at all.

That welder was stolen a couple years ago though... yours doesn't happen to have a wire speed control that has no knob does it Josh? :)flipoff2:)

nope, it has been a good welder, I am thinking something is wrong on the circuit board

yeah I switched the knobs on the polarity wires and now I have 2 melted plastic knobs

I found a good parts supply for them, just gotta find out what is wrong
 
if you contact them......clark may send someone to look at it for diagnosis

Dude, if clarke sends someone out to service a 180 amp mig that'll be some of the best CS in the biz. Linc and Miller both have you take it to an authorized dealer, I have trouble believing that clarke is gonna send someone out to troubleshoot a home user machine...

The main transformer on my linc mig blew about 2 months ago and I had to take it to asheville to be replaced. All under warranty and free of charge but when I got it back it wasn't right.

I have to run really high wirespeed to prevent burnback and it just doesn't seem to be producing the same heat it used to. When I run speed slow enough to leave a good bead, it melts contact tips. Taking it back to a-vegas to get it acting right when I can find the time. Works for spot welding and non structural stuff though it makes an ugly bead...

Guffey, the heat is supposed to be at the end of your torch, not on the polarity knobs :flipoff2: I think the circuit board is the right place to be looking. Mine made different sounds right before blowing the main transformer and now sounds different and welds different.
 
Dude, if clarke sends someone out to service a 180 amp mig that'll be some of the best CS in the biz. Linc and Miller both have you take it to an authorized dealer, I have trouble believing that clarke is gonna send someone out to troubleshoot a home user machine...

The main transformer on my linc mig blew about 2 months ago and I had to take it to asheville to be replaced. All under warranty and free of charge but when I got it back it wasn't right.

I have to run really high wirespeed to prevent burnback and it just doesn't seem to be producing the same heat it used to. When I run speed slow enough to leave a good bead, it melts contact tips. Taking it back to a-vegas to get it acting right when I can find the time. Works for spot welding and non structural stuff though it makes an ugly bead...

Guffey, the heat is supposed to be at the end of your torch, not on the polarity knobs :flipoff2: I think the circuit board is the right place to be looking. Mine made different sounds right before blowing the main transformer and now sounds different and welds different.

Gonna pull it apart this weekend and see what it looks like
 
Long story

alright here is the deal

a loose connection on the polarity board caused the rectifier to go bad, which equals no penetration and burnt polarity knobs


Okay no problem warranty covers the rectifier for 10 years, the polarity board is gonna cost me like $45

here is the problem, clarke filed chapter 11 on January 8th of this year, so NO WARRANTY

the rectifier is gonna cost me like $130 plus $45 for the polarity board and shipping like $185 total

So know I am getting a little pissed, so the guy says calm down and let me give you this option. Since we filed chapter 11 we are depleting our inventory.

He asks me how much I paid for my welder, I bought it used he didnt know that, I told him around $600. He offers me the same welder I have, brand new in the box for $200 plus shipping, and then asks me how many I want because he has a building full

So here is the deal, I am gonna test the waters on this and see If my new welder actually shows up. If it does I will post the number to call for the welder, its a Clarke 180EN

Only negative so far is, no warranty on the new welder, and parts will be harder to find
 
I see the same welder on ebay for as little as $202 new. I'd save my money and get a hobart, lincoln, miller, esab or thermal dynamics since they are a little more solid, support wise.

Then again if they come out of bankruptcy like Kmart did, they bought Sears, it might be a good deal.
I'd call back and see if you can get it for a c-note inc shipping since they are so cheap on ebay.
 
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