Welding on cast iron / tractor needed

SHINTON

SHINTON

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Location
Triad area of NC
Thought I would just throw this out here as a general query. We have a couple parts on the bolts area where the front end loader on dads tractor put too much stress on the cast part and cracked it.

We are wanting to get those welded up and fixed / and then we will also be remounting the loader to spread the load over multiple points (maybe even NONE on those locations if needed / we can figure out how to)

What happened is the loader was braced under the belly and then to the front of the tractor to spread the load. But where the guy hooked in on the front was to the "bumper" which was really not strong enough. That put all the stress on those bolts which broke them (well cracked the cast/they were bolted into)

Anyway I know that welding on cast iron is really tough / an art form, but can be done. Hoping to find someone on here, or someone who KNOWS someone who can / has welded on cast iron before, etc.

Thanks in advance (Summerfield/Greensboro is where we are, and is our first choice, will travel more as needed)

Sam
 
Before my pappy got proficient at melting coathangers :lol:, he had the old man (Charlie) do all the welding for his shop... IIRC, they had NO problem doing anything he sent... magnesium, cast AL, CI, etc...

Charlie Rierson Welding CO
1542 Rankin Mill Road Greensboro, NC
(336) 621-4978
 
I know this guy named Bill Carver that has fixed more Heavy equipment than either of us could shake a stick at ;) I got his number if you don't. He does Mobile welding on the side now I think.
 
I wasn't sure if Bill was still in the area or not, yeah would like his number if he is still doing welding on the side!!

Sam
 
Some cast is pretty dense, some is pretty open and very hard to weld. On a tractor it's probably good stuff. Preheat, weld, slow cool or bury it in kitty litter or something. I'm sure someone will chime in with what kind of rods and such before long. Probably best to get that guy if it's not something you want to learn on.
 
How big are these parts? You need 99% ( @ 65$ a lb) some people use stainless rods as they have a high nickle content. nickle rods & preheat to about 400 Deg. Spread your weld area out/ don't weld to much in one spot before moving to the other side. Ping in between your welding to relieve the stress of the 2 different temps. Whenn finished re-heat entire work piece to 400 deg to normalize. then bury in sand or concrete powder for about 8 hours to cool as slow as possible.
 
What I have done is use a Rose bud torch and get it glowing hot, then arc weld it with a stick welder. but i am not a pro welder it is just what has worked good for me.
 
Hey Shinton

Hey Shinton, I was A welder for 16 years. I have welded plenty of cast iron. You can use, stainless, nickel, regular MIG welding, or special cast iron rods. Pre-heat is essential, also peen the weld between passes. An air chisel ( blunt tip), or needle gun will work better than hand peening. The idea is to really shove the weld down into the base metal. Just be careful the air from the air tool doesn't cool the weld, may have to deflect the air away. keep it hot with rosebud torch for at least 10 minutes after welding. Let cool slowly ( we used to use asbestos blankets to wrap around, & keep heat in). I have found Mig (indoors) to work well. I wont be able to come do the job though, as I don't get much time off from work. Not in welding field anymore.
 
I'm guessing if its equipment, like a tractor its a large piece more related to the super structure of the frame? If so good luck burying it in anything! None the less use preheat and use a back weld method where you skip an open section between welds. Use an 1/8 rod or larger and I prefer D/C Rev. polarity. Grind good bevels into all cracks if your able, through the root of the crack if possible. Move around some and do not over heat the part or allow to cool to much between innerpasses. Peening is assential and allows you to mechanically manipulate the "grain" or carbon in the metal by relaxing the stucture during cooling, done after cooling is useless to a point-it still needs to be hot so do it after every weldment. If its good equipment the cast should be of high quality ductlie iron and very weldable. Nickle 99 is the brand name of rod and the only one I'll use. Good luck, if you want to hire it out and will haul it to the Hickory area drop me a pm. If its very large at all you'll spend 100 dollars real quick like in just consumables.
 
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