What lift kit/tires for CJ-7?

danattherock

Active Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2009
Location
NC
I have a stock 81 CJ-7 that my folks bought new in 1980. I have owned it for the last 20 years but never had the money to fix her up. Now I have the money, but lack the insights as to fixing her up. The Jeep is in good mechanical condition. Takes 10-12 pumps on the pedal to fire her up, she idles rough for a few minutes, and has lost lots of power over the years. But she is mechanically sound and has no rust.

First thing I have in mind is an engine rebuild. Read where a new ignition/distributor, MC 2100 carb, etc.. would be good to do at the time of the motor rebuild. Any thoughts on this appreciated. Also, any suggestions on reputable shops to do the rebuild. I live in Rockingham but will travel if needed.

Secondly, I want a lift kit and bigger tires. Perhaps a 4" lift that will let me put some 33's under it. Don't know jack about lift kits. I want to keep the ride quality good. Heard lots of folks jack their rides up and have bad steering/handling issues. I want to avoid this. Don't mind spending money for a quality lift, just not sure what that is. Any shops recommended to do this. I have only heard of Galloways.

Lastly, seems many folks upgrade the gears, axles, drive shafts, and brakes when they get the lift kits and big tires. I know nothing of this. Any suggestions on what would be ideal would be appreciated. Again, any shops that do good work?

For my intended usage, I just want this Jeep to be more "beastly". Lots of sentimental value so I don't want to do too much to ruin her stock appearance. I want to get her tough enough where I can take her to Uwharrie on weekends and do some mild/moderate trail riding. Most the time I use her to take my kayak out fishing, or to shoot guns, simple stuff like that. I will try to attach a picture below.

Thanks for any and all thoughts.

Dan

afarm4.static.flickr.com_3351_3204982839_c5f27f0520.jpg
 
That rides pretty clean I was pleased with the 4" skyjacker lift on my cj5 nice smooth ride. If runnin the road and ure is all you have in mind then driveshaft and axle upgrades probably arnt needed.

At most I would go 4:11 gears and a locker in the back maybe one piece shafts for just in case
 
no i didnt have to even do a tranfer case drop depends on what kind of wheeling you do. my buddy he has a cj5 with the procomp lift and shackels and he had to do a tranfercase drop and a cv driveshaft because a cj5 is shorter. i would also recomend one piece axels or just welding the axel to the hub same diffence as one piece axels.
 
Thanks for the additional info Adam.

Anyone got any opinions on the Rubicon Express 4" kit? I have heard some good things about it, but know very little.
 
i run the re 4.5 " lift on my cj7 and have been happy w/it good street ride & good flex off road,do the conversion shackle so you can use wide springs in the front. i would def. put 1 piece axle shafts in the rear .the stockers wont like 33's. good luck w/it nice looking cj
 
Thanks for all the info so far. You guys have been a big help. Trying to educate myself a bit and I have a ways to go. So far, the only things I know that I want to do for sure is...

One piece axle shaft
upgraded U joints
ARB locker
MC 2100 carb
engine rebuild (mild overbore, cam, intake, and headers)
clutch replacement
3.73 gear (I use the Jeep on highway at times)
TFI/HEI upgrade

Still not sure on which lift kit. One question that remains, if I went with a 2.5 inch lift, what size tires could I go with. I am finding some conflicting info. From what I am reading, this may be the safer route to go and would maintain more of the stock appeal my CJ has. Also sounds like it may avoid a long list of possible problems with the higher lift kits. Any thoughts?
 
Look at BDS lifts...they are a little more but the springs carry lifteime no questions asked warranties....if one corner sags in 4 years they will replace 'em.
Or if you manage to pop a spring, ditto.

They arent the flexiest in the world for hardcore off roading but ride great, and from your comments doesnt look like you necessarily *want* (at least today) hardcore.

FWIW you could go 33s on a 2" easily...
Id stay with an AT such as the BFG or ProComp (I am not a fan but many are), or even the MTZ based on your stated usage.

Finally, I am going to say my piece and get out of your business, but that is a museum piece and a collectors dream.....it would be a shame to hack it up....
 
Any thoughts on the BD 3" kit? Read where I can put 33's under it. The price is about half of what the RE 4.5" cost. Any thoughts? Pros/cons.


Looking into the one piece rear axle shaft and locker. Saw the Omix locker has a cable actuator rather than air. Any thoughts on the Omix locker compared to an ARB?



And since you already know I DKS, why not ask... Do the lockers typically go on the front or rear axle?




Any thoughts appreciated.
 
Ditch the arb and use that money towards a good lift. All you need is a limited slip or a detroit locker in the rear. Do you know what your stock gear ratio is and what size stock tires were? that will determine gear ratio better.
 
Thanks Adam. That does sound right. Got 31" tires now, but plan on going with 33's. Not sure if the BD 3" or RE 4.5" is the way to go. I like the price of the BD kit better.

Anyone want to tell me what axle shafts I should be getting. I hear about one piece rear axles a lot. Makes sense to upgrade that. But what about the front? Is that a worthwhile upgrade as well.

And for lockers, man, they are pricey. Worth the dough for mild/moderate trail riding. Looking to get up in Uwharrie quite a bit. Lots of trails there and I don't intend to ride the most challenging. Any opinions on the ARB lockers. Needed, or not?
 
I would say just go with the detroit locker and one piece rear shafts..The front should be a dana 30 which should be fine with just 33's on it,I have a locker in mine but it is not needed if your going to take it easy off road...Nice 7 by the way !
 
if you are going to run 33's i'd go to 4.10 gears, i once went from 3.31 to 3.73 it was a waste of money, if you currently have 3.54 gears ,you would hardly notice a change going to 3.73.w/ 33's you need 4.10 to have some git up & go, plus you will have a better crawl when in lo range. a detroit soft locker in the rear is 1/2 the money of a arb & works great w/o buttons, switches or compressors to fail.
 
put a lockright locker in the front axle and go anywhere you want - that you wouldnt risk body damage. leave the rear axle alone except for the one piece shafts. dont go 4" lift!!!! it opens up a can of worms.
 
I appreciate the input guys. Revealing how dumb I am again, but the logic in putting a locker on the front is that I don't need a selectable locker (ARB type) since it will be disengaged except for when I am in 4wd. So it only works when I am in 4wd. These type of lockers are less expensive because they are always actuated (but only do work when in 4wd if in the front). If I am following correct, this would not effect handling when I am in 2wd, and cost me less money that the ARB type selectable locker. Is this correct? If so, that may be an option. Sounds like they are half the price of the ARB's.
 
Found this info online. I am trying to figure out what gear I have. Thinking about the 3.73 or 4.11 if it is needed with the 33's and one piece rear axle shaft with locker (maybe). From the below info, is it saying that I have a 3.52 gear?



The T-176 was used in CJs from 1980-1986 and other Jeep trucks from 1980-1987. The T-177 and T-178 were not used in CJs, only in other Jeep trucks.



Transmission 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Rev
T-176 3.52 2.27 1.46 1.00 3.52
 
Thats the first gear ratio of the trans, important when considering tire size and axle gearing but not what you are looking for now, you need to look at a little tag on your axle and find out your axle gear ratio. There are other ways to tell as well.

when looking at a lift check out the 2.5" wide spring conversion (stock cj=2", yj=2.5"), I believe RE CJ kits already come that way but you could piece together your own kit with say some 2" BDS YJ lift springs and either a kit or the proper parts to switch to the wider springs (shacles and/or hangers). There are a few advantages of the wider springs if you search and by putting your own kit together (leafs, brake lines, shackles, shocks, hangers, etc) you may be able to save some $$. If your body mounts are worn look at the daystar 1" poly body mount kit, cheap and was easy to install and imo isn't really ghetto looking like the 2" or 3" BL's. That with 2" lift springs would easily stuff 33's with no t-case drop or driveline mods.
 
You have gear reduction in each component behind the motor, otherwise evrything would be spinning at whatever RPM the motor was turning. You will have several gears of reduction in the transmission, usually two gears in the transfer case and one gear in the axel differentials.

Like bandit said, the easiest way to tell your axle gear is look at the tag on the differential cover. Should still be there since you're the original owner. Will have several numbers, your axle gear will look like 3.07 or 3.73, something like that. Otherwise, do a search on finding your axle gear ratio, covered several times on this board.

With the tired 6cyl you'll need more gear to turn 33" tires effectively. With a strong 6 you're probably OK. That's a real good looking Jeep. If it was me I'd get the motor right, rebuild or swap, put a small lift, 2" or so, on it with the 33"s, LockRite front and rear with the one piece rear shafts, a winch, and be done with it. I like your plan od keeping it looking fairly stock!
 
JC said:
If it was me I'd get the motor right, rebuild or swap, put a small lift, 2" or so, on it with the 33"s, LockRite front and rear with the one piece rear shafts, a winch, and be done with it. I like your plan od keeping it looking fairly stock!
Click to expand...


That is exactly what I have in mind sans the winch. Just can't do it man. I will get a Hi-Lift and mount it in the back where the roll bar goes down in the far back. I can live with that, but not with holes in the front bumper. And to be honest, I don't plan on getting into many places where I would need a winch.
 
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