What rear axle will fit me best?

Which axle is best for me?

  • Total voters
    32

charliechuck

New Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2009
Location
Shaw AFB
Looking at a rear axle for my TJ...I will be running full width hp 44 out of a 78-79 F-250. Have been looking into a 9" but a lot of people keep yelling out 60 which seems over kill since I only wanna run 36s. So now I ask you what do you think I should run? Keep in mind if I run a 9" I will pretty much have to build it since I will need custom shafts for 8 lug and if I am doing custom shafts I will probably think about going 35 spline at that time and maybe nodular 3rd too :shaking: Also I am running a straight 6 with no plans for a v8
 
I don't think anyone makes an 8 lug semi-float axle for the Ford 9 inch rearend. I'd go with the Ford 9 inch, and convert the front to 5-lug.
 
I'd go 60 as well...IMO not much difference in price, similar aftermarket support and no strength compromising. Not to mention, you have a diff cover instead of having to drop the 3rd (slight irritant to me anyway). I see no down side to the 60...and then you'll be able to run your 8 lug.
 
Skip a rear 60 if you ever think you'll go bigger than 36". Not much strength advange over a 44. It's 30 spline. Go 9" and get 5 x 5.5 outers for the front 44.

The 60 is more expensive and weaker than a 14 bolt. Or go Sterling.

It costs a bunch to get 35 spline into a 60 and you'll be as strong as a 14bolt.

The 14bolt and sterling are way overkill for 36's though.
 
hadfield4wd said:
Skip a rear 60 if you ever think you'll go bigger than 36". Not much strength advange over a 44. It's 30 spline.
The 60 is more expensive and weaker than a 14 bolt. Or go Sterling.
It costs a bunch to get 35 spline into a 60 and you'll be as strong as a 14bolt.
The 14bolt and sterling are way overkill for 36's though.
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agree - if you may ever go bigger do it once and save some money. Get a Dana 70, Sterling 10.25, or Corp 14 bolt.
 
Go with a 9". They can be built plenty beefy. The only reason H2 wheels make the axles seem narrower is because they have 5.5" of backspacing on a 8.5" wide wheel. You can get custom steel wheels with similar specs if you look around.

A 60 has much more overall strength than a 44. The bearings, housing, and tubes are much larger/thicker/stronger, and since its full float, the shafts don't carry any weight. If you've ever seen D60 parts beside D44 parts, you appreciate the difference. Yes, a 14 bolt is stronger, but a rockwell is stronger than a 14bolt, and Clarke axle is stronger than a Rockwell, and the axle from a 200ton Cat dumptruck is stronger...

With that said, I went straight to a D60 rear from a D35 when I was running 33's. I made custom spacers for the front dana 30 which adapted it from 5 lug to 8 lug and made the widths about the same. I've put Chromoly shafts in it, but I've never had any problems out of it. It is still 30 spline, and has held up fine behind a 4.6 stroker with 5.61 1st gear, 4:1 t-case, and 4.56 axle gearing on 35's, 36's, and 38's.
 
BIGWOODY said:
I'd do a stock rear 60 ...it's be the cheapest and it should be good with 36's
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So sounds like most people are saying a 60...36s or possible 37s are as big as i wanna go...once you get on 38s my 44 wont hold and then I will be driving 8hrs to wheel...Also cant run stock...My front has 4.88s a spool on cromo shafts so I would be going through the 60
 
I ran a 60 with stock 30 spline shafts with 42s and held up fine....
 
snappy said:
I ran a 60 with stock 30 spline shafts with 42s and held up fine....
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I am not worried about how a 60 will hold up...I know it will hold up fine...Its the front axle that would limit me to 37s...The guy i bought the front 44 from was breaking cromo shats with 38s...So nobody thinks a 60 is just to much for 36s-37s?
 
You don't need a 70 or 14 bolt. Now that that's out of the way, a 9" or 60 will do anything you need... plus the aftermarket is there if it doesn't. Do you want SF or FF? You need to answer that for yourself first, then go from there. A 9" will serve you well, in my opinion - but that's just my opinion. The SF 60s can see a lot of abuse as well.
 
Has anyone here ran a 60 with 36s that wasnt shaved? How much did you drag? If i run a 60 I guess I would just shave the crap out of it...I would like to say FF but any axle that is FF I would never even have to worry about shafts breaking any way soo I dont know...I am so lost right now in axles its not even funny...I will have my mind set on a big bearing 9 then I see a shaved 60 and with a 60 i know how much peace of mind i would.
 
Find a 60 out of a ford van. It is offset so the pumkin raises with the tire so it is not so much of an issue as being centered and doesn't gain ground clearance that the offset on does.
 
snappy said:
Find a 60 out of a ford van. It is offset so the pumkin raises with the tire so it is not so much of an issue as being centered and doesn't gain ground clearance that the offset on does.
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Alright I am over my head and learning as we go here...So this 60 is offset meaning I would have to center it? Kinda lost with this statement "doesn't gain ground clearance that the offset on does" Would you please clear this up for this noob :bounce2: Thanks for every ones help also...This is going to be a fun and informational build!!!
 
With the pumpkin centered, one either tire goes up or down then the center never goes up or down. With an offset pumpkin when the tire closet to the pumkin goes up, u "gain" ground clearance. That's why a lot of the pro guys run the pumpkins offset....
 
snappy said:
With the pumpkin centered, one either tire goes up or down then the center never goes up or down. With an offset pumpkin when the tire closet to the pumkin goes up, u "gain" ground clearance. That's why a lot of the pro guys run the pumpkins offset....
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Hummmm never even thought about that...what kind of work would that take to get your drive line angle correct? I assume you would need to move the TC over a few inches? Or am I over thinking this way to much?
 
I ran mine offset rear end with centered tcase. Search for basement wheeler under my screen name and u can see pics....
 
snappy said:
I ran mine offset rear end with centered tcase. Search for basement wheeler under my screen name and u can see pics....
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That is a sweet build!! Do you remember by any chance what your upper CAs length also they look to be a different length than another...Also your WB looks to be a lot longer than mine is...even if i do a 5" stretch I still think I could have drive line vibes...I think it could be pretty noticeable with it being 6" offset...Love the build tho!!!

ai120.photobucket.com_albums_o166_cb19950_rearwelded.jpg
 
9 inch is fine if you build it with nodular 3rd and a fabricated housing. otherwise leave them at the junkyard. youll have to build it full float to get 8 lug. lot of money to spend for no reason. going to be real close to the same strength as a 60.

D60 find big bore and run 35 spline shafts. Cheapest best method

14 bolt good.......... heavy very poor ground clearence but cheapp and nearly indestructable

d70, sterlings need to be left at the scrap yard


we can buid both front and rear axles bolt in for your TJ.
 
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