Whats the perfect truck to yank the 1tons out of?

EdJonesJeeper

The Stig's NC cousin
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Location
Pisgah Forest, NC
Disk brakes front and rear preferably and under a budget.
Easily lockable and minimum issues for swap under the weight of a wrangler?

I know d60 upfront but which truck has the best d60/whatever combo?
:popcorn:
 
78 or 79 SRW Snowfighter F-350, HP60 front/ 60 rear.
 
In my opinion, no truck was built with the best front and rear axle combination for your Wrangler with the DS TC.

Since you have a Wrangler, for the front you are going to need a D60 out of a Ford due to them being driver side drop. The 78-79 models are popular because they have more tube on the driver side to weld link tabs to. I'm not sure what year in the 80's the ball joint versions replaced the older king pin style, but the king pin style is preferred due to ease of adding high steer arms.

For the rear, I would go with a standard 14 bolt FF from an 87 or older SRW Chevy pickup.


If you want to swap out the TC to something passenger side drop, then I would recommend finding a set of axles out of a military 1 ton pickup. It would have a D60 front/14 bolt FF rear, 4.56 gears, Detroit in the rear, and open front. If you are OK with that gear ratio, then all you need to do is throw a Lock Right in the front and upgrade the stub shafts/lockouts to 35 spline stuff, and you are done.
 
I agree with Drkelly,
I just bought a 79 ford for the front and have a 14bolt for the rear of my TJ. I already have the old d30/8.8 out and ready for the tons:driver:
 
If it was me I'd go 78/79 60 from under a Ford (came stock under 78/9 250 Sno-Fighters, 79 350's, but could be ordered in 78 under a 250), all of those rigs would have come stock with a rear 60. Since I like all Ford parts, I'd go with a rear 70 (more than likely out of a 73-79 camper or supercamper special and potentially under other 350's...careful those coulda had a D61 as well). If I wasn't that way, I'd go 14bolt in the rear.
 
Since I like all Ford parts, I'd go with a rear 70 (more than likely out of a 73-79 camper or supercamper special and potentially under other 350's...

You only go with Ford parts so you recommend a dana/spicer axle...:rolleyes:
 
You only go with Ford parts so you recommend a dana/spicer axle...:rolleyes:


Damn nice ball bust and zero contribution to the thread. Sorry, I figured an adult that had a brain between his ears would understand what I was saying. I assumed most guys on this site would be well versed enough to comprehend that I meant parts that were original to Fords as they rolled off the lot. I apologize for not breaking that down for you to understand.
 
Thanks for the responses! How come no love for dodge front d60?

Because all of the versions made in the last 20 years have undesirable everything. That's why they can be had for nothing. I've got a kingpin ford 60 which is the "desirable" 60 and a 10.25. Imo it was a waste of money, wish I had just swapped in a chevy drivetrain with a pass drop and used much cheaper chevy axles. Chevy 60 has stronger knuckles and a 14 bolt despite being a pig is almost unbreakable. Once you get to one ton rear axles, they are all plenty strong and none have a huge aftermarket except maybe the 14b. I would think about a low pinion 60 with 35spline shafts. It all depends on tire size and horsepower.
 
Because all of the versions made in the last 20 years have undesirable everything. That's why they can be had for nothing. I've got a kingpin ford 60 which is the "desirable" 60 and a 10.25. Imo it was a waste of money, wish I had just swapped in a chevy drivetrain with a pass drop and used much cheaper chevy axles. Chevy 60 has stronger knuckles and a 14 bolt despite being a pig is almost unbreakable. Once you get to one ton rear axles, they are all plenty strong and none have a huge aftermarket except maybe the 14b. I would think about a low pinion 60 with 35spline shafts. It all depends on tire size and horsepower.

?? If it is the desirable d60 why do you think it's a waste if money?
 
?? If it is the desirable d60 why do you think it's a waste if money?

Usually a Chevy D60 is a couple hundred or more cheaper than a 78-79 Ford D60. The stock Ford knuckles seem to fail a little easier than the Chevy ones, but with high steer arms, and some rough wheeling, either axle is going to need a set of upgraded knuckles after a while.

If you are going with a D300, then just be patient and look for a set of Chevy military tons like I mentioned. They are the best bang for the buck in my opinion.
 
Disk brakes front and rear preferably and under a budget.
Easily lockable and minimum issues for swap under the weight of a wrangler?

I know d60 upfront but which truck has the best d60/whatever combo?
:popcorn:
wtf sounds like you went out for more than just burgers yesterday:shaking:
 
wtf sounds like you went out for more than just burgers yesterday:shaking:


Haha yea this is long term but might as well get educated.

I want to know what gems to be looking for.


I do have a friend that has an old international forest serv truck for sale but I'm pretty sure it's wide d44 front and rear. Anyone know if thats the d300 off hand? He wants it gone for $700
 
IMO, for what you want (cost being a consideration) go with late model Super Duty D60/10.5 combo. Why? Because you will not have to spend $500 to replace 20-25 year old front brakes. You will not have to spend $400 on rear disc brake conversion. You can buy the pair for around $700 all day long.

There are so many other things to weigh out the best for your swap. But by using these axles, it seems you can save $1000 just off the top.

What tons do I use? Chevy 60 front and 14 Bolt rear. Why? 14 Bolts are stupid strong, just shave 'em. Chevy 60's are $300-$400 cheaper than Ford KP 60's and I don't have to pay out $500 for knuckles that won't break easily. Low pinion, but big deal. 1350 series 1/4 wall driveshafts laugh at being dragged over rocks.

My 2 cents
 
Hey Jody

1350 series? You mean f-350 or are the chevy's called 1350 series with the thick 1/4 tube?

And you shaved your 14b? What is the purpose and where did you shave it? I'm gussing the big ol pig hanging down right you didn't narrow it I don't want a custom job. I wanna have parts easily findable not difficultly fabricated lol.


And chris just let me know. I'll get an appointment with him he's retired and its at his house in pisgah forest. Best time would be during the week day.
 
1350 is the yoke size on the Chevy 60. Since you've got time to do the research in advance, go ahead and bookmark this http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html

There are issues with either of the big 3 front 60's depending on your particular setup. The newer (94+) Dodge 60's are not generally desirable, however the 93 and older Dodge axles are very similar to the Chevy 60's, with pass drop, low pinion, kingpins and stout knuckles. The big differences are slightly different spring perch widths, diff length shafts and the Dodges will often have external hubs.

Your best bet is to find a Ford HP 60 (either 78-79 or 85-91) and plan the rest of your drivetrain and suspension around that. Air shocks or coil overs will be easier to mount than coil buckets in either case. As for the rear, you can't go wrong with a 14 bolt or Dana 70.

But Jody's suggestion makes a lot of sense too. Especially if you find a deal on those newer axles.
 
Hey Jody

1350 series? You mean f-350 or are the chevy's called 1350 series with the thick 1/4 tube?

And you shaved your 14b? What is the purpose and where did you shave it? I'm gussing the big ol pig hanging down right you didn't narrow it I don't want a custom job. I wanna have parts easily findable not difficultly fabricated lol.

1350 seires refers to driveshaft joint size, Higher number, higher strength and size.(layman's terms there) My driveshafts will be 1/4" wall and I will use them as a slider in case they become hung up on.
You would shave a 14B, just like any axle, for clearance. 14B's have a huge centersection. This can get hung up easily, hence the need to shave them. Mine is shaved about 1 1/2", which equates to 3" additional tire size, clearance-wise. Mine is factory narrow, at 63". My front axle is narrowed as well, but to 65" by me to match my rear. A little wider, but this will allow my 39's to clear my lower control arms at full turn.
 
Get em outta a Deuce and a Half and never look back, cheaper and you don't have to worry bout breaking stuff all the time on little 1 Tons, Rockdubs are where its at :smokin:


im with ricky! hands down a duece is the best deal out there! ya already have 6.xx gear ratio! AND THEY ARE DUECES! hell for the price ofa built 1 ton you can have disk brakes ona deuce locked loaded and ready to mall crawl! :driver:
 
Haha yea this is long term but might as well get educated.
I want to know what gems to be looking for.
I do have a friend that has an old international forest serv truck for sale but I'm pretty sure it's wide d44 front and rear. Anyone know if thats the d300 off hand? He wants it gone for $700

You want nothing to do with a full-size international truck with what you are trying to accomplish.

FYI - depending on year, full-size IH trucks had divorced 205s or 202s, drum brake front axles, and could have big-six split rim wheels.

PM me some contact information for the owner f you don't mind, he may have something I (or another IH guy) may need.

-Jeff
 
ROCKWELLS :lol: :Rockon:
BUT, if it has to be tons, get them out of a M1008 or M1028, that way you get a FREE detroit in the rear. Most of the time, the military stuff has fresh grease, good brakes, because they are maintained more regularly. The rear disc conversion won't cost you anywhere near $400. It's all off-the-shelf advance auto/napa/autozone stuff, nothing exotic.
 
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