Winch Control issue

SHINTON

SHINTON

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Location
Triad area of NC
Ok...start off with the basics, Warn M8000, bought it about 2 years ago. (Has unlimited etc lifetime deal from 4wpw if that is needed)

Bought a in cab control switch...and mr Radioman himself helped me wire it all up about 1.5 years ago and LOVE it.

Issue started with I would hit the "IN" (again on the inside control) and nothing would happen, would tap OUT and it would work, immed follow up with IN and it starts working. Figured I had a switch going bad inside the cab itself although it felt fine. (THis has worked for a while like this, say since summer...so somewhat random issue)

Was going to spool up my cable this past weekend, pulled out my regular controller and hooked it up...and nothing in either direction. (In or out) Only tried it a couple times "wiggled" the connector and seemed plugged in good.

Jumped back in the cab and hit IN and nothing, did the OUT/IN trick and it worked fine coming in, had someone help me re-spool pulling BUG fwd/tension.

Ok...have not done more testing since then...but wondered what the thoughts are? Something going bad in my solenoid box or maybe dirty/needs cleaning or.....?

FYI..the winch control box was mounted on the inner fender under the hood to keep it off the front of Jeep. Again, based on various recommendations..so it isn't getting rained on alot or anything...just whatever watered kicked up in the engine bay.

Anyway, wanted to start there and see whatcha thought I need to start with/test, etc?

Sam
 
solenoid(s).. betcha.
 
You are now the victim of the dreaded sticking motorbrush and/or a solenoid going south. Both are common when the interval between uses stretches into more than a few weeks, and even then it occurs too frequently. This phenomenon is why I now have little to no damn use for the trendy "hidden" winches and the so-called "bull bumpers" that prevent preventive maintenance on yer winch.
 
http://www.dbelectrical.com/winch/winch.shtml#warn

They appear to have replacement solenoids for $25 each... thoughts on them or other good places to find high quality replacements?

Worth hassling 4wpw about since it is a lifetime etc warranty?

Oh yeah...what preventive maint SHOULD I have been doing btw....(Yeah I haven't done anything to it in 2 years...sigh)

Sam
 
Sam I would try some testing with you and someone else with a meter to see where power is going or not going. That will tell you if it is a switch or solenoid or brushes. Time consuming, and agravating, but really the only way to see what and where the problem is.
ROTSARUCK
 
I wouldn't go back through 4WPW since they're not going to fix it. They'll ask you to bring it to them so they can evaluate it or send it out for evaluation, and that's gonna take time and generate unnecessary logistics for you.

Check the solenoid issue first since it's the easiest to check, but since a meter will only tell you that voltage is getting to the various terminals, not whether sufficient current's actually getting through the brushes, be prepared for the less desirable and most likely fix. Faulty intermittent solenoids do possess similar symptoms.

IIRC, we did away with passing the ground voltage through the control switch for simplicity's sake and a lack of enough terminals on the interior switches, so check to see that the solenoid ground is still solid at all the connections, and do the same for all the positive side connections, too. Check the motor terminals closely because the "protective" boots have a habit of hiding problem connections. Check to see that the motor ground is intact and in good shape - it's essential.

Once you've tested and sorta eliminated the solenoids, etc., etc., remove the motor and disassemble the rear cover so you can get the motor shaft out and allow access to the brushes, uh.......better yet, get someone who's done this before to remove the rear cover....... Ya see, it's those brushes, they're spring loaded and they WILL remove themselves if given the opportunity, and you'll be cussin' all of us unless you can kernoodle the trick to holding them in place whilst you put the 4 pounds of worms back into the 2 pound bag. I would suggest Greg "MacGyver" Spencer and a little cash for the best man for the job.

Anyway, if a brush or brushes are stuck, they won't be so anxious to get out of that motor frame when you disassemble it, and that'll tell ya right away that the problem is likely the brushes. That's not to say you aren't having a problem with the solenoids in addition to the brushes, too. Whatever else is found, the brushes need to be cleaned thoroughly and lubed properly with a synthetic non-conductive waterproof grease before putting them back in place because the residue from the wear on the brushes turns gummy and gets trapped by the very lube that's supposed to allow them to move freely. That residue will get in the way of efficiently getting sufficient quantities of those electron thingies across the gap between the brush and the ring, so cleanliness is next to juiciness in ElectricMotorWorld.
 
SHINTON said:
http://www.dbelectrical.com/winch/winch.shtml#warn

They appear to have replacement solenoids for $25 each... thoughts on them or other good places to find high quality replacements?

Worth hassling 4wpw about since it is a lifetime etc warranty?

Oh yeah...what preventive maint SHOULD I have been doing btw....(Yeah I haven't done anything to it in 2 years...sigh)

Sam
Click to expand...

Sam I replaced all 4 of my solenoids because of some major corrosion. I too was very lacking in the winch maint. department. But my M8000 is over 10 years old and still kicking. I got my solenoids straight from Warn for I think $20 each..
 
The switches in the warn remotes are not very water proof. If they get wet they will corrode very quick. That may be why the remote doesn't work at all.
 
Similar problem

I had a very similar problem with my Ramsey REP8000. I could only get it to go out and not in with both my in cab controler and my remote. I started at the solenoids and found that the cables were pretty corroded. I disconnected them and cleaned the heck out of them and then reinstalled them with a bunch of dielectric grease on them and haven't had a problem in over 6 months.
 
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