Would it be a horrible idea

RatLabGuy

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
Churchville, MD
to drive w/o one front brake caliper?
I have a slight "pulling" I suspect may be a slightly sticking caliper on a slightly warped rotor - or it could be alignment, but it's been aligned and still remains (but I don't really trust the guy that did it either).

I could prob tell in 300-500 yards or less...
or maybe better to just remove pads from both sides?
 
Bad Idea. When you push the brake pedal, it'll just push the pistons out of the bores and blow brake fluid all over the place. Plus it'll be a pain in the butt to put the pistons back in.
 
David Take the wheels off and pry the pistons away from the rotor. put the wheels back on and then DON'T hit the brakes. DO it controlled with using the E brake to stop. Test it out and see if it's your caliper sticking. a few touches of the brake pedal will bring the brakes back.
Good luck
 
upnover said:
David Take the wheels off and pry the pistons away from the rotor. put the wheels back on and then DON'T hit the brakes. DO it controlled with using the E brake to stop. Test it out and see if it's your caliper sticking. a few touches of the brake pedal will bring the brakes back.
Good luck
Click to expand...
I was thinking about this as an alternative.
The problem is the instict of getting in, sitting down, put foot on pedal... hard to dismiss!
Actually I just went for a quick "comparison" drive, looks like 100 yrds or less will do it
 
we where wheeling in mt. city, when a buddy lost a slide caliper bolt. we pulled the remaining bolt, and placed a socket, close to the same thickness as the rotor between the pads, pressed brake pedal to "cinch" the socket in place, zip tied the caliper up and out of the way, and made it back to the trail head, much further than a 100 yards, but in a controlled 4 wheel low enviroment..........it can be done, just be careful doing it


HTH
 
So I had another brake problem, decided to tackle it first - pedal needed double-pumping to get firm,it would stop but just more pedal travel. Plus my MC tank was leaking.
Spent the night swapping in a spare MC I had, that fixed that problem at least, so now I know at least those issues aren't related.
In the process, I realized that you could easily just block off both front lines by just unthreading the single front line from the MC, and threading in an M10 1.0 bolt, or just one caliper by doing the same at one side of the T just below the MC. I've done this in the rear when changing 3rds/axle shafts, just block the T to keep it from leaking.

So maybe tomorrow I'll pull the pads out of both calipers, put 'em back on, block the line, and try a short spin (in the eve when no other cars around lol)
 
Well I'm still alive
I pulled the pads out, put calipers back on w/o them.
Then at the master cylinder, removed the line to front brakes, trheaded in an M10 1.0 bolt to plug it.
On Toys you have the proportioning valve too - I almost forgot that, it would have pushed fluid back to the front. FYI on the pass side wheel well right on the frame, there's a T connecting fronts to porp valve - threaded another M10 in there to block it.
That's be a great way to block it off on the trail for situations as above.

Actually worked just fine, pedal a little hard but really driving reminded me of the old '64 Malibu I drove in HS, 4 wheel drums w//o any booster lol. Stopped ok just wouldn't want to do it going fast
Still have my slight leftward pull so I guess it must be an alignment issue, but that's easy since I paid for the "lifetime alignment".
 
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