Wrangler windshield pin removal?

Rox&Mud

Rox&Mud

CTB
Joined
Nov 3, 2006
Location
Raleigh
I want to be able to remove my windshield by pulling the hinge pin instead of removing the entire hinge bracket. I searched here and pirate but didn't find anything. I know I can get the pin out of the hinge, I just want to know if it is easier to get the pin cap off the inboard or outboard side of the pins. It may not make a difference which side I remove but I thought I'd ask.
 
maybe contact oljeep here on the board and see if he has a pic of the hinges on his jeep. they are made to fold forward and slide apart. I guess technically you could just cut them and make it go together like the doors go on, only sideways.
 
contact Buckshot500 on here, he has quick pined everything on his jeep including the hood fenders, and tail gate, i'm sure he can tell you what to do.
 
Let us know how you end up doing it, I've been trying to do the same thing to my pile.
 
Just got back from vaca!

What I did was grind down the welds on the ends of the pins, & them some of the tube near those ends after driving them out with a drift pin. Tractor supply had the lynch pins, & I took the old pins to match the diameter up.
ai254.photobucket.com_albums_hh83_buckshot500_OlllllllO_3.jpg

ai254.photobucket.com_albums_hh83_buckshot500_OlllllllO_1.jpg

ai254.photobucket.com_albums_hh83_buckshot500_OlllllllO_2.jpg
 
^^^
Thanks,
So the Buttons on the ends of hte pin is really a weld? Your pics are of the hood hinge, I assume you did the same thing for the windshield? Did you grind down the hinge tubes to accommodate the length of the lynch pins available or was there some other reason? Were you able to find the right diameter lynch pin for the windshield at Tractor Supply as well?
 
I cut my windshield pins, then drilled them out. Not sure if it was the easiest way bc it was a total pain in the butt, but it did get the job done. I used regular bolts to bolt it back up. Probably could have done quick pins but I guess I'm just lazy!
 
Rox&Mud said:
^^^
Thanks,
So the Buttons on the ends of the pin is really a weld? Your pics are of the hood hinge, I assume you did the same thing for the windshield? Did you grind down the hinge tubes to accommodate the length of the lynch pins available or was there some other reason? Were you able to find the right diameter lynch pin for the windshield at Tractor Supply as well?
Click to expand...

Oh damn, I posted the hood pin pics!

Yes it's welded on the ends. Also correct about the pin length accommodation. See below, for windshield explanation.

getstucksome said:
I cut my windshield pins, then drilled them out. Not sure if it was the easiest way bc it was a total pain in the butt, but it did get the job done. I used regular bolts to bolt it back up. Probably could have done quick pins but I guess I'm just lazy!
Click to expand...


I also used some long bolts on the windshield hinges.

Only I got them extra long (Tractor Supply) & cut the threads off. Then I drilled through the end & used some small hitch pins to keep them in place.

Just be sure to take the hitch pins out before folding the windshield down, or they'll bend. When folding but not removing the windshield, I just push the hitch pins past their center position so they hang by the end loop.

ai254.photobucket.com_albums_hh83_buckshot500_Heep_20pics_IMG_0030.jpg
 
GotWood said:
maybe contact oljeep here on the board and see if he has a pic of the hinges on his jeep. they are made to fold forward and slide apart. I guess technically you could just cut them and make it go together like the doors go on, only sideways.
Click to expand...

Pre-76 CJ hinges had a slot in them, so you could take the windshield off... different design than the newer style hinge... Don't think they will interchange with the wrangler, but might be something to look into...
 
Ok, I have ground down both sides of the pin, tried to beat it out while on the Jeep. It wouldn't budge so I pulled the bracket off and put it on the bench, ground it some more, beat it some more, still won't move. Here are some pics of what I have so far...
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Rox&Mud said:
Ok, I have ground down both sides of the pin, tried to beat it out while on the Jeep. It wouldn't budge so I pulled the bracket off and put it on the bench, ground it some more, beat it some more, still won't move. Here are some pics of what I have so far...
attachment.php
Click to expand...

According to the info posted here & your pics, the end your attempting to drive from is the splined end of the pin... IOW, you need to drive it out from the OPPOSITE (none splined) end!
 
Caver Dave said:
According to the info posted here & your pics, the end your attempting to drive from is the splined end of the pin... IOW, you need to drive it out from the OPPOSITE (none splined) end!
Click to expand...

x2. You are actually driving it in tighter, it shouldn't be hard to drive out from the other end.
 
Both ends look exactly the same. I have ground both ends and tried to dive/press it both ways, hence my aggravation with this. I will post the pics of the other side shortly.
 
Looking at your pics in post 12, It looks like you may be using too small of a diameter drift pin. It wants to be just a little smaller than the hinge pin.
You could center punch one end & drill it a hair smaller than the pin, for a drilled depth of about 3/8". This will allow the splines to release some tension, then you can drift the hinge pin out from the end you drilled.
 
^^^
I was using the biggest drift I had handy. I was hoping not to dril but it looks like that will be the way to go.
Thanks for the help, I'll let ya know how it goes.
 
There should be holes in the hinge for oil lube the crap out of them with pb blaster and then try.
 
rokntoy said:
There should be holes in the hinge for oil lube the crap out of them with pb blaster and then try.
Click to expand...

X2!, this goes for any rust welded bolts or pins you might have.

If it didn't move by the time you got to the "Mechanic's Feel" zone on your internal torque wrench, then soak it down with PB/B & wait a day or three.
 
If I remember correctly, the TJ's hinge pin isn't a single pin at all. It's completely different than the CJ/YJ set-up. There are two pins, one at each end of the hinge. The pins are tapered and the top portion of the hinge has a smaller diameter hole than the "ears" of the hinge. The pins get pressed in from each side.

The pins resemble a lug bolt design, if that helps you visualize what you're working on. You're trying to hammer the larger portion of the pin through a hole smaller in diameter. It won't work that way.


I think drilling might be your best option now that you've cut the heads off.
 
jpdudejr said:
If I remember correctly, the TJ's hinge pin isn't a single pin at all. It's completely different than the CJ/YJ set-up. There are two pins, one at each end of the hinge. The pins are tapered and the top portion of the hinge has a smaller diameter hole than the "ears" of the hinge. The pins get pressed in from each side.
The pins resemble a lug bolt design, if that helps you visualize what you're working on. You're trying to hammer the larger portion of the pin through a hole smaller in diameter. It won't work that way.
I think drilling might be your best option now that you've cut the heads off.
Click to expand...

So TJ pins actually have heads on them, instead of being plug welded?
This would be good info to have for future reference.

I now see that Rox&Mud didn't specify TJ pins. Not knowing much about TJ's, I might have asked if they had the plug welds first. Either way, the splined area needs to be drilled enough to release the grip of the splines, so they can be driven out.

If they had (non-welded) heads on them, some good vise grips & a hammer might have pulled them out.
 
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