XJ 4.0l clutch recommendation

shelby27604

shelby27604

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2013
Location
Efland NC
I think I will take this downtime to do a clutch swap in the wife's XJ....there is no slipping or smell, but the pedal is just off the floor engagement, and she seems to grind reverse more and more.

The jeep is a daily driver (so looking for reasonable clutch pedal effort) and will probably see mild power mods, light wheeling, and occasional uhual enclosed trailer towing.

Leaning towards the LUK or LUK HD, but I can't find any opinions on clutch effort after the HD swap. Rockauto has a LUK brand flywheel for $50, so I will probably toss a flywheel, rear main, and new hyd. at it while I am in there.
 
Just the Luk will work great an should handle the abuse that you will be throwing at it, we have sold hundreds of these clutches to folks that have abused them without ANY comebacks, the HD to me would be a little overkill and have at least a 25% heavier pedal.
 
I wonder how much heavier that would be than my current setup.... current setup is probably 3x stiffer than the NV4500 in my Ram, and 5x stiffer than our saab.
When I bought the jeep, I was told the clutch had been replaced, I am curious if it didn't get shimmed, or if the wrong pressure plate got put in. I have reverse bled the hydraulics several times without any change.
 
shelby27604 said:
I wonder how much heavier that would be than my current setup.... current setup is probably 3x stiffer than the NV4500 in my Ram, and 5x stiffer than our saab.
When I bought the jeep, I was told the clutch had been replaced, I am curious if it didn't get shimmed, or if the wrong pressure plate got put in. I have reverse bled the hydraulics several times without any change.
Click to expand...

OEM LuK end of discussion.


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IIRC, you can get the Luk clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate from Rockauto for under $100. I have a spare one around here somewhere just in case.

You have to go to the dealer to get the pivot arm clip, though. Don't put it back together without replacing that as well.
 
Are you sure it isn’t just the slave going bad? My YJ was like that when I bought it and I just bled the slave cylinder. It’s doing it again since I flipped it and got air in the master again, but a few pumps brings it back.
 
flipped it, pumped it, bopped it, slapped it....no change.

Slave looks fairly new as well.....I guess I could get a new slave and put it on there just to see.
 
I’d probably do that to start with. Then if it still acts up, it’s even better to have replaced all the clutch parts and the all be new.
 
But is it:

77888562-leprechaun-with-a-pot-of-gold-and-four-leaf-clover-and-luck-illustration-for-st-patrick-s-day-vector.jpg

Luck? Or

luke_the_hero_small.png

Luke?
 
I put in a new LUK brand clutch master / slave cylinder assembly. When I pulled the original one out, it was just a steel rod to engage the throwout fork, the new unit had a nylon pivot that also retained the cylinder via. two small straps. I left the pivot on as I assume the previous mechanic thought it was only a shipping bracket.

Clutch engagement seems to be about mid pedal travel (still heavier than I would like, but up and off the floor).

Can anyone confirm that nylon piece stays in place? Every one of these I have replaced in the past had a steel ball pivot at the end, I assume this is just cost savings, or NVH changes.
 
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