XJ Axel swap?

JP_ProAm

Active Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2011
Location
Clyde
I've got an XJ with a 6.5 longarm and 35's. I'm wanting to swap my wimpy Chrysler 8.25 and the front Dana 30 for something stronger. My buddy has a Chevy 12 bolt I could use. IDK what would ya'll suggest is the best choice for me?
 
I wouldn't rule them out as wimpy per say. My d30 and 8.25 held up to being locked and 34s no problem. You just have to remember your jeep cherokee isn't a buggy off a youtube video from busted knuckle. Hope you have some deep pockets and a good selection of tools.

These cover just about everything...
Options for A Rear Axle
Dana 44 for the Front
If you want to keep the d30
 
Ford D44 HP in the front, and Ford 9" in the rear.
 
I'd avoid the 12 bolt. Ford 44/9 combo. Running radius arms in the front from a ford truck makes it pretty simple. Just finished this build up for a buddy a few months back, running radius arms modified by Rides, 6.5" lift on 38.5's.
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dude, nothing wrong with 8.25 or D35, im running 38s and was on 36 and 39.5s before that stock axles and ratios with auto AW4 and trust me, i would know that its not too much unless you plan ondoing some youtube stuff like that one guy said you'll be fine. Ive ran 36 TSLs on stock jeeps for 6-7years now and hold up just fine, just be smart but don't degrade your jeep by saying that its wimpy. Aint' nothing WIMPY about a cherokee and now I got a Doubler with 38 TSLs cut, and let me tell you, outside of heavy rock crawlin, i'd put it up against any 44, 60 or whatever bolts people want to say. Remember to all Cherokee people, It aint about what you got, its how you use or abuse what you got. We cherokee stock axle guys just have to be smarter and pay more attention to detail than the bigger diff guys but we can still do what they do. And yes, shallow pockets is what has forced me over 13years to learn to properly finesse my cheorkees through stuff as any other truck would. Hope this builds you up and makes you think twice about doubting your jeep.
 
whats even more interesting is i talked to buddy of mine who builds rock crawlers for a lliving, and he even said not really much of a difference between the size of a D30 and 44 axles themselves and even the rear of 35s and such and as he pointed out, thats why he/people hears of so many people breaking 44s because they have the wrong impression that they are that much bigger and can just beat on them but in all reality, not worth the money. I wouldn't spend money on anything but 60s or higher if i was going to go that route to truly really have a gain of peace. just a thought that came up
 
d35 has its moments of breakage ive noticed for people but i couldnt speak the same about it. u know, they didn't put it on the jeeps for such a long time for nothing and the stock cheorkee isn't so capable for no reason so.....i think there could be more credit given to them than 'horrible' . Take a stock cherokee d35 against bone stock to any other blazer, exploder,bone stock and give em all hell as far as they'll go and guarantee others will brake stuff before jeep does, id put money on that bet, ive seen it
 
88jeepster said:
d35 has its moments of breakage ive noticed for people but i couldnt speak the same about it. u know, they didn't put it on the jeeps for such a long time for nothing and the stock cheorkee isn't so capable for no reason so.....i think there could be more credit given to them than 'horrible' . Take a stock cherokee d35 against bone stock to any other blazer, exploder,bone stock and give em all hell as far as they'll go and guarantee others will brake stuff before jeep does, id put money on that bet, ive seen it
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I would bet that if you took a cherokee stock rear axle (d35/8.25) vs an explorer stock rear (8.8) the explorer would win hands down 90% of the time.

The axle shaft size of the d35 isnt really an issue. It's primarly the C-clips that are used and housing flex that causes breakage. If you spent the money to upgrade it with a super 35 kit and full truss to elimate its weaknesses, it would hold up to some abuse.

But for all that money you could put a 8.8 or 9" in there and have a far superior setup.
 
true about the c-clip thing which is why i weld all my cherokee diffs cause then you eliminate that as a weakness, ofcourse replacing bearings and all first then weld it to where IF something breaks, yeah you just replace the whole thing but for me anyways, welding carrier and axles eliminates the weak c-clips and such. the truss thing is true too and looking into that soon.
 
you weld the axles into the carrier?

This still doesnt fix the issue of axle retention in a d35. If you break a shaft or c-clip it will walk out on you. when upgrading to a d44 or 9" you eliminate this risk.
 
Welding the diff does nothing to eliminat C-clip problem, unless you weld the clip to the carrier, which seems dumb. I guess its a throw-away axle might as well?
My experiince with the D35 was the classic tube flex/shaft breakage/wheel+shaft walk out.
 
yeah but what are people doing with xjs to warp or rube flex the diff anyway. thats not what xjs can handle so i guess it really matters on what ur doing.
 
RenegadeT said:
My experiince with the D35 was the classic tube flex/shaft breakage/wheel+shaft walk out.
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Seen that twice in one day at Uwharrie a few years back. I gave the second guy and his buddy a ride to the outpost. The first guy was broke down at the rocky hill climb on Dutch John all day while his buddy drove 2 hrs home to get a spare shaft, and 2 hrs back to URE. Both guys were only running 33" tires.
 
Question for the OP... do you have a welder or access to a welder and are capable to performing an axle swap yourself? If not then stay with stock axles. If so, the sky's the limit. if you only want to run 35's then stock axles should be fine. You're at a point where it's either jump or don't jump. You're gonna have a nice chunk of change invested in an axle swap regardless of what they are and one day you'll regret sinking money into anything thats less than 1 tons. Stick with stock and get some trail time in. They won't be around forever.
 
I just can't see why guys drop huge bucks into the d35's. I went the 8.8 route. My 30 is trussed but that was because the 44 front option is so pricey. At least for me since I can't weld myself.
 
XJsavage said:
Question for the OP... do you have a welder or access to a welder and are capable to performing an axle swap yourself? If not then stay with stock axles. If so, the sky's the limit. if you only want to run 35's then stock axles should be fine. You're at a point where it's either jump or don't jump. You're gonna have a nice chunk of change invested in an axle swap regardless of what they are and one day you'll regret sinking money into anything thats less than 1 tons. Stick with stock and get some trail time in. They won't be around forever.
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I agree myself as far as wheel it like it is for now, don't go crazy on those diffs and wait until u have enough money to upgrade a worth upgrading setup. That's what I'm doing now. Even on 38" Cut TSLs, I'm just gonna take it easier until I get money for a big upgrade and then be done with it. Have fun, don't be too hard on it and save up. That's what I've been taught and that's the route I agree is the best to spend money on.
 
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