XJ noob questions

87GMCJimmy

87GMCJimmy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Location
Mint Hill, NC
Hey y'all! We got a 98 Cherokee Classic 4x4 for my GF as a DD. I'm a total noob when it comes to XJ's so, I've got some questions! Basically we want to set this Jeep up to be a good DD with some offroad use. Thinking about 3.5" lift and some 31's. So, along those lines, a few questions!:

Rubicon Express 3.5" Super ride lift, what do y'all think? Recommendations?

Wheels to fit 31's, I'm gathering that stock rims will have the tires rubbing on the control arms?

So, if we go aftermarket rims, 15x7 or 15x8? What's the recommended backspacing, 3.75"?

Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks y'all!
 
You can get you some cheap steel rims 15x8 with 3.75 backspacing and be just fine you could probably get by with 4" backspacing as well., I believe when I had 31's on my stock wheels on my xj it rubbed when I had the wheel turned at its sharpest but that was the only time, as far as the RE lift, Ive not used RE stuff before but have only heard good things about RE. Hope this helps some.
 
the rubicon kit is top notch. stock wheels will be fine, just they'll rub, you could get a set of arms off a grand cherokee. they have a bend in then to stop the rubbing. plus there stronger. on that little lift 4" backspacing will be plenty if you go after market wheels.
 
Be careful with the newer XJs (I thihnk its 97+). The plastic flares and bumper covers take up more room than the older models, so you're more likely to get some rubbage. I added a 3.5" Rustys kit and some 31s. I never measured the backspacing, but they stuck out more than stock. The tires were all over the flare portion of the front bumper cover, I had to remove that crap. I then added a 1" spacer to the front, now I have some DW to deal with.
 
'98 XJ

On a 98XJ using the stock wheels and 31s a 4.5" lift would be best to insure you are going to clear everything at full articulation. You still might hit the edges of the from bumper.

brake lines also may become an issue regarding length, so before you wheel it flex it out and make sure your not going to use either your shocks or your brake lines as limiting straps.
 
Thanks for all the info y'all! Hmm, so, main concerns are control arms, front bumper flares, fender flare contact, brakelines, and shocks?

What's the best way to keep off the arms? Are the Grand Cherokee style arms a direct swap or would we be better off just going with rims with less backspacing?

Little front bumper flares ought not be an issue, aftermarket bumpers are planned, or at least de-plastification of the stock bumpers.

Fender flares, hmm, if we extend the bumpstops by about 2" would that be enough to keep off 'em?

Brakelines I'd get extended ones, shocks, probably Bilstien 5100's in appropriate lengths (had 'em on my ZJ, I liked 'em!).

I'd really like to keep the lift fairly low since it's gonna be a DD, with only some offroad. We've already got a main offroad toy, so, this one would just be as a fun little easy trail runner. :driver:


Thanks y'all for all the info and tips! Keep 'em coming! I'm trying to get a real good idea of what the game plan is before I go out and buy a bunch of stuff that doesn't work. Thanks y'all!
 
87GMCJimmy said:
Thanks for all the info y'all! Hmm, so, main concerns are control arms, front bumper flares, fender flare contact, brakelines, and shocks?
What's the best way to keep off the arms? Are the Grand Cherokee style arms a direct swap or would we be better off just going with rims with less backspacing?
Little front bumper flares ought not be an issue, aftermarket bumpers are planned, or at least de-plastification of the stock bumpers.
Fender flares, hmm, if we extend the bumpstops by about 2" would that be enough to keep off 'em?
Brakelines I'd get extended ones, shocks, probably Bilstien 5100's in appropriate lengths (had 'em on my ZJ, I liked 'em!).
I'd really like to keep the lift fairly low since it's gonna be a DD, with only some offroad. We've already got a main offroad toy, so, this one would just be as a fun little easy trail runner. :driver:
Thanks y'all for all the info and tips! Keep 'em coming! I'm trying to get a real good idea of what the game plan is before I go out and buy a bunch of stuff that doesn't work. Thanks y'all!
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sounds like you're building my XJ...I havent wheeled it at all, brake lines are still stock, in the stock location. I have some kind of disconnects, they came with brake line bracket relocators, I havent put them on yet.
My lift included longer fixed LCAs and shocks. The guy also had a RE tracbar (model 1600 I think) he added to the deal.
My wheels have a lot less backspacing than stock, thats why they swing into the front bumper covers (no problem with LCA). The flares are still clear, I just used an aftermarket double tube bumper I bought from a boardmember. I have actaully bought everything on nc4x4 or craigslist, this is truly a budget build.
 
i didnt take time to read others posts but heres what i have to say

the RE kit is awesome you will love it compared to other kits

3.5 RE kit
31 inch goodyear mtr's
shop around and find some moab pull offs and youll be set!
you would have a clean lil xj.
 
chromerunner said:
i didnt take time to read others posts but heres what i have to say
the RE kit is awesome you will love it compared to other kits
3.5 RE kit
31 inch goodyear mtr's
shop around and find some moab pull offs and youll be set!
you would have a clean lil xj.
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Hmm, that sounds about perfect right there! :D

Thanks for the input everybody! Now all I have to do is save up some $! Easier said than done! :rolleyes:
 
Im right there with ya on the xj i just got an 00 classic, i want to run 32 11.50 on a 4.5" RC lift. I have heard you guys talk about slip yoke elim kit, do you need it or is it a recommend? if so whicj brand is good im building a DD
thanks
 
SYE brands

Cherokee81 said:
Im right there with ya on the xj i just got an 00 classic, i want to run 32 11.50 on a 4.5" RC lift. I have heard you guys talk about slip yoke elim kit, do you need it or is it a recommend? if so whicj brand is good im building a DD
thanks
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Hey 81, I'm a wrangler guy. Not too knowledgeable on lift subject. I did however do some research, on SYE brands. I have not done the upgrade, yet. But I did find out, that Advance Adapters brand is the best deal for the money. Any of the ones, that are cheaper will come with A smaller diameter main shaft. These will likely be made in china, as well. Heat treatment standards, in china are questionable at best. Advance Adapters, is the company that makes the Atlas II transfer case, that everybody wants Santa Claus to bring them. Their SYE is only A little bit more$$$ than say Rugged Ridge. Well worth the peace of mind. Lets put it this way, the only reason I didn't get the SYE, is because I'm thinking about the Atlas II.
 
for the xj's go to NAXJA.org. There's more than enough info on XJ's there. with anymore than 3.5" lift you need a SYE. You can make one for the cost of a cutoff wheel, a 3/8" drill bit, a new driveshaft for the rear (one off of a front zj works well), and a bolt. Even buying a hack and tap style SYE is cheaper and plently strong. pm me if you want anymore info about XJ's, they're kind of my thing.
 
^im on 6.5 and no SYE or tcase drop..........each ckee is there own. some cant some can . i would recomend sye over 4inchs. but it depends on what u do with it also
 
thanx for the info chromerunner, im planning on a 4.5 lift and its going to be a daily driver and weekend offroader
 
chromerunner said:
^im on 6.5 and no SYE or tcase drop..........each ckee is there own. some cant some can . i would recomend sye over 4inchs. but it depends on what u do with it also
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Mine at 6" had severe vibrations and excessive U-Joint bind while braking. I installed a Hack and Tap SYE with a front XJ auto driveshaft vib free since. I think I would have been OK with just the t-case drop and degree shims if I had a NP231 case.
 
rob92xj said:
Mine at 6" had severe vibrations and excessive U-Joint bind while braking. I installed a Hack and Tap SYE with a front XJ auto driveshaft vib free since. I think I would have been OK with just the t-case drop and degree shims if I had a NP231 case.
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ive found each is differnt. ive worked on 3.5 lifts and BB that went crazy with no tcase drop also.
 
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