XJ with Bronco Axle oweners

family xj

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2006
Location
Jacksonville NC
I am looking at putting these in mine. I seen a couple pics of someone around Raleigh that had them. It was in the rock garden. My thoughts are to cut the ends off the radius arms and extend them and add heim joints. I just have some questions for those running that type of set up. If you or a buddy has them let me know so I can get with you about the set up. I was going to build all new long arms for the 30 front but I can get the axles and strength for about the same price give of take a couple 100 $. Let me know

This is the one I was refering to
http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13558&page=23

Doug
 
i havn't done it yet but i will be putting bronco 44 and 9 under a yj. i'll let you know how it works out.
 
I think it would be easier on the Cherokee since you don't have to make mounts for the Coils. The coils will bow a little but do work. I will be using the radius arms like I said. I'm going to see a very wise man in the 4wheel industry this week that has been doing lifts since the 80's, when there weren't any kits really availible. Seams pretty easy though.
 
Doug, anything is feasible. Just remember, with the unibody, you will have to do a heck of a lot of reinforcing. If you notice in the pictures, the has gussetts for the radius arms tied into his exo cage. That would be an awesome setup. Just letting you know, it looks easier that what it really is.
 
It is not too bad, we have done it in the past. We used the stock F-150 radius arms and also a set of Duff's radius arms to do it in the past.

Just make sure you get the castor correct with weight sitting on the suspension before to finally weld the bracketry on.

Andy
 
You really need to do a little work with the factory arms to get them up higher than the crossmember, but they will set inside the rails. The extensions you build for the arms will need a little bend in them to get the correct castor, and get the arms high enough.
 
As Andy said, When you build your arms be sure to add a little caster. You can get C bushings up to 7*. That may not be enough. I rotated the wedges on my full width axle and plan on adding 5* to my arms I build. That way I can tune it with the bushings. I don't think too much is bad as long as you don't compromise your pinion angle.
 
family xj said:
I think it would be easier on the Cherokee since you don't have to make mounts for the Coils. The coils will bow a little but do work. I will be using the radius arms like I said. I'm going to see a very wise man in the 4wheel industry this week that has been doing lifts since the 80's, when there weren't any kits really availible. Seams pretty easy though.
Click to expand...

One thing about using factory coil buckets... The eb width and the full width axles have different coil spring spacing, and the coil retainer is on the radius arm so that makes it harder to move (unless you have an axle with removable wedges). Plus the ford coil has a larger diameter up top than the xj's so it might not sit right. Or are you planning on using xj coils?

It's really not hard to put the radius arms in...the real pita will be matching brake lines/steering linkages/drivelines up. And as has been said, don't use stock arms...you'll have no steering travel, no flex, and poor caster.
 
The plan is to cut off the ends of the stock radius arms and extend them then use either johnny joints or Heims. I will also make a new crossmember for them to attach to inside the frame rail and incorporate frame stiffeners. As for coils i am going to run my 6.5" RK Springs and utilize their Drop pitman arm. Which i believe will give around 8" of lift with the way the spring buckets are on the axle/radius arms. I think the steering should be pretty simple for the most part. The link I posted shows some good ideas. I have some other pics of steering changes that I like and most made their own Linkages. My only real down fall is I have to depend on my buddy to do the welding for me.
 
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