YJ motorcraft 2100 swap problems, need help/local shop

[rolledthatho]

Does anyone know of a shop(or someones garage) i dont really care, that has or would know what the carter bbd to MC2100 swap should look like? i have just finished mine...I THINK, and the carb needs tuning, it runs kinda rough.

for those of you who dont know the swap, i had to take out all emissions and left over vacume hoses. so there is a lot of stuff that needs to be capped off so i dont have vacume leaks. it only has a couple vacume lines now, ported, manifold. i think there is a dizzy advance, and that might be it. i just need someone who has done this to look at it and browse my handy work, and fine tune things. i dont mind throwing someone some money. shouldnt take more than 30 mins to an hour i wouldnt think.

im local to winston salem, greensboro, high point but jeep dosent have insurance or tags so the closer the better

thanks in advance


PS someone before referred me to a couple guys from old town shell off university but when i called they were quoting like 200 just in la

 

[atblis]

Fix it yourself

Fix it yourself. That's perhaps the easy carb to work on.

Plenty of write ups on the net.

If you're talking about a rough idle, tuning will not fix that (jets and power valve). Except if the power valve is ruptured.

Definitely fix any and all vacuum leaks before making any attempts to "tune" anything.

 

[rolledthatho]

Fix it yourself. That's perhaps the easy carb to work on.
Plenty of write ups on the net.
If you're talking about a rough idle, tuning will not fix that (jets and power valve). Except if the power valve is ruptured.
Definitely fix any and all vacuum leaks before making any attempts to "tune" anything.

no one is contesting that its an easy carb to work on, and thats not ness. my problem. its a brand new carb, and i tore a lot of stuff out of my jeep to put it in there. so someone in the area who has done it and knows what all needs to be capped off and what goes where, could take a look at it and make sure i have done it right. Vacume leaks are what im trying to figure out, i tore out like 20 vacume lines and im down to two or three, before my friend messed with it, it was idling high and dieseling when i cut it off. now it dosent do that, but still needs to be figured out (vacume lines mainly)

i also dont mind paying someone who knows what they are doin a little money to set it up and make it run in an optimal manor.

so the offer still stands, btw feel free to post all these write ups on the net, hopefully it will be one i havent seen before, i have the copy the guy on ebay sends with his mc2100 swap "kits"

 

[atblis]

Yeah

Well, cap/plug off everything except connect the vacuum advance for the distributor and the PCV system. Nothing else matters actually. Later you can figure out how to hook up the emissions/fuel vent crap if you like.

That JB steel putty stuff work nicely for plugging up large holes that you don't need anymore.

 

[buckshot500]

MC2100

Prolly wont be able to make it over there, to help, but this may help.http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735139&highlight=MC2100 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=900083&highlight=MC2100 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=881458&highlight=MC2100 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=594641&highlight=MC2100 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=891537&highlight=MC2100 http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm http://www.greatcj8.com/mc2100tuning.htm http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=656400&highlight=mc2100+jets+altitude http://autorepair.about.com/cs/trou...w.carburetor.ca/carbs/tech/Ford/2-barrel.html http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/motorcraft-2100-carburetor-38384.html There is A lot of info, @ J/U yj tech, sign up, & use the search key! Also, have you done the "Nutter Bypass"? Google it! BTW, all of these links have useful info!

 

[rolledthatho]

Prolly wont be able to make it over there, to help, but this may help.http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735139&highlight=MC2100 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=900083&highlight=MC2100 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=881458&highlight=MC2100 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=594641&highlight=MC2100 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=891537&highlight=MC2100 http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm http://www.greatcj8.com/mc2100tuning.htm http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=656400&highlight=mc2100+jets+altitude http://autorepair.about.com/cs/trou...w.carburetor.ca/carbs/tech/Ford/2-barrel.html http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/motorcraft-2100-carburetor-38384.html There is A lot of info, @ J/U yj tech, sign up, & use the search key! Also, have you done the "Nutter Bypass"? Google it! BTW, all of these links have useful info!

hey man, yes ive read a couple of those write ups im a lifetime member at jeepforums, and have posted on there too. i really appreciate you taking the time for those links, ill check them out tomm at work and go from there.

also my main problem is i started this project over a year ago, and tore out all these vacume lines. and i dont even remember what i took out, i know what i need but i want to cap everything else off, so i dont have any leaks. would you have a list off the top of your head of things that need to be capped or taken out?

thanks again

 

[buckshot500]

hey man, would you have a list off the top of your head of things that need to be capped or taken out? Thanks again

Don't have A list, but will try to help. Carb, is where vacuum is pulled from. Anything that operates off of vacuum, does so because carb tells it to. So to make this easy, if you cap all the ports, ( hose barbs) on the carb, then only use the ones you need, it should work fine. The barb, on the passenger side (below the choke) is the one for the distributor advance. It is ported, only drawing vacuum, after throttle plates open. ( to A given degree) Tee into this line, the CTO switch. Try to find the diagram for the CTO. I'll try to describe it, it has five ports, three in front, two behind. Looks like there could be six, but the upper left one is not there. So the next one to it's right, & the lower rightmost one, get tee'd in to the distributer hose (ported vac) the upper right one goes to the EGR valve. the lower one (center) goes to the front port on the evap,(charcoal canester). The one on the lower left, is unused. EVAP can, 2nd hose back, goes to tee into the PCV line. The third hose back, goes to the fuel tank. The last one back, goes to the carb bowl vent, if it has a barb. If the carb bowl vent has no barb, the cap the last one back, on the EVAP can. In those links, (cant remember which one) there is A thread by Jason w. that shows a close up of his carb. You will see my comment about the dist. line. It should be on the left side of the pic. (pass. side) the one down in front, near the manifold carb flange is for other items, like the front axle disco. If you have brake booster, it should connect to the large barb in the back of carb. [Tee in the PCV line from the valve cover to this.] This line can also be connected right to the manifold. Also possible to drill the adapter plate, & pipe thread a barb there. Post back, if any more questions, I don't mind. It's tough to find all the answers, I have already found most of them, & enjoy sharing such things! BTW, this carb swap works really well, with two other upgrades. Nutter Bypass, & TEAM RUSH Ignition upgrade. Have Answers here as well!

 

[rolledthatho]

thanks so much man you have been a big help, only thing now is so much of that stuff you named i dont have anymore, i tore it all out, like the install i have said. wish the install directions were a little more specific on this part or the install though haha

so basically i dont have that 5 prong vac thing anymore, i dont have any of my emissions stuff egr etc..

but i will cap off everything on the carb i dont need and go from there, then report back im about to go check it out now.


thanks again for helping

 

[Caver Dave]

Since I feel kinda guilty for leaving you hanging (sorry, have been SLAMMED for months), let me ask a few questions. Since you didn't mention in this post & I'm to lazy to search from last year , let's go back to the details...

- What venturi size 2100? Should have 1.08 (1.02 will work also) cast into the side... anything larger than 1.08 is not going to work...
- "New" carb? Since this is unlikely (haven't been made since 1985) From where?
- Did you swap the power valve as many swaps indicate is needed?
- By "running rough", specifically what do you mean? If it won't idle down, that's the sign of a vacuum leak... either an open line or at the adapter. If it's stumbling on accel, potential tuning issue (accel pump guts/linkage or jetting)

Where are you located again? Seems you're south of W-S?

 

[buckshot500]

thanks so much man you have been a big help, only thing now is so much of that stuff you named i dont have anymore, i tore it all out, like the install i have said. wish the install directions were a little more specific on this part or the install though haha
so basically i dont have that 5 prong vac thing anymore, i dont have any of my emissions stuff egr etc..
but i will cap off everything on the carb i dont need and go from there, then report back im about to go check it out now.
thanks again for helping

Anything you don't have, is all stuff that won't leak vacuum! One thing, I don't know what to do about, is the fuel tank vent line, that goes to the charcoal canister. I guess the line would be left open, & the end mounted higher than the tank, away from heat, & spark sources. PCV, Distributer advance, & brake booster,(if equipped) should be hooked up.

 

[1980CJ7]

Since I feel kinda guilty for leaving you hanging (sorry, have been SLAMMED for months), let me ask a few questions. Since you didn't mention in this post & I'm to lazy to search from last year , let's go back to the details...
- What venturi size 2100? Should have 1.08 (1.02 will work also) cast into the side... anything larger than 1.08 is not going to work...
- "New" carb? Since this is unlikely (haven't been made since 1985) From where?
- Did you swap the power valve as many swaps indicate is needed?
- By "running rough", specifically what do you mean? If it won't idle down, that's the sign of a vacuum leak... either an open line or at the adapter. If it's stumbling on accel, potential tuning issue (accel pump guts/linkage or jetting)
Where are you located again? Seems you're south of W-S?

I'd like to add a couple points here...
My jeep has no emissions on it either ...there are only 2 vacuum hoses connected...the ported vacuum from the rt side base of the carb to the distributor, and the big PCV hose to the valve cover. (no power brakes) everything else is capped.

Also, my carb is a 1.14 with #47 jets and it runs like a charm.
If you connect a vacuum gauge to the manifold, you should see about 18-20 inches of vacuum at idle.

 

[atblis]

The difference between the 1.14 and 1.08 in CFMs is not much.
1.08 = 287 cfm
1.14 = 300 cfm
1.21 = 351 cfm