Yukon hcore hub issue

XJsavage

XJsavage

CounterCulture
Joined
Aug 15, 2009
Location
Lyle's Ford SC
I'm running a set of 35 spline Yukon hardcore hubs on my Dana 60. I'm trying to figure out why after a 30+ mile drive one of the locking hubs wants to partially engage into the lock position. I'll be driving along and hear a gut wrenching chatter coming from the front so I immediately pull over to investigate and see that the dial is turned nearly to "lock" position. The stub shafts are Yukon chromoly and the hubs are OEM new stock 60 hubs from wfo concepts. My first suspect is the large internal spring on the one side that isn't putting enough pressure towards the outer gear. What are your thoughts on this? Is it a common problem and who sells just replacement springs for these locking hubs?
 
Worthy mention: these have only about 100 road miles on them and I've only engaged into lock position intentionally twice.
 
Its in there unless I managed to drop it or something.
 
Note: The installed driver must have less then 0.200” f loat between the retainer plate and spacer when installed into the hub. If more then 0.200” of float can be measured check the part number against the application guide found on page 2 and contact Technical Service
From the instruction manual
 
Going to tear into it tonight. Thanks for the help sir.
 
It's probably the stationary axle shaft making the hub turn. I've had some 35 spline Warn hubs do it too. The chatter is obviously a partially engaged hub.
 
OK, I'm still catching hell with these little ninnies. I dissasembled both locking hubs this morning just to check a few things. Spacers are in place, all snap rings seated, everything greased well. The cam gear is giving the 3/16-1/4" gap between engagement positions.The springs still seem strange to me. The driver side still wants to engage into lock while driving down the road. I locked both hubs today and bashed around on a rock garden at a friends shop and could not forcibly disengage the hubs when I tried. It took three people rocking/shifting the trans to get them to come unlocked. I suppose I'll try replacing the springs. No idea what else to do.
 
Not much help, but I had a set of 35 spline warns that did the same thing, I never did figure out what caused it.
 
Ill do whatever I can to avoid cutting my stub down. :eek:
 
I just installed a set of these brand new out of the box and the passenger side engages sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. So you replaced the big spring and it fixed the issue?
 
ghost said:
I just installed a set of these brand new out of the box and the passenger side engages sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. So you replaced the big spring and it fixed the issue?
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Yes I did. I called Randy's r&p and told them about the damage in transit and they sent two new springs free of charge. After replacing them the hub's worked great.
 
Unintentionally engaging and not engaging seem like two opposite problems.

I'm somewhat surprised that the springs fixed the unintentional engaging problem. I'm still trying to wrap my head around that from a mechanical standpoint.
 
Fabrik8 said:
Unintentionally engaging and not engaging seem like two opposite problems.

I'm somewhat surprised that the springs fixed the unintentional engaging problem. I'm still trying to wrap my head around that from a mechanical standpoint.
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The spring is the heart and soul of the hub. My issue was the warped spring was binding inside of the axle hub and applying uneven pressure to the locking hub face. His issue would also be binding but during compression and not letting the hub face to go all the way into lock position.
 
XJsavage said:
The spring is the heart and soul of the hub. My issue was the warped spring was binding inside of the axle hub and applying uneven pressure to the locking hub face. His issue would also be binding but during compression and not letting the hub face to go all the way into lock position.
Click to expand...

Sounds like they really need to change to a wave spring stack to make the force square up better. Or make the hub plate longer so it doesn't jamb from out-of-square spring force. I vote for a wave spring, which is a drop-in replacement.

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awww.smalley.com_sites_default_files_sites_default_files_C2C_Plain_330.png
 
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I wonder if that spring was put in wrong and that could be my issue?
 
From the assembly manual I looked at, one end of the spring was closed (shut end) so if the other end isn't a closed end, and you put the spring in backwards...
 
Fabrik8 said:
From the assembly manual I looked at, one end of the spring was closed (shut end) so if the other end isn't a closed end, and you put the spring in backwards...
Click to expand...
Do you mean solid? seems like I remember it being just a normal big ass hub spring and a PITA to get in there.
 
ghost said:
Do you mean solid? seems like I remember it being just a normal big ass hub spring and a PITA to get in there.
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No, solid means something totally different for springs. I'm talking about the end of the spring, whether it is closed or open. That changes the seating characteristics.

I did go back and look at the Yukon D60 install manual, and it says the spring is symmetric, so that throws my theory out the window.

Link to PDF:
https://www.yukongear.com/downloads/manuals/d60 hardcore locking hubs install.pdf
 
Fabrik8 said:
I did go back and look at the Yukon D60 install manual, and it says the spring is symmetric, so that throws my theory out the window.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure most here are smart enough to put a spring in correctly. It doesn't take an engineer to do that ya know. :flipoff2:
 
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