Chains or straps

skyhighZJ

skyhighZJ

Thanks for your taxes
Joined
May 31, 2012
Location
Aberdeen, NC.
So I need to trailer my Kubota L2501 w/. FEL

I understand the concept of where to attach and how. My question is are 10k ratcheting straps enough or do I need to use chains and binders. Straps I have (plenty of!) Some chain, but l, I have but no binders. This will be a multi hour trip. Do I need to invest in more chain and binders? I know this may sound dumb but I want to be safe. From the interwebs I’m looking at 2,600 plus the few hundred the FEL weighs.
 
I use straps on my Ford 8n. About 2400. With my 6’ box blade I’d guess I’m at about 3k lbs. I think as long as you use two front two rear straps would be fine.
 
Straps are fine. My Jeep is around 6K and never had an issue. As was posted, as long as they are not rubbing anything that will cut them. Strap forward, and back, not crisscrossed, and you shouldn't have any issue. Stop after 10 miles or so and check for tightness, and every time you stop to fuel, pee or eat. They will stretch some is the reason fr that.
 
I chained my excavator just because it was heavy. My tractor usually got chains, but because they were in the trailer box. Vehicles always get straps.
 
I like chains on things without suspension, and straps on things with suspension.
 
Chains and binders for me (and I have the same 2501/FEL).

Straps over the bucket and whatever implement is attached. I have heard they are/aren't required based on machine weight, but years ago had a friendly(?) DMV officer suggest that I had better have them next time he saw me.
 
Southern_Transplant said:
I prefer straps. Chains pinch the skin too much to be 'playful'. Wait.... That's not what this thread is about is it?

Nevermind, nothing to add here. Probably best to go chains and binders for safety during the long haul.
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But it is *supposed* to hurt. Now call me "Daddy"...
 
jeepinmatt said:
I like chains on things without suspension, and straps on things with suspension.
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This is my approach. For all the reasons mentioned. Sharp stuff, irregular shapes, very odd angles, and high clamping loads.

With straps and hook arrangement using the axle wraps with ends helps. Still the load on the stitched wrap at the ratchet junction has a very high shear and cutting force applied. The strap will retain stupid weight but cutting them cancels all of it. I like to think in terms of personally derating the strap when in serious angles and supper taught over its own designed edges. INSERT WILD DESIGN IDEA: Why don't most straps use a rounded edge or sleeve over stamped metal design at the ratchet or hook ends? I can only determine that the extra folds or material needed to get the stitching in a shear would be harder to execute.

Chains typically don't give a crap on hauled loads. Steep angle, Square edge chaffing, UV damage, Chemicals..... Binders. Retarded torque and load tension over a stamped metal ratchet assembly. I've personally blew up a couple ratchet frames using just the handle and one hand. It buckled well before the rated strap was damaged.
 
Okay, so with a bunch of votes toward chain it doesn’t hurt my feelings to upgrade my load securement portfolio. Now, ratchet binders or old school snap style?

And…… argue!
 
skyhighZJ said:
Okay, so with a bunch of votes toward chain it doesn’t hurt my feelings to upgrade my load securement portfolio. Now, ratchet binders or old school snap style?

And…… argue!
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Every delivery I get or send to Sunbelt is a ratchet. Sometimes the big winch too. Snap style is plain aggravation. If those fellas delivering everything under the "Sunbelt" its good for me.
 
Only reason I ask is it seems the slightest bit of mud or grit and the threads or selector for the ratchet gets bound up. Friday morning unloading the D-6 turned into a total PIA cause of this.
 
skyhighZJ said:
Okay, so with a bunch of votes toward chain it doesn’t hurt my feelings to upgrade my load securement portfolio. Now, ratchet binders or old school snap style?

And…… argue!
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Ratchet all the way. The snap type ones are dumb. They are always either too tight, or too loose. And there’s no good way to adjust that.

@braxton357 turned me on to these, and in my opinion, they are the best thing out there for the money:
www.myteeproducts.com

Peerless Folding Handle QuikBinder Plus Ratchet Binder

Working Load Limit: 7100 lbs, 12000 lbs & 18100 lbs Chain Size Compatibility: 5/16" to 5/8" G70 & G80 Chains Vinyl Coated Barrel - Strong & Comfortable Grip 3 Position Pawl with 3 Gears Folded Handle Length: 9.5" Straight Handle Length: 13.9" Tamper Proof Locking Mechanism Meets DOT & CVSA...
www.myteeproducts.com www.myteeproducts.com

Folding handle, neutral position for quickly spinning them up, and a nice rubber grip for when they are wet or you have muddy hands.
 
1-tonmudder said:
I use straps.BUT IIRC @Hokie_YJ had a wreck coming back from a harlan one time and the straps loosened and/or came off his Jeep.
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One axle strap broke on the rear and the buggy slid to the side 3-4”. Luckily the other 3 held and it stayed in the trailer.
 
Hokie_YJ said:
One axle strap broke on the rear and the buggy slid to the side 3-4”. Luckily the other 3 held and it stayed in the trailer.
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Been there done that. I forcefully loaded an XJ into the back of my ZJ one night at about 0200. Rear strap broke and the roll was enough to snap the front.
 
@Curtis_H talked me into a set of these. And they are the ticket. I know full chains have their places. But this setup allows you to have enough chain to prevent straps running. Plenty of chain to loop around axles or stake pockets
 

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