Project "Armageddon" Quigley E250

hunterdan

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Location
Morganton,NC
Well I just picked up a beat up e250 Quigley 4x4. According to my calculations.....I think the world should end within 2-3 years. Maybe this will be ready by then. I plan to ad pics of progress while begging everyone for help when I get stuck. Here's how she sits. Glad to hear any comments good or bad. I have no idea what I'm looking at as far as trans and t case models, frt and rear diff models etc. Any help with identifying appreciated and I'll add to description below. I'm gonna run to town and get a tetnis shot real quick.lol

86 E250
351
Quigley 4x4 conversion
Dana 60 rear
44 frt (F250 low pinion)
C6 AT
Borg 1345 t case
 

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Looks like a 60 rear and 44 front.
 
It's a c6 with a borg 1345 tcase with what looks like a low pinion f250 d44 front that is missing it's drag link which would make for some interesting handling.

I've never seen a Quigley not rusted to death
Thanks for pointing that missing drag link out.lol
I've seen better and worse than this one. A worse one I wouldn't have...a better one I can't justify the $.
 
I'm not sure how many inches of lift is on it. Maybe quigley had a standard for these?
Anyway, it has 265/70/16's on it now. What could I stuff in there. Any guesses?
I plan to start searching for some 8x6.5 x16/17 wheels and tires soon. I'm not sure what width rim or offsets etc. I did read that Chevy and dodge 8 lug wheels will fit. Then I read Chevy won't fit due to center hole is too small. The tire wheel combo with widths and offsets etc. is always aggravating.
 
I'm not sure how many inches of lift is on it. Maybe quigley had a standard for these?
Anyway, it has 265/70/16's on it now. What could I stuff in there. Any guesses?
I plan to start searching for some 8x6.5 x16/17 wheels and tires soon. I'm not sure what width rim or offsets etc. I did read that Chevy and dodge 8 lug wheels will fit. Then I read Chevy won't fit due to center hole is too small. The tire wheel combo with widths and offsets etc. is always aggravating.
Iā€™ve got some 16ā€ Chevy 8x6.5 steelies if you want to try one out and see if it fits.
 
Since this van has sat for 18yrs I'm going to do a check list before trying to start it. If anyone thinks I've missed something or something is overkill please say so. It was supposedly driven to where I picked it up in Hickory 18 yrs ago and was running fine. The owner who passed in September had removed interior and was.plaanningnto turn into a camper van. His plans fell through due to personal issues and so it sat. Some things I've noted; 1)Antifreeze is nice and green
2)Oil looks like honey but seems a tad thick or degrading
3)AT fluid looks fresh

I'm planning to change,
Oil and filter
Air filter,fuel filter(s)
Plugs,wires
New battery
New belts
Remove and clean/replace fuel tank and fresh gas

Ok, so I was thinking after the above I would turn engine over for a few cycles of 15-20 seconds to help lubricate top end before actually cranking. Maybe by unplugging distributor?
Also, I was told to put a teaspoon of marvel mystery oil in each plug hole 24hrs before cranking. (ANY OPINIONS ON THAT?)

Any info is appreciated. I admit I'm a novice...
 
Def drop the tank and clean. Blow out the fuel lines from the front if you can. Eastwood has a great sealer you may want to use for the tank. Make sure you have fire before trying to start. I would have someone bump the starter to see if it's locked up or turn it by the crank manually if you don't know already. If you want to circulate the oil first, remove plugs so you're not fighting compression. Once you're ready to try to start, a quick shot of starter fluid will wake it up. Be ready to film it because some times they fire right up and that's the fun part!
 
Since this van has sat for 18yrs I'm going to do a check list before trying to start it. If anyone thinks I've missed something or something is overkill please say so. It was supposedly driven to where I picked it up in Hickory 18 yrs ago and was running fine. The owner who passed in September had removed interior and was.plaanningnto turn into a camper van. His plans fell through due to personal issues and so it sat. Some things I've noted; 1)Antifreeze is nice and green
2)Oil looks like honey but seems a tad thick or degrading
3)AT fluid looks fresh

I'm planning to change,
Oil and filter
Air filter,fuel filter(s)
Plugs,wires
New battery
New belts
Remove and clean/replace fuel tank and fresh gas

Ok, so I was thinking after the above I would turn engine over for a few cycles of 15-20 seconds to help lubricate top end before actually cranking. Maybe by unplugging distributor?
Also, I was told to put a teaspoon of marvel mystery oil in each plug hole 24hrs before cranking. (ANY OPINIONS ON THAT?)

Any info is appreciated. I admit I'm a novice...
Check out this guys channel. Starting abandoned cars are his thing. https://www.youtube.com/@ThisNThatGarage
 
Def drop the tank and clean. Blow out the fuel lines from the front if you can. Eastwood has a great sealer you may want to use for the tank. Make sure you have fire before trying to start. I would have someone bump the starter to see if it's locked up or turn it by the crank manually if you don't know already. If you want to circulate the oil first, remove plugs so you're not fighting compression. Once you're ready to try to start, a quick shot of starter fluid will wake it up. Be ready to film it because some times they fire right up and that's the fun part!
Great suggestions. After cleaning out the van I found the gas tank and a tank sealer kit under some plastic sheetingšŸ‘
I think he already redid the tank so that saves me a number of steps.
I did find lots of nuts,bolts and miscellaneous small suspension pieces. Everything went in a storage bin. I've thrown things away in the past that were like hens teeth to re-obtain. Even things as simple as specialty bolts etc.
A couple pics I took were to see if parts can be identified by anyone? One pic looks like a blue sway bar? Another is some kind of complicated electrical harness of sorts? I'm hoping the grey bar next to the blue one is my missing trac bar. Rained out so have to check later...
Here are those pics and some progress pics.

Oh yeah...lots of vodka bottles which I imagine had a part in him not finishing the rebuild. I'm so glad to finally be free from that burden. God is good
 

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Great suggestions. After cleaning out the van I found the gas tank and a tank sealer kit under some plastic sheetingšŸ‘
I think he already redid the tank so that saves me a number of steps.
I did find lots of nuts,bolts and miscellaneous small suspension pieces. Everything went in a storage bin. I've thrown things away in the past that were like hens teeth to re-obtain. Even things as simple as specialty bolts etc.
A couple pics I took were to see if parts can be identified by anyone? One pic looks like a blue sway bar? Another is some kind of complicated electrical harness of sorts? I'm hoping the grey bar next to the blue one is my missing trac bar. Rained out so have to check later...
Here are those pics and some progress pics.

Oh yeah...lots of vodka bottles which I imagine had a part in him not finishing the rebuild. I'm so glad to finally be free from that burden. God is good


Throw that tank in the scrap yard, that shit will be flaking off for the next decade and it probably still leaks. A brand new tank on rock auto is $80. Definitely put the sway bar and trac bar back on, if you can find bushings. Otherwise it is a very simple to build item.
If the engine hoist was also in the van that's concerning
 
I second trashing the gas tank. Iā€™ve seen that liner shit in many motorcycle tanks and it can be a nightmare
 
Throw that tank in the scrap yard, that shit will be flaking off for the next decade and it probably still leaks. A brand new tank on rock auto is $80. Definitely put the sway bar and trac bar back on, if you can find bushings. Otherwise it is a very simple to build item.
If the engine hoist was also in the van that's concerning
Yep I've already been searching gas tanks. That rock auto price beats the ones I found at about $120.
As far as the cherry picker I thought the same thing. He swears it ran well when parked there but who knows?
If motor's bad ...I didn't pay much so I'll recoup it on FB.
Man? A detective would surmise...bumper removed, trac bar, sway bar and some end links...cherry pickeršŸ™ Motor probably was coming out....
I'm still gonna try and crank it. Maybe it runs fine and he had dreams of bigger/badder
 
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Yep I've already been searching gas tanks. That rock auto price beats the ones I found at about $120.
As far as the cherry picker I thought the same thing. He swears it ran well when parked there but who knows?
If motor's bad ...I didn't pay much so I'll recoup it on FB.
Man? A detective would surmise...bumper removed, trac bar, sway bar and some end links...cherry pickeršŸ™ Motor probably was coming out....
I'm still gonna try and crank it. Maybe it runs fine and he had dreams of bigger/badder
Before you buy a tank or anything I would get it started. That way if the motors bad and you decide to flip it you won't be out the money for high $ parts. That link I posted, the guy shows how to rig up a temporary gas jug.
 
Before you buy a tank or anything I would get it started. That way if the motors bad and you decide to flip it you won't be out the money for high $ parts. That link I posted, the guy shows how to rig up a temporary gas jug.
Good thinking sir...will do and thanks.
 
Ok, I may become a ford man.
Check out this guys channel. Starting abandoned cars are his thing. https://www.youtube.com/@ThisNThatGarage
Thanks for the link to this fella. After watching a few of his videos I realized he doesn't do much beyond check fluid levels, spark and rotate crank before going for it.
I had planned on changing wires,plugs,oil,filter etc.
which would be silly if it's locked up.
Before you buy a tank or anything I would get it started. That way if the motors bad and you decide to flip it you won't be out the money for high $ parts. That link I posted, the guy shows how to rig up a temporary gas jug.
Since my tank is already removed and no danger of sucking up muck into the carb...I just rigged up a funnel to carb. While cranking with a screwdriver I slowly poured fresh gas and walla it fired up for a bit. After doing that a few times and hearing it idle on its own with no ticking etc. I'm gonna give it a tuneup.
Thanks for the advice. I'll update with any progress
Also, anyone know what the weird pulley system is on rear diff. Failed a Google search
 

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Does the brake line run through it? Proportioning valve if so.
Don't know but I'll check and get back...

Quick novice question. As mentioned I poured gas. In the top of the carb and was able to get it cranked. I poured a decent...probably too much fuel in manually. After getting it running I found that about half the fuel I poured in is in the oil.šŸ™
Here are the questions;
If this vehicle was running good when abandoned 18yrs ago...do I automatically have to get carb rebuilt? OR
Can I remove top of carb...clean out bowl, hook up new gas tank with fresh fuel and roll on?
Maybe change accelerator pump diaphragm?

I know squat about rebuilding a carb. Finding someone who knows and wants to rebuild for me will be like times in the past ...where no one can or will.lol
A rebuilt one on eBay is about $250 after core returned

Carb is a 4 barrel Holley 4180
 
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That valve on the rear is likely a load sensing valve they have them on a lot of the trucks of the 80's. As for the carb. When I redid the Blue horse 84 F150 I had never rebuilt a carb and did that one. It's not that hard. Youtube has lots of info. As for the fuel in oil it bout be stuck rings. when motors sit up a long time the rings will compress and running them can sometimes knock them lose. My 4.0 was like that. One cylinder was low compression. Mechanic friend suggested running it for a bit then recheck. Sure enough compression came back up. Forgot to add. Nice score!
 
Thanks. I've been wanting one of these for a while. Hopefully I won't run into any big expenses.
As far as the carb....I'll probably get everything ready as far as a tuneup etc and see how it goes. Maybe it'll run great? If not I'll probably go the eBay route for carb. Just too many variables with rebuilding one and all the things that can go wrong.
 
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