Dakota SAS exo-cage w/custom bed

that thing is bad. good work.
 
Busted another front driveshaft yoke, so back in the shop to work on finishing the exo, and to install a 231/233 doubler from D.D. machine which will extend my front driveshaft length by about 7.5" so maybe this will stop me front destroying front shafts.
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Kit is very nice looking and seems to be complete, although it does not come with directions, you can find enough info on the web of builds to figure it out.
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Started busting the 231 apart:
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Well just found out that the tcase I got is not a 231 because the spud shaft didn't fit.
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The tag was damaged so I couldn't read it, but the guy that I bought it from told me it was a 231 but apparently it is a 208. I am on the hunt for a 231 again so if anybody has one let me know.
 
Found out the tcase is a 231, just an odd ball with a smaller planetary shaft.
Got some work done on the rear part of the exo. I ran the bracing through the bed and tied into the frame for extra strength. Still have some more cross bracing and gussets to put in, but getting a little accomplished:
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Finshed up what I am planning to do on the exo for now. I am still debating on going around the rear fender flares like I did the front, but I don't want it to start looking like a Frankenstein vehicle. May regret it later, but for now I am choosing form over function.
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[QUOTEWhat do you have over the roof area as far as the inter corners and such?][/QUOTE]

I have some triangles welded in the corners for gussets, but I do still need a little more x-bracing across the top still. Ran out of tubing and need to get another order together.

Picking up another 231 on Monday, so hopefully I will get the doubler done and new crossmember made this week. I am ready to do some more wheeling.
 
Well finally had time to pull it back into the shop to start on the doubler. I got the case busted apart, block off plate welded in and everything mated together. Now just have to put the cases back in the truck, make new crossmembers, new upper link mount, shorten rear shaft and have a new front shaft made. I still have to figure out some sort of lever setup to engage the doubler, but I have some ideas already on that.
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I finally got around to building the cross members for the tcase and doubler. Also got my shifter made for the doubler. I am going to take my shafts to Dave at Olivers to get the lengths change sometime this week.
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Did your catalytic converter "fall off"? If it did, do you have a CEL on? Just curious. I just bought a dakota and my converter is going to fall off.
 
All 3 converters "fell off" with no ill side affects. Not CEL's. I am still running all the O2's and a 2-chamber flowmaster, and have not had any problems. Makes it sound NASTY!
 
All 3 converters "fell off" with no ill side affects. Not CEL's. I am still running all the O2's and a 2-chamber flowmaster, and have not had any problems. Makes it sound NASTY!

All 3? That's a lot of converters. What engine is in yours? Mine's a 99 model with a 318 with one converter and two o2's. It it so rusty that the bolts holding the exhaust to the manifold rusted in two so I'm going back with headers and new exhaust with no cat. I have a one chamber flowmaster that's been sittin in the shop for years just waitin on a home so I think it's going on there. Prob gonna be too loud but I'm gonna try it.
 
Mine is an '01 with the 4.7. They came factory with a spun converter on each side just below the factory exhaust manifolds, then y'ed into a single exhaust which had another conventional converter. It has 4 O2 sensors.
 
Some more pics. Still need to fit a boot for the doubler shifter.
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Mine is an '01 with the 4.7. They came factory with a spun converter on each side just below the factory exhaust manifolds, then y'ed into a single exhaust which had another conventional converter. It has 4 O2 sensors.

I'm surprised with all those converters that you didn't get a CEL. Hopefully I won't have one either. I can't find a tuner that turns off the downstream o2 sensor. If I do get a CEL, I think I'll try the spark flug defouler trick and see if that works.
 
Are you by any chance Keegan's brother?
 
Do you still have your stock rear shackles? I noticed the truck I bought was sitting a little low in the left rear. Crawled under it and one of the shackles was rusted in two. Spring has been riding against the bed floor for quite some time. I can't believe the PO didn't notice it when he was driving it.
 
Do you think the two different style cross members will put alot of stress on the crawler box? the stock cross member is more or less made to isolate vibrations and hold up the trans and transfer case. the cross member you made for the rear transfer case is really going to stop the torque lean of the engine with your crawler box being the weak link. Does that make any sense at all? haha. Im not saying it wont work it just looks like the engine would be able to lean alot more than the rear transfer case...where's the slack going? I'm not trying to knock your build just trying to give you a heads up those 231 housing are thin and weak and your crawler box busting on your first trip would ruin the day and being expensive.
 
I had the same problem with the shackles on mine, one was bad and I chunked the other one so sorry I cannot be any help for you there.
Do you think the two different style cross members will put alot of stress on the crawler box?
I have been thinking about this same issue. I did mine like I have seen a couple of other ones done, but I have the same thoughts about it. I am thinking I am going to just remove one of the bolts out of the back of the transfer case (left one) and only have it mounted from the one closest to the center to carry load only so that it could still twist torsionally. Both mounts have urethane bushings, but I am still concerned about busting a range box if I leave both bolts in.
 
I appreciate any input always to any of my projects. Thanks!
 
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