Engine trouble

Thank you
My $$$ is still on a worn/failed lifter. When he tightened the rocker bolt on the matching worn lifter, it added too much preload. Over the short period of time, it wasted the pushrod and further damaged the lifter and cam.
Those bolts don't just loosen up on their own.
Best case- new cam, lifters and pushrod(s).
Worse case- bottom end failure and wear from contamination.
I'd drain the oil through a coffee filter and inspect closely.
Thank you Jody Treadway your expertise is greatly appreciated
 
My $$$ is still on a worn/failed lifter. When he tightened the rocker bolt on the matching worn lifter, it added too much preload. Over the short period of time, it wasted the pushrod and further damaged the lifter and cam.
Those bolts don't just loosen up on their own.
Best case- new cam, lifters and pushrod(s).
Worse case- bottom end failure and wear from contamination.
I'd drain the oil through a coffee filter and inspect closely.
Mr Treadway since I have to pull the head to replace new lifters (I will replace all lifters with a new cam) should I take the head and have new valves installed?
Parts to replace list:
#1-Rocker Arms and Bridges
#2- Push Rods
#3- Lifters
#4- Camshaft
#5- Head Gasket
#6- New Head Bolts
#7- Manifold Gasket
anything else I'm missing?
I will be able to save a few bucks on parts as my wife is manager at O'Reilly's
any tips, advice, words of wisdom I should know before I jump both elbows deep into this?
 
That's about it for the parts list.
A few tips: the front driver head bolt needs Teflon paste applied to it. Remove the head with the intake and exhaust manifolds attached, makes it much easier. After removing the rockers, when you're ready to remove the head, bolt 2 bridges back on. Wrap a couple heavy this or belts through them and use them as a lifting point.
Aside from that, just follow the manual. It's an easy job.
 
That's about it for the parts list.
A few tips: the front driver head bolt needs Teflon paste applied to it. Remove the head with the intake and exhaust manifolds attached, makes it much easier. After removing the rockers, when you're ready to remove the head, bolt 2 bridges back on. Wrap a couple heavy this or belts through them and use them as a lifting point.
Aside from that, just follow the manual. It's an easy job.
As always Jody Treadway thank you I certainly appreciate your expertise input along with everyone else trying to help
I will drain and filter the oil as you suggested and post a pic of the results in the filter...
Keep your eyes open I may run into trouble in need of help, I hope it goes as smooth as you say lol
when I get it put back together I'll post a reply before I add any fluids oils etc I'd like your opinion on the best oil, fluids, additives oil filter etc I should get before I fire it up I certainly don't want this to happen again if there's anything I can do to prevent it
 
For shits n giggles and why not one last effort before disassembling the engine to remove the head and ordering parts I went and got a rocker kit with bridge and two push rods for one cylinder and installed it poured some MMO in the push rod holes and let it sit for a couple hours put the valve cover back on hooked everything up poured the rest MMO into the oil (which I drained and nothing appeared in the filter as I just changed it about a week or so ago) crossed my fingers prayed to God and turned the key over she fired right up and to my surprise no knock no tick tick tick
"Why do we pray because god can do more in one second than man can do in a lifetime"
Is this a permanent fix I don't know but it sounds better than it ever has since I bought it quite quite quite
We will see how long she holds out
("Aug 28,2021
Milage 118,609")
PS:Money for parts is put aside for if or when that rainy day comes

Video---
 
I'm glad it's not making noise (I didn't say it's repaired) but I'm quite sure you will be replacing the cam and lifters really soon.
Those bolts don't loosen up unless there's a worn lifter underneath them.
 
I'm glad it's not making noise (I didn't say it's repaired) but I'm quite sure you will be replacing the cam and lifters really soon.
Those bolts don't loosen up unless there's a worn lifter underneath them.
I know this to be true from my racing background And building hotrods the 4.0 is new to me it's a love hate relationship I'm growing more fond of the more I learn and empty my pockets become with one thing after another lol it's a jeep thing and I wouldn't part with my jeep for nothing and I know without a doubt Jody Treadway you know exactly what your talking about and that's why I set the money aside within a month or so I may have enough saved for a crate engine if she lasts that long.... luck didn't get me this far God did I'm thankfully blessed and appreciate you and everyone in this forum this is by far the best one I am a member to I don't even go to the others since I found this one you all shoot me straight no BS good or bad you all tell it like it is and that has my utmost respect

Jody Treadway you are the man
 
Too late with this advice, but if you were trying to limp it along a bit - rockauto has a set of 12 lifters for ~$50.
Id ahve at least changed them while you were that far.

Its likely you have a scored cam and it would have failed again still but probably lasted longer.

Also If I got to the place of swapping the camshaft Id replace the timing set as well
 
I just drove 6hrs one way 75-80mph couple hours later drove 6hrs back 75-80mph
No problems it actually runs better more power really smooth and quite just purrs and my gas milage is a lot better than it ever has been
I'm thinking it's the Marvel's Mystery Oil
I kinda don't think there's anything wrong with the cam or lifters not with only 118,000 very mild driven well maintenance I know the history and I'm second owner I think just a fluke that I caught in time and quit driving it not the norm just send it keep driving it tell she breaks naw that ain't funny to me
 
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