jeepin' jen
Slummin' with a sami
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2007
- Location
- Salisbury, NC
Not the handicap rails!!!! Those things saved me from my busting my ass countless times 
Secondhand Tin Can.
- Thread starter Keith1138
- Start date
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
If you were taller you could just grab the cage.... I am planning to leave them sticking out enough to serve as handles for my elders.Not the handicap rails!!!! Those things saved me from my busting my ass countless times
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
As parts arrive the axle is getting assembled to make sure everything plays well together. The current piece of tube for the tie rod is just for mock up. Location for the hydraulic ram has been figured out but tabs can't be installed till the track bar bracket is in its finale resting place.
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
I finally have everything I need to complete this axle and bolt it in. My goal is to get it in by the new year. Things left to do is set the gears up, bolt it in, bump stops, set track bar mount and hydro assist mount. Then figure out limit strap lengths and wheel it.
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
I finally had time to get the front axle in. First portion of the install went great up until I went to align everything. For some reason all of my links were about 2 inches too long to work and didn't have enough adjustment. I think this was a combination of when I made the links the first time trying to keep plenty of thread engament. Mixed with the 44 having larger axle tubes and mounts in slightly different places. After I got the links fixed I was able to get it aligned fairly well. Side to side is with in an 1/8 of each other. The pinion is within 0.5 degrees of being "flat" at ride height which gives me about 6 degrees of caster. The only concerning thing is my front drive shaft only has a inch of slip showing at ride height but I only have 4 inches of up travel.
I'll get pictures to add to this tomorrow. Since posts with out pics are useless lol.
I'll get pictures to add to this tomorrow. Since posts with out pics are useless lol.
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
Second test drive went great. The first one was sketchy the toe was way off. Metal cloak springs and fox shocks ride great.
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
The finale piece arrived today. Hopefully I'll get it in one night this week and I can start fully testing everything.
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
Alot has happened since the last time I updated this.
1) First of which I found my flex plate was cracked and making one hell of a knock. It was easier said than done with me running a one piece crossmember for my link arms and transmission. I took the opportunity to install a barnes 4wd 3 piece crossmember. To make any future transmission work easier. After we installed a new flexplate the starter ring made slight contact with the cps and took it out. It didnt rip it off but scored it pretty bad. I had to shim the new cps with a washer to space it out enough to work.
2) Another thing I accomplished was I finally took the time to shorten my rear quarter pannel rub rails 1.5 inches. This allows my tire to hit before my rub rails make contact.
3) While I was working on my rear quarter pannel armor I took the time to re-configured my rear light set up. I ditched using a 3/4 eagle eye as a dust light and ditched it for a diode dynamic amber LED Pod on either side. The pods are wired to the same flash controller I used with the eagle eyes. I also relocated my turn signal light to below my tail light.
4) I was having an injector issue so I took the opertunity to replace my broken connectors with new pigtails. I also upgraded my injectors to the 4 hole injectors sold by K Suspension. The jeep idles alot smoother and seems to have more power.
5) My jeep had developed a side to side lean in the rear. The ride quality in the rear had also deteriorated. I decided to replace my worn out 3.5 inch RE leaf springs with a 1inch block to some 4.5 inch clayton springs. After I removed the old springs I found one pack was an inch lower than the other. This required me to raise my rear bumpstops about 3/4s of an inch because bumpstops mounted off of the u-bolt plate and im no longer running the 1 inch block. I accomplished this by making a box with threaded inserts.
1) First of which I found my flex plate was cracked and making one hell of a knock. It was easier said than done with me running a one piece crossmember for my link arms and transmission. I took the opportunity to install a barnes 4wd 3 piece crossmember. To make any future transmission work easier. After we installed a new flexplate the starter ring made slight contact with the cps and took it out. It didnt rip it off but scored it pretty bad. I had to shim the new cps with a washer to space it out enough to work.
2) Another thing I accomplished was I finally took the time to shorten my rear quarter pannel rub rails 1.5 inches. This allows my tire to hit before my rub rails make contact.
3) While I was working on my rear quarter pannel armor I took the time to re-configured my rear light set up. I ditched using a 3/4 eagle eye as a dust light and ditched it for a diode dynamic amber LED Pod on either side. The pods are wired to the same flash controller I used with the eagle eyes. I also relocated my turn signal light to below my tail light.
4) I was having an injector issue so I took the opertunity to replace my broken connectors with new pigtails. I also upgraded my injectors to the 4 hole injectors sold by K Suspension. The jeep idles alot smoother and seems to have more power.
5) My jeep had developed a side to side lean in the rear. The ride quality in the rear had also deteriorated. I decided to replace my worn out 3.5 inch RE leaf springs with a 1inch block to some 4.5 inch clayton springs. After I removed the old springs I found one pack was an inch lower than the other. This required me to raise my rear bumpstops about 3/4s of an inch because bumpstops mounted off of the u-bolt plate and im no longer running the 1 inch block. I accomplished this by making a box with threaded inserts.
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
After installing new leaf springs my shackles were not happy. The bushings were completely gone. So I ordered a set of clayton shackles. To me the Clayton's had the best design to allow the leafs springs and bushings to flex. Due to the larger bushing size on the clayton shackles the top interfered with a bolt on the relocation brackets. This caused me to have to use a different hole than I previously used. I think my shackles angle is still going to work.
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2005
- Location
- Stanley, NC
And this hole time I thought that was just a butthole jokeā¦.
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
I finally got the anti-wrap fully installed with the evap system re-done to "move" the charcoal canister. I took the jeep for a test drive to discover it now has a cylinder 3 and 4 misfire. The misfire doesn't begin until the jeep runs at about 1500 rpm for a few minutes. The misfire will continue at idle. If I cut the jeep off and right back on the misfire is gone until it runs at 1500rpm again for few minutes. I've checked fuel pressure and injectors. I have the viper coil mod to replace the coil rail. When I unplug the spark plug wire it seems to have great spark. The spark plugs look fine. They aren't super clean and aren't fouled. My next step is to do a compression check once the gauge arrives.
Last year over the summer I chased a random misfire issue I had. After de-carboning the engine, new 4 hole injectors and viper coil the random misfire went away. If the compression check goes well I'm going to pick up a new coil and see if that solves the problem since 3 and 4 share a coil.
Here are pictures I took with my borescope of inside the 3rd cylinder. I don't know if the build up is alot or normal. One shows a valve open and the other shows that same valve close.
Last year over the summer I chased a random misfire issue I had. After de-carboning the engine, new 4 hole injectors and viper coil the random misfire went away. If the compression check goes well I'm going to pick up a new coil and see if that solves the problem since 3 and 4 share a coil.
Here are pictures I took with my borescope of inside the 3rd cylinder. I don't know if the build up is alot or normal. One shows a valve open and the other shows that same valve close.
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
I finally got the misfire issue fixed. After checking everything that could be a cause I determined the ECU was falsely counting a misfire then intern cutting out cylinders 3 and 4. After I reconnected the battery after putting the new to me ECU in the jeep wouldn't start. Durring testing everything my starter had acted up a few times. So I checked everything and the starter finally gave up. After replacing the starter the jeep started up great and is running great.
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
Kinda forgot to update this thread in awhile. Not much has been done improvement wise to the jeep just a bunch of fixing of things. I did install a set of flow daddy headers along with a new muffler. Had to create an extended wrench to be able to reach the center bottom bolt. The old muffler had seen some better days.
Right before the snow storms I decided to take advantage of the high idle feature that is pre-programed into the factory jeep cherokee computer. I wired a relay to my auxbeam switch pannel that will ground pin number A12 when energized. Its nice to use after winching to help the battery recharge or to keep the ac going strong when stopped on the trail lol.
Right before the snow storms I decided to take advantage of the high idle feature that is pre-programed into the factory jeep cherokee computer. I wired a relay to my auxbeam switch pannel that will ground pin number A12 when energized. Its nice to use after winching to help the battery recharge or to keep the ac going strong when stopped on the trail lol.
Keith1138
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2015
- Location
- Harrisburg NC
After spending a week at Windrock my jeep was due for some love. The most important thing was fixing my psc ram mount. My tierod had rotated back and the ram was pushing against my diff cover. Something had to go so my ram mount decided to rip at a bend in the mount. Easy fix I welded it back together with another gusset. During checking the front end after rotating the tierod back i discover the jam nuts on my track bar had came loose and it had rotated as well. Which explained why I had a slight drive shaft to down pipe clearance issue at full stuff.
Next on the list was fixing the factory heater core hoses that decided to leak on start up till they warmed up. I decided to give one of those heater hose valves a try.
Another item on the list was to figure out why my brake pedal would loose pressure when I would be spinning tires. With no loss of fluid or visual leaks. I pulled the master cylinder off of the booster to verify the back wasnt leaking. At windrock I did check to make sure all my lines were tight and didnt pull air. So i decided to bleed the brakes. The front passenger side caliper had a little air it appeared. Hopefully that was issue.
The last three items on the list are to do the iron rock air bumps in the front because at windrock I ended up jb welding my hockey pucks together since I had broke the bolt again. The last item is to get a new front diff cover. On trail 15 I some how unscrewed the drain plug on the bottom of the cover. Luckily I noticed it with in 20 feet. We weren't able to find the plug so we threaded the fill plug in the drain hole. Yes the thread some how were good. Then dumped a quart of fluid in it and shoved a stick in the fill hole.
The last item is to fix the driver door hinge bushings. Lots of projects offer a great kit. Lifting the door to close it has gotten old quick.
Next on the list was fixing the factory heater core hoses that decided to leak on start up till they warmed up. I decided to give one of those heater hose valves a try.
Another item on the list was to figure out why my brake pedal would loose pressure when I would be spinning tires. With no loss of fluid or visual leaks. I pulled the master cylinder off of the booster to verify the back wasnt leaking. At windrock I did check to make sure all my lines were tight and didnt pull air. So i decided to bleed the brakes. The front passenger side caliper had a little air it appeared. Hopefully that was issue.
The last three items on the list are to do the iron rock air bumps in the front because at windrock I ended up jb welding my hockey pucks together since I had broke the bolt again. The last item is to get a new front diff cover. On trail 15 I some how unscrewed the drain plug on the bottom of the cover. Luckily I noticed it with in 20 feet. We weren't able to find the plug so we threaded the fill plug in the drain hole. Yes the thread some how were good. Then dumped a quart of fluid in it and shoved a stick in the fill hole.
The last item is to fix the driver door hinge bushings. Lots of projects offer a great kit. Lifting the door to close it has gotten old quick.