My first engine “build”

Thank you sir! Makes sense why I didn’t have a gasket in my kit.

I also, any idea what this pink with black wire and single post connector might go to? I can’t find it on any wiring diagram and I guess I missed it when unplugging things. Comes out of the firewall harness.
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3 steps forward one step back… hopefully just one step.

Almost done with the wiring, assuming I got it correct. Grill and Radiator back in. Need a lower rad hose and why the hell are the trans cooling connections on the radiator 3/8 and the transmission hard lines are 5/16? WTF!

Need to finish up routing the heater hoses and order and install an electric cooling fan and shroud and I’m basically at the point to fill fluids and turn the key to find out what all I screwed up.

The one step back is I’ve been chasing a trans fluid lead, actually two. Getting the pan to seal up has proven to be a PITA. I’m about to order a new pan. The second leak I think is from the rear main seal on the output of the trans. Gonna have to pull the tcase and tail housing and see what’s going on. Fluid is coming out a weep hole on the bottom of the tail housing.

I’m hoping I’m not going to have to pull the transmission. 😬

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Pulled the tcase and transmission tail housing. It didn’t seem that the seal in the tail housing that seals over the tcase input shaft was even touching the input shaft. Couldn’t feel it engaging and it didn’t seem to clean the input shaft when you installed and removed the tail housing.

Couldn’t find solid information online about the seal so I Took the tcase and tail housing up to a transmission shop.

Side bar; I noticed a nice Grand National in the lot and noticed from across the lot that it wasn’t an 8.5 or 10” rear end underneath it. It looked like a D44 from 40’ away.

I asked the guy that was helping me (the owner of the shop) and it was his car. I mentioned the rear axle didn’t seem to be stock and asked if it was an 44, and he perked up then corrected me that it was a D60. He was happy to help me out at that point. 😁 gotta love gearheadz!

Anyway, he got me sorted with a seal. back at the house I pulled the old seal dropped the new one in and you can feel a positive engagement as it seats over the input shaft.

Oddly, for ahits and giggles, I stuck the old seal on the input shaft and it fit properly as well. But you certainly couldn’t feel it engaging and it didn’t wipe the shaft clean when it was installed. Unfortunately, it’s all recessed and you can see it when installing the tail housing.

Sooooooo, not sure WTF is up. It sure acts like fluid is getting around the seal. Guess I’ll just pay close attention to the reassembly and install.
 
I’m about fed up with trying to find the right trans cooling line fitting for the radiator. Part of the problem is probably because I don’t know exactly the name of what to search when looking for the radiator cooling line fitting.

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It’s a two piece with a single flare on the tube to create a compression fit like a brake line.

To be honest, I’m not sure if it’s M16x1.5 or 5/8x11 it’s damn close for both.

But I can’t find anything local and online is proving a challenge as well.

So any help on what exactly I have and what it’s called to narrow the search would be helpful. Closest thing I’ve found to reduce down to 5/16 is on Amazon but it’s one piece of that makes a difference. Not sure if the flare is the same.

 
Shreddinlettuce said:
Why not just run an external cooler, the ambient air should be cooler than the coolant in the radiator
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I don’t see the sense in buying an external cooler just because I can’t find a fitting the right size in an effort to avoid a reducer and 2 more hose clamps. I’ll go with the reducer on each line if needed. They’re already in my amazon cart.

I just like fewer connections if possible. It’s cleaner.
 
For about $40 you get better cooling simpler routing and both the trans and engine run cooler

From google ai

External transmission coolers are generally more effective at dissipating heat than internal coolers found in radiators, especially in high-performance or heavy-duty applications. However, for most standard vehicles, the internal cooler is usually sufficient to maintain optimal transmission fluid temperatures.
 
Shreddinlettuce said:
For about $40 you get better cooling simpler routing and both the trans and engine run cooler

From google ai

External transmission coolers are generally more effective at dissipating heat than internal coolers found in radiators, especially in high-performance or heavy-duty applications. However, for most standard vehicles, the internal cooler is usually sufficient to maintain optimal transmission fluid temperatures.
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Look everyone, he said high performance when talking about an ‘87 YJ. 😂😂😂

Good point though. Being considered.
 
Shreddinlettuce said:
Off-road slow driving tends to heat soak things acne can be worse on cooling than short full power bursts like racing where theres a ton of airflow
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Oh, I know. The closest I’ll get to that is sitting in Orlando Traffic. There’s nothing worth wheeling around here. This is to run to the beach or around town.

That said, I found a decent external cooler with 5/16 inches in/out that would be super easy and cheap. 👍🏻
 
mbalbritton said:
I’m about fed up with trying to find the right trans cooling line fitting for the radiator. Part of the problem is probably because I don’t know exactly the name of what to search when looking for the radiator cooling line fitting.

View attachment 459769View attachment 459770
View attachment 459771View attachment 459772

It’s a two piece with a single flare on the tube to create a compression fit like a brake line.

To be honest, I’m not sure if it’s M16x1.5 or 5/8x11 it’s damn close for both.

But I can’t find anything local and online is proving a challenge as well.

So any help on what exactly I have and what it’s called to narrow the search would be helpful. Closest thing I’ve found to reduce down to 5/16 is on Amazon but it’s one piece of that makes a difference. Not sure if the flare is the same.

Click to expand...

An inverted flare fitting with a measured major thread diameter of approximately 0.617 inches corresponds to a 3/8-inch tube size utilizing a 5/8"-18 UNF thread specification (where the nominal 0.625" major diameter measures slightly under on physical parts due to manufacturing tolerances). This standard follows SAE J512 guidelines and is widely used in automotive hydraulic, brake, and fuel lines.

Fitting Identification Specs
    • Tube Outer Diameter (OD): 3/8 inch (0.375 in)
    • Thread Size Designation: 5/8"-18 (-06 size)
    • Thread Pitch: 18 threads per inch (TPI)
    • Flare Angle: 45-degree inverted cone seat
    • Common Applications: Automotive braking systems, power steering, and transmission cooler lines.
 
mbalbritton said:
I don’t see the sense in buying an external cooler blah blah blah
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Besides the circuit in the radiator being more for WARMING the fluid in extreme cold, than "cooling" it down in extreme heat... even accounting for fluid<>fluid heat transfer supremacy, 190* coolant is keeping your tranny there as well 😉
Shreddinlettuce said:
External transmission coolers are generally more effective at dissipating heat than internal coolers found in radiators
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PLUS, with an external and you bypass the rad entirely, 100% remove all potential for that crusty rad tube to force coolant (@ 10+psi) into your tranny return (0psi) causing a total shitwreck
 
Cooling fan, trans cooler and heater hoses routed.

I have almost everything wired up except the switched power on the alternator (still need the wire), and the switched power for the cooling fan. And I think I’m correct in saying that I have something in the system wrong.

Out of curiosity, I connected the positive battery cable to the battery and jumped a multi-meter between the negative cable and the negative post with the key off hoping to find a big ole fat zero… I got 12v…

Assuming I’m correct and not overlooking or misunderstanding how it works…am I correct in my understanding that I shouldn’t have 12v until I turn the key?
 
mbalbritton said:
Cooling fan, trans cooler and heater hoses routed.

I have almost everything wired up except the switched power on the alternator (still need the wire), and the switched power for the cooling fan. And I think I’m correct in saying that I have something in the system wrong.

Out of curiosity, I connected the positive battery cable to the battery and jumped a multi-meter between the negative cable and the negative post with the key off hoping to find a big ole fat zero… I got 12v…

Assuming I’m correct and not overlooking or misunderstanding how it works…am I correct in my understanding that I shouldn’t have 12v until I turn the key?
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The starter should be direct to battery, but switched off whenever the solenoid is not activated. You have something not on the key circuit that is direct to battery.

I always disconnect the negative battery cable when I park mine just in case
 
Shreddinlettuce said:
The starter should be direct to battery, but switched off whenever the solenoid is not activated. You have something not on the key circuit that is direct to battery.

I always disconnect the negative battery cable when I park mine just in case
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What I’ve got is battery + to Starter Solenoid. Opposite side Starter Solenoid to Starter.

Battery Neg. To frame and same spot frame to block.

Cooling fan through relay through 30A to battery +. Then switched power headed over to fuse panel but not wired yet.

Fog lights from fuse panel through fuse to battery positive post. Same for fuel pump.

Alternator currently only wired to external regulator and a ground from alt to ground.
Need to install positive to Battery.

HEI dizzy wired to switched positive and to solenoid.

Transmission whatever it’s called wire going to third post on bottom side of solenoid.

I’m questioning my solenoid connections…
 
Cooling fan through relay through 30A to battery +. Then switched power headed over to fuse panel but not wired yet.

Fog lights from fuse panel through fuse to battery positive post. Same for fuel pump.

Are you sure these fuses are to switched power
 
Shreddinlettuce said:
Cooling fan through relay through 30A to battery +. Then switched power headed over to fuse panel but not wired yet.

Fog lights from fuse panel through fuse to battery positive post. Same for fuel pump.

Are you sure these fuses are to switched power
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fog lights are going through fuse panel, fan will when you actually finish wiring it. Right now it’s just unterminated.
 
Getting dangerously close to a point of finding out what I messed up or got wrong in this whole build.

Did the CAD delete on the front axle this morning and some wiring. Assuming my wiring is correct, engine bay wiring is 99.9% done. I find it fun to do, I just wish I understood it better. I think I have three wires left to finish. 12v switched wire from cooling fan, and 12v switched from alternator and waiting on my Alternator to Battery wire.

Haven’t looked at my fuse panel yet to see what spots are open, but if these two 12v switched wires have inline fuses can they be spliced into the same fuse panel connection?

What’s left after wiring?
- Swap some heater hose clamps
- Install lower rad hose
- Top off all fluids
- Pick up a 4.5” bolt for the alternator bracket
- exhuast down pipe

Then with a whole lot of luck it’s just tuning and adjusting of carb, timing, shift linkage… etc.
 
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