‘11 Ram 3500 control arms.

skyhighZJ

skyhighZJ

Thanks for your taxes
Joined
May 31, 2012
Location
Aberdeen, NC.
I have the death wobble in my dually. Let me tell you it’s way more scary than any jeep I have ever been in or owned.
Question, I have put the pry bar EVERYWHERE and the only play I’m getting is in the UCA/LCA laterally. 20k miles ago I replaced BJ, wheel bearings, and ALL steering with Moog/ Timken parts and they seem fine. Will the UCA/LCA cause this and if so at what level of “play” is it too much? I understand they are rubber bushings and inherently have flex but this seems to be too much. If I can text short videos to someone I’d greatly appreciate it.
Also the TB was replaced with an adjustable unit from Pure Performance. I cannot see that it has any play except a little bushing motion at the frame end but it does not move side to side.
 
I agree, DW in an 8000 lb dually is life changing. Only had it happen in mine once from basically jumping some railroad tracks. Honestly surprised I didn't have it more as I've worn out 3 track bars and rode some worn out ass steering and ball joints for a long time.

Assuming the normal shake test with the tires off the ground doesn't show anything? No visible play with the steering being cycled?
 
skyhighZJ said:
If a guy were to Dm you Cell# would you accept a video of LCA/UCA/TB movement and give a “that’s bad” judgement?
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Hopefully you don't have a commie phone, Apple sends videos to Androids in 1999 quality.
 
Well after the professional diag from both @Jody Treadway and @Chris_Keziah i have reached out to Pure Performance and will be getting a rebuild kit for the frame end of the TB. They are bound and determined there should be a bit of “cushion” I have been told otherwise and when told they would be given a shit review and I’d take my business elsewhere they conceded. Just not in the market to drop the Carli $$ for a new TB right now. Also ordered new UCA/LCA to comp for the 3” level kit I did cause I just don’t feel comfortable with the amount of play in the Factree booshings.
 
skyhighZJ said:
Well after the professional diag from both @Jody Treadway and @Chris_Keziah i have reached out to Pure Performance and will be getting a rebuild kit for the frame end of the TB. They are bound and determined there should be a bit of “cushion” I have been told otherwise and when told they would be given a shit review and I’d take my business elsewhere they conceded. Just not in the market to drop the Carli $$ for a new TB right now. Also ordered new UCA/LCA to comp for the 3” level kit I did cause I just don’t feel comfortable with the amount of play in the Factree booshings.
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I've never seen "cushion" and track bar work out very well. Hopefully that gets everything sorted.
 
Finally got a decent tech guy on the phone from Pure Performance yesterday afternoon. He saw the videos and said there is a rebuild kit in the mail no questions free of charge. Apparently they offer 2 types of bushing and he is sending both. This dude was helpful and courteous unlike the other experience I had. We shall see how it works out.
 
carli suspension should be able to fix that. They also make a sick full radius arm setup. ~$2,800.00 but... long travel ya know.
 
hammer11b said:
carli suspension should be able to fix that. They also make a sick full radius arm setup. ~$2,800.00 but... long travel ya know.
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Yeah that’s a hard no. Carli is just a bit to proud of their stuff for my paycheck. Either way, it’s fixed and no issues so far. New BJ, UCA/LCA, and rebuild bushing kit from the track bar company (pure performance).
 
Hard no? Too proud? Not trying to ruffle feathers, but am genuinely curious what you mean?
 
Jody Treadway said:
It's always the track bar.
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So truck has been fine running my normal routes around here. Yesterday I was headed home from picking up hay. 34’ stock trailer loaded out, 60mph, come around a bend in the road and there was a cut across the road like they had cut it to run utility or some damn thing. The asphalt had settled into the “cutout” area causing probably a 2” dip in the road surface. The truck shimmied like it want to go into a DW but didn’t go full potato. I’m really nervous about this cause I’m about to make a trip to NM at the end of the month and I’m not really wanting to have an issue in the middle of nowhere, on the weekend (when I’ll be traveling) and have it go full mashed with sour cream and bacon bits. I can’t get any movement anywhere in the BJ, wheel bearings, UCA/LCA, or the track bar at either end. Alignment was done last week after I did parts replacement. Only thing that hasn’t been replaced is the steering box. And I’m not really in the mood to deal with a parts house box so I’d probably buy a redhead but damn $$$ and lead tome isn’t convenient either....
 
skyhighZJ said:
So truck has been fine running my normal routes around here. Yesterday I was headed home from picking up hay. 34’ stock trailer loaded out, 60mph, come around a bend in the road and there was a cut across the road like they had cut it to run utility or some damn thing. The asphalt had settled into the “cutout” area causing probably a 2” dip in the road surface. The truck shimmied like it want to go into a DW but didn’t go full potato. I’m really nervous about this cause I’m about to make a trip to NM at the end of the month and I’m not really wanting to have an issue in the middle of nowhere, on the weekend (when I’ll be traveling) and have it go full mashed with sour cream and bacon bits. I can’t get any movement anywhere in the BJ, wheel bearings, UCA/LCA, or the track bar at either end. Alignment was done last week after I did parts replacement. Only thing that hasn’t been replaced is the steering box. And I’m not really in the mood to deal with a parts house box so I’d probably buy a redhead but damn $$$ and lead tome isn’t convenient either....
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Could it be a bad alignment. After all my new front end parts I had my alignment done by a different shop than previously did it, and it is not as stable as it was with the previous alignment. Not sure about the 4th gens but I think its Thurens website that has the specs to tell the shop to set it to. The guy who did mine didn't like those specs and promised I would be happier with his setup.:rolleyes:
 
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