03 Ranger D60 swap w/ sliders

Had a great time at the Flats this past weekend. Tweaked the caliper bracket or something and made the brakes drag on the way home. It ran hot, melted the hub seal, and almost caused a grease fire on the brakes. It was smoking like hell.

So I had to put the new tire up there while I had the old one off to fix it. Big thanks to Rides for the new tires.

ai57.photobucket.com_albums_g218_seed60_IMAG0793_zpse4a29dc5.jpg
ai57.photobucket.com_albums_g218_seed60_IMAG0791_zpsbb115bc6.jpg
 
New brakes, seals, and paint.

ai57.photobucket.com_albums_g218_seed60_20140524_143117_zpsizsa32ey.jpg

Rims showed up too. The backspacing almost looks stupid in the rear. But I think I'll need it to clear the front tires.

ai57.photobucket.com_albums_g218_seed60_20140604_181907_zpsv9koaykd.jpg
ai57.photobucket.com_albums_g218_seed60_20140604_181928_zpscfph6ugl.jpg
 
Looking good. What size rims are those. Are they 16.5's? For some reason they look like they don't have the inner bead retention lip. If so, are you planning on running beadlocks?
 
Grape Ape said:
Looking good. What size rims are those. Are they 16.5's? For some reason they look like they don't have the inner bead retention lip. If so, are you planning on running beadlocks?
Click to expand...

They are 16.5s and don't plan on using beadlocks. I wasn't aware anything like that was needed with 16.5s. But looking at their site the diagram does show a bead bump that is not there on my rim. Got me curious.

Tires are 12.5" wide and these rims are 8.25" wide.

awww.mrt_wheels.com_baseimages_WHEEL_20FORM_20PIX.jpg
 
Yes, those are basically required when running less than normal tire pressures, which you will for off-roading. Without those, the back of the bead will slip off of the rim and cause a blow-out. You may want to make sure the company sent you the correct rims. Most 16.5" rims are designed this way, and not until 18" and bigger rims became an industry standard, guys had to run 16's or pay out the butt for bigger rim sizes or weld-on beadlocks.

You will NOT be happy with these if you plan on doing any off-roading. It will only take one time of having to try to remount the tire on your rim, at night, in the middle of the woods, to know you made a bad choice. Hope this helps.

Dean
 
For what it's worth, I've never seen a 16.5 with a safety retainer in the rim. They're just like a 22.5 truck rim. It wasn't just the set of rims you bought.


The 12 bolt beadlocks look good! I'd hate to have to mount/dismount them very often though!
 
One of my favorite builds back in business? :bounce:
 
Pressure washed seats and el cheapo covers. This makes me happy. I've been riding around forever with just one seat, no floor, and SC mud funk.


20161221_131957_zpstbqah4ef.jpg


20161229_152017_zpsklxul1lt.jpg


This thing fought me the whole way. Everything was so seized up. No more mud. Hoping to make the Flats to try out the new locker.

20161229_151930_zpsyqztd7ts.jpg
 
Last edited:
Finally got this thing back on the road. There was a mix up with the gears. I was told it had 5.38's when it actually had 5.13's. So those had to be redone. Chase hooked it up. I can tell a big difference between the 5.13's and new 5.38's.

Still needs the brakes bled a little more and the rear brakes seem to be too tight, dragging like I'm on the brakes the whole time. New calipers and pads. So I don't know what's going on with that. Maybe master cylinder and push rod problems?

But it's awesome not being welded anymore. The first tight turn into the gas station put a smile on my face and I just kept saying to myself this is so nice.

20170131_154704_zpsaoy660ak.jpg
 
Last edited:
seed60 said:
Finally got this thing back on the road. There was a mix up with the gears. I was told it had 5.38's when it actually had 5.13's. So those had to be redone. Chase hooked it up. I can tell a big difference between the 5.13's and new 5.38's.

Still needs the brakes bled a little more and the rear brakes seem to be too tight, dragging like I'm on the brakes the whole time. New calipers and pads. So I don't know what's going on with that. Maybe master cylinder and push rod problems?

But it's awesome not being welded anymore. The first tight turn into the gas station put a smile on my face and I just kept saying to myself this is so nice.

20170131_154704_zpsaoy660ak.jpg
Click to expand...
If the master was for drum rear, make sure there is no residual valve left in the master/system.

Could also be too long of a pushrod.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
If the master was for drum rear, make sure there is no residual valve left in the master/system.

Could also be too long of a pushrod.
Click to expand...

IMAG0518.jpg

Thanks for the advice. The master is for a drum rear F350. As best I can remember the larger, darker fitting coming off the master was straight through and didn't have the guts like a residual valve.

I've been doing some research about how much to shave of the pushrod. To the best of my recollection it was all the way in when I installed the new master.
 
Back
Top