1.6 swap engine won't run

Ricky B

Ricky B

Wiiide Open
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
LKN - Tha Dirty Mo (Mooresville, NC)
Just finished swappin a 1.6 into my buddies sammi cause he blew his old motor but wecan't get it to run, he just posted over on the zuwharrie board but i figured i'd copy it over here in case any of you guys have any ideas.

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We just finished swappin in an 89 1.6 8v into my 87 Sami. We kept the 1.3 carb/intake. We used a holley low pressure electric fuel pump (1.5-4.0 psi).

For some reason the motor will not run. It will turn over, the starter is good, the timing is all lined up, we have all new plugs, rotor, cap and wires.

We've tested and got good spark. The compression was tested before I picked it up and it was good. We have fuel getting into the engine, the choke is working correctly and I know i have good gas.

We have also tried to start it with starting fluid with the fuel pump turned off( i wired a switch on fuel pump) and it still will not start.

We've done everything we can think, does anybody have any suggestions? Also if anybody is close to NC state and wants to swing by to take a look that would be awesome.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Thanks
 
Timed ? The timing belt is on straight ?
and is the distributor/gear on in the right spot ? Did you install the dist 180 out ?
Got the wires all on right ?

Check that your on the compression stroke (stick finger in the hole) pull dist. cap make sure it pointing to #1 spot..

Possibly it jumped the timing belt...
 
Timed ? The timing belt is on straight ?
and is the distributor/gear on in the right spot ? Did you install the dist 180 out ?
Got the wires all on right ?

Check that your on the compression stroke (stick finger in the hole) pull dist. cap make sure it pointing to #1 spot..

Possibly it jumped the timing belt...
 
You said the timing is all lined up? Are you sure? You could be 180 degrees off and it will not start... but everything would appear to be lined up. Remove #1 spark plug and turn the engine until you feel compresion on your finger... when you do... turn to Top Dead center... You can use the timing mark at this point. Now.. Remove your Dist cap... is the rotor pointing at plug wire for #1 Cyl?? Is your firing order correct?
Click to expand...

We did this exact method, 4 times, and we even tried to turn it to 180 degree's oposite and it just made it alot worse. Also did the same method above except on the number 4 cylinder as recomended by someone on this board and it was all lined up.

Firing order is correct according to the haynes manual - 1,3,4,2

when trying to crank it basically pops out exhaust and sometimes will pop at the carb but not half as much as at the exhaust. Only had it actually back fire once.


mean I've got it timed just how the book and several other people have explained and we've tried moving the dizzy back and forth, one way makes it pop outta the exhaust alot and the other way makes it pop outta the carb bad.
 
Sounds to me like the cam timing is off, not the ignition timing. Maybe one tooth or so.
 
I mean both pulleys are at top dead center . . . and yea there def not the 180 degree's off cause we set it that way on purpose to make sure and it started blowing ouyt the carb instead of the exhaust, so then we new we had it right the first time.

Think my plan is gonna be to check timing one more time then check compression then rebuild the carb.
 
when u time it is it with marks in the cam and engine or are you just lining it up some other way? i know its a kinda off/stupid question, i tried to help anthony already but i dont think it helped any
 
Yo,

WIRES ARE ON CAP IN REVERSE DIRECTION OF ROTOR MOVEMENT. CHECK TO SEE THAT 1342 TIMING FOLLOWS ROTOR MOVEMENT. EASY TO INSTALL THEM IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION. AXE ME HOW I KNOW...

-Was the 1.6 running before the swap?
-Did you monkey with the 1.6 during the swap?
-If cam is timed correctly, turning the engine in the direction of run, the #1 exhaust valve will be the first to open soon after TDC. So, pull plugs and make sure #1 is at the top. Rotate motor, likely clockwise, and soon after TDC the #1 exhause valve starts opening. If not, cam is out of time.
-Ignition timing, similar drill. With #1 at TDC and ready to fire, rotor points to #1 wire. If not, distributor out of time. You can pick any terminal and call it #1. Then, in the same direction as rotor button rotates, add the other 3 wires. This will fix any cam or distributor timing problems.
:beer:
 
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