1 ton axle swapped....now some questions

Jack3d_up

Jack3d_up

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 6, 2013
Location
Gastonia
hey guy! Just got my 91 yj back from the fab shop and I have a couple questions regarding driveshafts and u joints. I had the shop put 1995 f350 axles under the front and a GM dana 60 in the rear. Now my question is, my front driveshaft is my stock one from my amc231 transfercase. I am getting binding along with clearance issues with my skid plate. What can I do to get more droop to the driveshaft? I know that I can swap an xj driveshaft but unsure what year and do I need the yoke too?

Now my rear driveshaft was made and it is a CV driveshaft but looks like the knuckle in between the ujoints is to thick and only allows 4 inches of droop before it binds up. Is there any options I can go about before I dump more money into this build?
 
In my experience, a non-cv shaft will give more droop than a CV will so it may be a matter of finding the right yoke. Could possibly even switch to a conversion joint at the 231 as it may give more clearance too.
But really your best option is going to be swapping to another transfer case. Dana 300 would work.
 
XJsavage said:
In my experience, a non-cv shaft will give more droop than a CV will so it may be a matter of finding the right yoke. Could possibly even switch to a conversion joint at the 231 as it may give more clearance too.
But really your best option is going to be swapping to another transfer case. Dana 300 would work.
Click to expand...

Dont think a d300 will give him more ujoint travel.

You can grind the yokes to give you a few more inches of travel. Otherwise, you will need to goto a high angle joint/shaft, lower the tcase, take out some lift, or stretch the wb.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Dont think a d300 will give him more ujoint travel.

You can grind the yokes to give you a few more inches of travel. Otherwise, you will need to goto a high angle joint/shaft, lower the tcase, take out some lift, or stretch the wb.
Click to expand...
Ah yeah, I speed read and thought he was needing more in the back, in which that case a 300 being shorter would use a longer driveshaft with less angles.
 
A d300 would help as it could be clocked up flat without affecting the oil flow through the pump in the 231.

Clocking it upward would allow more clearance between driveshaft and skid plate, but make the angle much worse.

One important thing is to make sure your pinion angles are correct for the driveshaft types.

If a conventional single u joint driveshaft, then yokes at either end need to be parallel. In the front it is optimal to have the pinion 2 degrees upward from parallel, so that the angles are parallel when torque is applied and the pinion rotates down.

Opposite is true in the back, pinion needs to be 2 degrees down from parallel so that it is bind free when under torque.

If using a double cardan, a double ujoint driveshaft, the pinion must be pointed directly at the tcase flange. This should put the misalignment on the lower ujoint to zero allowing the double cardan to negate the angle difference.

If all of this is setup correctly, and the front drive shaft is still hitting skid or binding it's time for either high clearance high angle custom stuff or time to clearance the skid plate.
 
Could always take a bunch of lift out of it.
 
I am surprised that the "fab shop" you took it to could not help you with the rest of it. Seems like putting the axles under the Jeep was the easy part.
 
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