1 ton K5 - now with even more mischief and bad decisions

[paradisePWoffrd]

Arent their bolt in engine mounts for the LS in a k5? Seems like getting the engine in place should be fairly straight forward?

 

[Mojones915]

Arent their bolt in engine mounts for the LS in a k5? Seems like getting the engine in place should be fairly straight forward?

There are quite a few out there. Most of them use the factory style isolator and I am changing to poly mounts though. And for the cost of some of the kits for what you get I just didn't see the benefit (at least at the moment). The LS swap bracket from Ruffstuff with all the hardware is $80, the lowest price bolt in kit I have found (with decent reviews) is the DIY4X one at $205. This is still up for debate though and I might end up just going that route depending on how smooth everything else goes.

 

[NCJeeplover]

I really like the ORD engine mounts with the new cross member. Cleans things up and makes alot of room up front. Not exactly cheap, but you definitely get your monies worth. If your keeping your current transmission they put the engine where the stock one is so no need to redo drivelines too.

Combination Kit of Competition Style Motor Mounts for 73-87 GM with Big Block High Clearance Engine Crossmember

Combination Kit of Competition Style Motor Mounts for 73-87 GM with Big Block High Clearance Engine Crossmember Big Block, 6.2L Diesel and Gen III/IV GM V8 Applications Stiffens the frame, increased crossover/high steer clearance, eliminates weak factory crossmember. Includes competition style...

www.offroaddesign.com

LS Adapter Plates - Engine - Engine & Transmission

www.offroaddesign.com

 

[Mojones915]

I really like the ORD engine mounts with the new cross member. Cleans things up and makes alot of room up front. Not exactly cheap, but you definitely get your monies worth. If your keeping your current transmission they put the engine where the stock one is so no need to redo drivelines too.

Combination Kit of Competition Style Motor Mounts for 73-87 GM with Big Block High Clearance Engine Crossmember

Combination Kit of Competition Style Motor Mounts for 73-87 GM with Big Block High Clearance Engine Crossmember Big Block, 6.2L Diesel and Gen III/IV GM V8 Applications Stiffens the frame, increased crossover/high steer clearance, eliminates weak factory crossmember. Includes competition style...

www.offroaddesign.com

LS Adapter Plates - Engine - Engine & Transmission

www.offroaddesign.com

I already have the ORD crossmember sitting in the shop ready to go. Their mounts just seemed so much more expensive (and even complicated) than they other stuff out there since they adapt to factory style mounts. That's why I was looking at the DIY4X kit since it is specifically for poly mounts and an ls in a squarebody. The more I think through it this is probably the route I will go. A Saturday spent fabbing my own engine brackets is probably worth the $200 I am going to spend. Shop time is a higher premium than parts cost these days.

I don't plan (or want) to change the engine location. With the slight wheelbase stretch, tons , hopefully increase in flex, and the trans and doubler I will need new crossmember/ mounting for it and driveshafts regardless.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

I’ve got the DIY4X LS mounts (use a spring bushing) in mine. It kept the bell housing in the same spot. Made everything stupid easy.

 

[Ron]

what about the dirty dingo ones?

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

what about the dirty dingo ones?

I think they use factory bushings? Pretty sure the ones I saw did. He's wanting to go poly.

 

[Mojones915]

Parts are on the way! Pulled the trigger on the parts list below a few days ago, most of what is needed to complete the LS swap is now inbound. Still working out what to do with the fuel cell/tank.

I am taking the Friday of KOH off to stream the race and try and knock out as much as possible with @Falko coming over to help out. Hate I am missing out on a trip to the desert to cheer on @BRUISER and @REDLYNER, but hopeful for some good progress on the K5.

Parts on the way
-DIY4X poly ls mounts - DIY 4x :: Engine :: LS Engine adapter with Engine Mount
-TCI flexplate - Flexplate LS1 Engine to 4L80E Converter/Transmission Wide Pattern SFI Approved
-TCI Torque converter - Maximizer Street Performance Torque Converter 65-91 GM TH400, 425, 375 w/ Wide-Bolt Pattern
-Reverse pattern manual valve body - GM TH400 Full Manual Reverse Shift Pattern Valve Body With Engine Braking
-Holley Terminator X system and the small pro dash

And since threads are useless without pictures, here is the shop prepped for work and streaming next week

 

[Mojones915]

Another weekend of some decent progress. @Falko (thanks again for the help) came over Friday and Saturday. Between watching Hammers and drinking more than a few beverages we were able to get the front degree shims installed and square up the leaf spring hangers (the FUSH kit from ORD requires spacers I had previously installed incorrectly), finish drilling holes and mounting the rear shackle hangers, and pull the 5.3 from the yukon and get it loaded on the trailer.

 

[Mojones915]

Update without pics, but still progress -

Decided to take a small project detour. Engine swap is coming together slower than I wanted. Still waiting on stuff from TCI and they won't give me date. Will still need to get the trans re-built to get the valve body and a new output shaft put in it as well.

With warmer weather coming and really wanting to drive this thin again I decided to get it back on the road and take my time on the engine swap (probably in the fall). Have a new gas tank and sending unit coming this week. Will be grabbing SYE and maybe a clocking (I swear that it hangs lower than the 14b diff). Hoping to have this thing fired up in the next 2 weeks and going down the road within a month.

New to-do list (in no order):
- Install new gas tank and re-plumb to the filter (probably should replace that too while I am there)
- Battery mount (inner fenders are out and probably staying that way)
- Mount shocks
- Set rear pinion angle and weld on the perches
- SYE on the 241 (and maybe clocking ring)
- Rear bumper build
- Make new brake lines
- Measure and order driveshafts
- Everything else I am forgetting.....

 

[Mojones915]

Spent most of Saturday out in the shop and knocked out the rear bumper. Still need to figure out where to mount the license plate and make a filler panel for the top center section. Going to make a bolt in brace from the frame to the sides as well.

 

[Mojones915]

More progress lately. All new fuel tank, pump and sending unit are in. New filter and lines that far up as well.

Cleaned up the 241 and got the SYE kit form JB Conversions and clocking ring from ORD on as well.

 

[Mojones915]

Overdue for an update on this again.

Been slowly knocking out all the little stuff as I can. Checked that all the linkage still works and threw the stock front driveshaft in the check for clearance. I can almost get my finger between it and the collector at ride height so I have a set of center dump block huggers on the way to address that. Need to get some material to make a new crossmember/ skid mount. If I use 1.5in material I will just need a small 1in bump under the t-case front output so fairly flat belly without any need to chop up the floor. Exhaust doesn't look like it will be too complicated either.

The to do list keeps getting smaller but more pain-in-the-assy. It's much easier to stand in the shop with a beer in hand and look at it than actually working on it.

Still need to finish up and bleed the brakes, order new driveshafts and mount shocks. Still haven't found a great way to get it flexed all the way out, anyone near Walkertown have a forklift or tractor/ loader they can bring buy for an afternoon?

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Those outputs fit an NP205 yoke if you shorten it up some and get the correct seal. I'm running a 1410 rear on the one in my 99 Silverado so my whole shaft is 1410 joints.

 

[SHINTON]

Will be fun to see this one come alive again! I am actually just down the road a bit, Kvegas address but I can see Walkertown from my front yard, I am near Old Valley School Rd / Old Hollow Rd! Also a K5 guy, mine is a Red 88 with tube doors and soft top on the rear.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

What length rear shaft do you need? I’m running an ebay special $180 1350 CV style one, it’s originally an f250 front driveshaft. 36-41” long. Depending on the slip yoke you use you can make it longer.

 

[Mojones915]

What length rear shaft do you need? I’m running an ebay special $180 1350 CV style one, it’s originally an f250 front driveshaft. 36-41” long. Depending on the slip yoke you use you can make it longer.

It measured out to be 37 inches, currently has a 1310 CV yoke on the tcase that came with it from JB Conversions. Not sure how changing to a flange would impact that measurement. I am honestly more worried about travel. I'm currently pulling just over 14 inches of vertical travel and haven't even maxed it out. Will definitely need to be bumped and strapped based on either u joint angles or what shocks I can package under there. If I can use a stock unit that would be nice though.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

It measured out to be 37 inches, currently has a 1310 CV yoke on the tcase that came with it from JB Conversions. Not sure how changing to a flange would impact that measurement. I am honestly more worried about travel. I'm currently pulling just over 14 inches of vertical travel and haven't even maxed it out. Will definitely need to be bumped and strapped based on either u joint angles or what shocks I can package under there. If I can use a stock unit that would be nice though.

Oh crap disregard my PM that was for the front shaft. For the rear you need to measure the yoke OD of the seal surface and see if it matches a 205 seal ID. I know the 241 has a 32 spline output.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Here’s what I found JB Conversions, Inc.

 

[Mojones915]

Here’s what I found JB Conversions, Inc.

Thanks. Gonna have to crawl under there and see what I can figure out.

 

[Mojones915]

Time to revive this thread. Finally got the K5 back on the road this week.

Not much for pictures along the way but I got tired of it sitting in the same spot and decided to just get it going again. I ended up pulling the clocking ring off and throwing the old exhaust back on it to get it on the road. I had Olivers in Winston build me a new rear DS, put in a new Optima red top, checked all the fluids, bled the brakes and went for a drive.

I quickly realized that the leafs alone were not going to cut it and out of round 37s on home re-centered H1s were going to need a steering stabilizer. Front shocks and some parts from Barnes helped an enormous amount and I have been driving it to work all week.

So far only issues are a small leak in a rusted brake line (I will replacing that this weekend) and the rear end is super soft so getting those shocks mounted are next.

On to the pictures!

 

[kymudhunter]

Im only here for pictures, and read some of the posts from the OP... but missed why you spent moeny on a 241, when you had a 203/205 doubler already there....

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Likely just to get it back on the road because he hasn't done the engine swap yet and that was probably the stock transfer case.

 

[Mojones915]

Im only here for pictures, and read some of the posts from the OP... but missed why you spent moeny on a 241, when you had a 203/205 doubler already there....

Slight change in plans honestly. Since I picked up the Ultra4 car (Lets Go Racing! Daily Driver/ Ultra4 TJ) I decided to get the blazer back to driving status and just enjoy it. Already sold the doubler as well to help out in funding racecar upgrades.

 

[kymudhunter]

10-4 thanks for filling me in.