1 Ton solution to tow/wheel rig?

SHINTON

SHINTON

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Location
Triad area of NC
As many of you know I cannot seem to keep a rig for long and my Land Cruiser was bought thinking it would tow my camper and be able to do some wheeling as well.

Wheeling worked out great, LOVE the F&R locking diffs, crawled the big ledge before Kodak area last fall (with rocker dmg/no slider at the time)

Towing, not as well as I hoped. The I-6, has lots of low RPM torque, but really won't "hold" 60-65 on the hwy towing 6k behind it. (I might could really force it to drop to 2nd to hold but then lots of rpms for really long periods of time does nothing good for the engine I am sure)

So moving on to the next solution / hoping we will get a few folks that might have some thoughts on this. I know there is not really a perfect solution, so something will be comprimised.


My budget will prob be in the $6-7k range but willing to spend LESS and then get a bed toy if that ends up being the best option. (Atv / side by side atv)

I really don't want "any" lift... if I need more tire/clearance it will either be a short body lift OR clearance out fenders. With that said, am hoping to run at least 33s (285/75/16s is what I have now) Mostly just for clearance of axles over the rocks.

The reason for no suspension lifts, you just compromised the geometry of what took Chevy/Ford/Dodge years to engineer and I want it to be very safe for towing!! (Body lift is not really desireable either but MIGHT do an inch)

All this leads me to a couple groups:

SUVs like Jeep Grand Cherokee, Dodge Durango, K5 Blazer, Tahoe, or even 1/2 ton pickups.

They all have various compromises, IFS, weaker axles, not REALLY built for towing, etc.

3/4 Tons are decent mid-way, but honestly cannot think of many reasons to not just get a 1 ton instead?

So here is what I am thinking, 1 ton pickups. Extended cab, Reg cab (crew, getting kinda long but maybe?)

Chevy: 1977-87 K30 or CUCV... and prob the 400 or 454, 350s would prob need some engine work to really TOW? (6.2L, just never a fan...maybe someone convince me otherwise) Later Chevys I guess went to IFS?

Dodge: I know the Ram Trucks are not listed on the "desireable" D60 list on Pirate4x4. Don't know much about them...need input on them? Cummins STRONG... and I MUST go with AUTO, gas is fine too by me.


Ford: In looking at the list, the Front D60 was built / used thru 1998 on SRW 4x4s! (My budget prob maxes out there anyway)

I see a few around on autotrader, decent prices, 460 gassers and some 7.3L... they look on paper like a really GOOD option? 1 ton drivetrain, will TOW the heck outta the camper and should hope up offroad?

[Do they use funky suspensions / TTB or anything weird, does it matter if I stay stock with beefy tires?)


So thanks in advance for your thoughts, this should lead to my next purchase! Anyone has one of these rigs, pics appreciated and TRADES are accepted :)

[Cruiser is 76" wide, I think these are mostly 77-78" so really not THAT different, body dmg is not a big issue for me, the wife, well, tis the reason I DO FIX it afterwards heh]
 
Ford prices arent that bad. The F-250 uses a Dana 50 TTB. its a dana 44 with 60 outers, sort of. The old style F350 has a real D60. I think the new body style F250-350 uses a solid D50, but i could be wrong.
 
If you want to haul and wheel, you might want to look at a 95-97 f350 with a 7.3psd.
No ttb to worry about, plenty of power to pull your 6K lbs.
 
and 33's should go on fine with no lift. with some creative fender trimming you can get 35's and still look good. with some not so creative trimming you can get 38s. lol.

Steve's got some pretty good advice. That body style comes in extended cab or 4 door versions for family hauling.

If you can find one, a Centurion Bronco would be bad ass.
 
This is mine long and heavy....get rid of backseat and have short bed if offroading
95 F350 beast
5 speed manual
7.3 turbo
D60 frt
205 tc
The 33in tires will fit perfect
Also you can get these trucks with a 460ci
 

Attachments

  • the beast 028.jpg
    the beast 028.jpg
    85.2 KB · Views: 455
Screw the budget and buy a new or used Power Wagon. Its set up for wheeling anf towing from the factory. buy a set of steel beadlocks and some 35" swampers for them. Change out to the bigger tires when you are doing more wheeling than towing.

<><Fish
 
FishHunt said:
Screw the budget and buy a new or used Power Wagon. Its set up for wheeling anf towing from the factory. buy a set of steel beadlocks and some 35" swampers for them. Change out to the bigger tires when you are doing more wheeling than towing.

<><Fish
Click to expand...

Just ask whitey, he isnt scared to wheel the trail whale!
 
I know the D50 is not so hot (basically a hybrid as mentioned above) and I think that is what is in the 3/4 tons, correct? So another reason to just skip to 1 ton!?

What is in the Dodge 2500 / 3500s in the 90s? I have seen some really good deals on 2500s but figure the axles are not "1 ton" quality?

I am assuming I will put in a Detroit locker in the rear or something like that, ARB is just too much $$$.

Another assumption is it would be ok to put in a front locker (again prob Detroit) since the hubs are manual and the tcase would be in 2wd on the hwy / thus not spinning the shaft/axle either?

Offroad, I know what to expect and the few snowy days per year, willing to put up with the "problems" of a front locked rig, done it before.

Tire size, sounds like I will want to be creative and get in the 35ish range. I drove the cruiser MAYBE 3000 or so miles in the last year so fuel costs are not an issue nor is tire wear.

I prob will go with a radial though (BFG M/T, load rating E) though the Swamper is a beautiful thing offroad. 2 sets of tires maybe the ticket too.
 
Dodge has limited gearing options, tone ring something or other in the rear. Front axle is a dana 60. nothing wrong with it for light wheeling and 33's. Its got a weird disconnect mechanism rather than manual or auto hubs for the front axle. again no big deal for light wheeling, a detroit may be out of the question for the front though. you may have to use ARB or Ox locker for that.

I prefer 98-2001 dodge extended cab because of the quad doors. 97 and down were like the fords, no access to the rear seats without sliding the driver/passenger seats forward.

absolutly loved my 2001 dodge quad cab. plenty of room in the rear seat. i rode in the back all the way from augusta georgia and didnt have a problem with it.

Dodge is coil spring front where ford is leaf.

Touch call, i like both trucks.
 
I'd buy the tow rig that you want and get a small beater trail rig.
 
So.... From Land Cruiser to 80s OBS Chevy...... ummmm.... yaaaaaah, No, I just don't see that happening.. The tow rig is only gonna be able to readily wheel URE and other easier locations, with out jeopardizing reliable tow rig functionality at which point an stock toy/jeep/ etc. could wheel that just as easily.

OR get your decent tow rig and pick up a smaller side by side that can fit in the truck bed.
 
The only real down side to the older dodges (as in the generation I own, 80-93) is the lack of displacement for gassers. 360 was the biggest you could get. I have an 85 crew cab with a 360 and 4spd and it pulls my RamCharger like it aint back there, but it only gets about 6-7 mpg doing it. You could get a 91-93 CTD with an auto trans, but most of them top out or are out of your price range. But as far as towing and wheeling the same truck, Id wheel the Crew Cab if it had some body protection.

Duane
 
I have a trade offer for a 96 Ram 1500 with 169k, quite a bit of maint done on it, etc. Extended cab, 4x4, 5.9L motor under the hood.

I believe I saw they have a Dana 44 up front and a Corp 9.25 in the rear.

I know the D44 would be ok with 33s or so, not sure what the locker options are for the 9.25. I guess just locking the rear and leaving the open would keep it pretty safe, add a winch to pull me over what I cannot make in "3wd"

and/or just pick up an atv to throw in the bed as suggested or a cheap XJ to beat on...

http://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-tr...andcruiser-elockers-fs-trade.html#post3628898
 
SHINTON said:
My budget will prob be in the $6-7k range but willing to spend LESS and then get a bed toy if that ends up being the best option.
Click to expand...

Had one of those once and she ended up costing me a LOT more than $7k :rolleyes:

BOT, what is the main problem? The 6 won't "hold" speed? If that is all and you don't tow that much, just live with it. Safer and less stressful going slow anyway. 'Course that dosen't scratch the "Yager itch" :) I have considered the idea of a set of off road wheels/tires for my Dodge 2500 to use at the easier venues. There are times when enclosed cab, AC, heat, etc would sure be nice!
 
have a dakota with 4.7L v8. it has a lot of power for the size, and will cruise at 75mph with 6kload 2250rpm or so. 3.55 gears. also with that load/speed Im pulling about 15.5mpg and thats with quad cab and a passenger.
 
Sam, Keep in mind that thats an extended cab and not a quad cab. The rear doors dont open, you have to fold the seats forward to climb in and out of the back. i cant remember if you were concerned with hauling family or not.
 
Looks like that is gonna end up being my trade, with it was a 1 ton but I guess since I am prob gonna stick with 33s to 35s a dana 44 will hold up anyway. (Esp if I don't bother locking it)

Now to start looking at what are good options for the 1500 series (leveling kits are popular I see) and what I can fit. Course it looks pretty good with those BFGs on it

http://community.webshots.com/user/shinton1970

Uploaded pictures of the Ram!

Sam
 
Looking good. look out for dash crack. what was the motor size again?
pavementsucks.com is a good resource for dodges.
 
SHINTON said:
Towing, not as well as I hoped. The I-6, has lots of low RPM torque, but really won't "hold" 60-65 on the hwy towing 6k behind it. (I might could really force it to drop to 2nd to hold but then lots of rpms for really long periods of time does nothing good for the engine I am sure)
Click to expand...

Why don't you just address this problem?

A supercharged FJ80 won't do any worse than a big block in MPG's...

P.S. The only good thing about my Dodge was the Cummins under the hood, and the train horns under the bumper, and that has neither.. You'll be longing to have that FJ80 back. For fuck's sake, you'll spend more in fixing Dodge's shit-ass 4wd front end than a used SC will cost. unit bearing hubs at 300 each, CAD posi-lock at 150, track bar fix at 300-500, TRE's, etc., etc..
 
Already has the infamous dash crack, 5.9L (360 for those of us who think in cubic inches by gosh!)

Looking at the leveling kits, there is one for sale on here, I think you can fit up to 35s with that installed.

Course then I have a brand new set of BFG All Terrains he put on there I will have to sell or trade. 265/75/16s
 
I have a good *cheap* xj that wouldnt hurt your budget
 
SHINTON said:
Already has the infamous dash crack, 5.9L (360 for those of us who think in cubic inches by gosh!)
Looking at the leveling kits, there is one for sale on here, I think you can fit up to 35s with that installed.
Course then I have a brand new set of BFG All Terrains he put on there I will have to sell or trade. 265/75/16s
Click to expand...

The PO of my old black Ram said 35s fit fine under it (~2" levelling kit) but the mpg went to hell. That was a 3.54geared 24V, he said it was much better when he went back to 285s (I think they're ~33").
 
Back
Top