1 ton tierod and draglink

guffey24

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2006
Location
Hendersonville, NC
First off, my Jeep will be trailered most of the time, but I would like to throw the kids in the back and go to the store, SAFELY

I am having some trouble getting the death wobble to go away

I took the stock tie rod off my 1 ton Dodge axles and shortened it for my H1 wheels, used the old tierod ends, because they seemed to be okay

tell me if this is okay

I can take the tierod and roll it forward and backward with my hand, not much pressure either

as for the draglink, I made it out of 1" dom, and it has new tierod ends

where should I start with this


And I might be looking for someone to build me a 1 ton tierod and draglink

anybody know anybody?
 
Install a steering stabilizer
 
Are your tires balanced?

Do you have high steer? If so you want your tie rod and drag link to be paralell.

Might want to get some new tie rod ends too.

:beer:
 
Do you have hydro assist?
 
check the caster.
 
Steering box brace would help

I am running H1's, they are supposed to be internally balanced

I have high steer on both knuckles and tierod and draglink are parallel

no hydro assist

Caster is something that I have not checked, but I didnt change the front axle perches, I left them stock and outboarded my spring hangars, and shackle mounts

I have an idea that just popped into my head earlier that the tierod ends off the Dodge tierod might be a bit smaller than the tapered holes that Harsh Terrain bored in the high steer arms

I need to mic the tapers on the new draglink tierod ends, and see If there is a difference between those and the ends on the old ones
 
Got a steering damper?
 
Death wobble is always caused by something worn in a strange way, whether it be tires or tie rods or even ball joints. I has been my experience that DW always comes fromt he tires. If your castor is too much to the positive your front end will chase the road. If those tie rod ends are loose in the holes that allows a lot of slop. I went through that recently too. I would try to find some other tires and see how it drives. Then look at the tie rods and lastly ball joints. You can build your owntie rod and drag link pretty easily. I am building mine as we speak. so far it cost $120 for TRE's, $40, for weld in bungs, I already had the DOM tube, and the reamer is $40.00. Pretty simple. Parts mike has a kit as well. Good luck
 
If your castor is too much to the positive your front end will chase the road.

Actually, that's negative caster you described.. ;)
 
Steering box brace would help
I am running H1's, they are supposed to be internally balanced
I have high steer on both knuckles and tierod and draglink are parallel
no hydro assist
Caster is something that I have not checked, but I didnt change the front axle perches, I left them stock and outboarded my spring hangars, and shackle mounts
I have an idea that just popped into my head earlier that the tierod ends off the Dodge tierod might be a bit smaller than the tapered holes that Harsh Terrain bored in the high steer arms
I need to mic the tapers on the new draglink tierod ends, and see If there is a difference between those and the ends on the old ones

I had the same problem. I put the wrong tierod end on my draglink. It had slop inside the high steer arm. As soon as I hit a bump it would go all to hell.
 
Death wobble is always caused by something worn in a strange way, whether it be tires or tie rods or even ball joints. I has been my experience that DW always comes fromt he tires.


to offer a different perspective...I've never had it caused by something worn in a strange way...

it's either been a vehicle that needed an alignment (usually immediately after a lift install, so nothing is "worn in a strange way" at that point)...or something loose...

the something loose has almost always been the front track bar...but control arms, tie rods, draglinks and pretty much any other nut/bolt on the front end could be the culprit...

Greg
 
Okay I may have located a problem

the tierod ends are the right size

the end that goes to the high steer arm from the draglink is right

but the tre that goes to the pitman arm is as loose as a goose, I bought the pitman arm from somebody here and It had already been reamed. The tre is very loose

so I need a new pitman arm or find a tre that fits the old arm

I am hoping that this is my problem

I am also going to take it to an alingment shop and let them check it out
 
What kind of tires ?
Internally ballanced ?
Did you do this or a shop?
Are you using a cut down mag insert or plastic ?

Have you checked the run out on your H1s ?
Checked hub/wheel bearings for excess play ?

Definitely don't skimp of using the right ends.
 
What kind of tires ?
Internally ballanced ?
Did you do this or a shop?
Are you using a cut down mag insert or plastic ?

Have you checked the run out on your H1s ?
Checked hub/wheel bearings for excess play ?

Definitely don't skimp of using the right ends.

I am running those 36" military tires that came with the H1's, not a very good road tire

I was under the impression that all H1's were internally balanced, so I havent had a shop look at anything yet

I havent had the tires off to know wether they are magnesium run flats , but most 8 bolt H1's had the mags

explain what you mean about run out

wheel bearings seem good and tight

I am going to take it by a alignment shop and let them check everything out

I have also heard that you can balance H1's externally, might need to do that

as for the tierod and drag link ends they are all 1 ton moog

I had to order a new draglink end for the pitman arm, installed it and drove the Jeep for about 10 min with no problem, the minute I hit the first pot whole it was over, I came to a screeching halt and death wobble was back

If things dont improve soon I am thinking of ditching the H1's and running some H2 wheels and picking out some different tires
 
None of the Hummers I ever drove had balanced tires. (They all had the 8-bolt wheels IIRC)
 
None of the Hummers I ever drove had balanced tires. (They all had the 8-bolt wheels IIRC)

Exactly Rich! What works "OK" on an 8000# + Hummer, will likely rattle you teeth out on a 4-k-5k# Jeep! Regardless of whether you have mag or PVC runflats, there's NO "internal balancing" capabilities to those rims or tires!

IMHO, you need to have them spin balanced before you chase anymore ghosts! I got DW about 5 years ago and it was solely attributed to the front tires being grossly out of balance...
 
i've never balanced either of my sets of 39.5x18x15 boggers and i've never had problems..... my jeep weighs in at 3702....
 
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