10 bolts and boggers

mosh5186

mosh5186

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Mar 14, 2008
Location
Kannapolis
i have a 88 k5 blazer with stock axles gov loc rear sitting on some 33x12.50x15 boggers. Should i worry about breaking them ? Is there anything i should beef up on them, like stronger axles? Any help would be great> thanks
 
yes put in a 14bolt otherwise easy on the gas pedal. usually the gov lok will explode before anything else which can make it possible to get off the trail.
 
Yes you should be worried. Gov bombs SUCK. Ask me how I know.


P.S. - two broken c-clips, a busted carrier, chipped ring gear, broken spider gears.
 
that and 10 bolt axles aren't notorious for being strong. . .
 
I bought a tranny and t-case from a guy in mt airy yesterday that had a 14 bolt single wheel for sale that came out of a 95 truck, wanted 200 for it. let me know if ya want his name and number.
 
i ran a set of welded stock k5 axles in my cj7 with 44in boggers for over a year. built 304 and 3spd. i stayed only in the mud with my jeep, never any rocks. it took a 460 and a c-6 to destroy them. i think you would be fine
 
10 bolt rear

You can get a rear from Pull-A-Part in Charlotte for $68.00 and $10.00 core charge. Every time I go down there I see several trucks with D60 or 14ff in them. As cheap as they are I have been thinking about going down and pulling one of them and trying to make me some extra money off one, but I can't never find the time or the extra money to do that. If you go down to get one 73 to 87 3/4 ton Chevy or GMC trucks will fit. I put a 12 bolt under my 86 Blazer because I already had a posi unit and 3:73 gears to fit one but they are getting harder to find than the D60 or 14ff. Good luck, Brian W.
 
Brian said:
I put a 12 bolt under my 86 Blazer because I already had a posi unit and 3:73 gears to fit one but they are getting harder to find than the D60 or 14ff. Good luck, Brian W.
Click to expand...

The 12 bolt is marginally weaker than 10bolt, and in no way in the same category as the D60/ Corp. 14
 
as said the gov lock will be your fuse.
at 33s you are "ok, maybe" depending on how you drive and wheel.

I would replace the rear with a 14 they can be had for $150-$200 or less....
the front, be easy and dont lock it...
 
I ran a 10 bolt frt/rr for a few years with 36's. It was in a 91 yj with 4.0 HO nv4500 and D300, with 4.88s in the diffs, both lived fine even with frt digs on the front. The rear welded gov loc did finally pop pulling a u turn on a paved road. I'd detroit it and not worry about it. Mine took a hell of a beating in the rocks for years. The 14 bolt would be waaayyy overkill and would kill any ground clearance. Go with a 60 shaved on the bottom if your set on swapping, but you'll still have to swap to 8 lug hubs up front. The detroit swapped into the rear is gonna be your best/cheapest bet.
 
Seriously man, if you do any real wheeling, you're going to kick yourself when you break those c-clips. It really sucks and makes the recovery impossible. Being able to steer and roll are the essentials in a vehicle, and semi-float axles seriously discourage rolling when you break.
 
I am the minority
I run 10/12 bolt combo for 6 years. Daily Driver/trail rig. CJ-7. spring over 4.10 geared with ARB's, hitting the ground with 35 mudkings for the road and 35 boggers for the trail.
Never broke an axle, but knew it could happen, so I had a spare for all four corners
 
It's not really even a spare axle so much as a spare loaded carrier that you would need. From what I've read, the people that are getting these things to survive have been on light jeeps, not fullsize chevys. This guy is wanting to run boggers on a fullsize chevy. He needs to swap.
 
I have a 10b front under my K5 with 38.5 boggers....and it hasnt popped a thing.

It IS open....
 
10 bolt front is technically a full floating axle. Shaft goes to hub, hub goes to wheel. Viola. A rear 10 bolt is semi-float. It sucks. Enough said.
 
i've been running stock 10 bolts in 84 surb with 35x1250 and 33x1550 swampers for about 4 years. i broke 2 axles my fault gov loc unlocks about 30mph if both tires are in the air when they slow down and the diff locks up again pop goes the axle you can't better the ground clearence, they are cheap just stay off skinny pedal when airborne
 
I plan on running my 10 bolts with 37's for the time being. I will have spares with me though. I have never wheeled the 37's yet but when I ran the 33's I broke the front shafts many times. Never broke a rear shaft to date. I need to go knock on some wood now.
 
It is simply a driving style issue. I have broke IFS44 shaft w/ 33s. go easy and it will last, want to have some 5K RPM fun it will go boom.

i am in the latter camp.
 
run it and carry spares, its time to upgrade when your tired of replacing shafts.
 
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