1500 to 2500 ?

yotawheelin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Location
rock hill
this may or may not be the right section but i have a 1996 chevy 1500 custom centruion model. this is a full 4 door crew cab reg 6' bed truck for those who may not know. I know easiest thing to do would be to seel the truck and buy a 2500 model but considering how i got the truck, how rare it is and all the work i have already put into it i cant see selling it anytime soon. so my question is, is their anyway i can convert this truck to handle heavier loads towing and bed capacity the correct way? frame stiffing? springs? axles? ggearing? exc...it has a 10 bolt rear end in it with 3.73 gear raito.. it is a z71 package with keys and add-a-leafs currently installed. any help would be greatly thankful for. any companysor shop who do have done this before or do it regulary would be nice too. thanks
 
You'll need a 3/4 ton or 1 ton frame, and 3/4 or 1 ton axles.
 
I thought these came with a sf 14B? Anyways I'd leave it and buy a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. If you really wanted to change some stuff what you would change would depend on how much you want to tow.
 
Buy a 3500 w/t and put your cab on it. Sell the 1500 with the w/t cab.
 
I thought those trucks were already "heavy halfs". Does it run six lug or eight lug wheels? What's the GVWR on the door?
 
I'd forgotten about that... :lol:
 
before yall go any further let me make it clear i dont want to tow a gooseneck with a z71. I have a 16 foot dual axle car hauler brakes and all i tow either a caged sami on or a small truck like yotas. i just want it to be a rigid safest tow as posible. i would like to know if i need to brace it where? what add ons help are worth the money and any other tips yall have with experience. i also would like to gain a little pullin power. i know regearing the axles is biggest help, i have 3.73s now. im running a 285/75/16 duratracs now what gear ratio would be best? and if anybody is running that ratio whats it like on fuel and or rpm range at highway speeds?
 
Check the gvwr tag on the door like Shawn said. You should be fine with what you have. As long as you have a big trans cooler and a brake controller. As far as more pulling power, I would look into 6.0 swap. Gearing it will help you get moving but the main problem with half ton towing is brakes. I would like to be able to control the trailer without trailer brakes just in case something happens. What if your trailer gets unplugged somehow and you havent noticed your brake box isnt on. If you have to stop short and youre counting on the trailer brakes youre gonna need some new undies at best.
 
yotawheelin said:
before yall go any further let me make it clear i dont want to tow a gooseneck with a z71. I have a 16 foot dual axle car hauler brakes and all i tow either a caged sami on or a small truck like yotas.
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If that is all you will be towing, then I would think you are fine as-is. Dual braking axles on the trailer would be a good idea.

If you want to regear, I would probably look into 3/4 or 1 ton rear axle swap before I dumped money on the 10 bolt (assuming that is what you have). A lot of 3/4 and 1 ton axles can be found with 4.10 gears which would probably be good with those 285's.
 
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Shameless plug :flipoff2:

I have a Suburban 2500 with the 454 big block for sale right now in the classifieds for less than you could even START to buy enough stuff to "swap" your 1500 to a 2500. Cant beat it! Its got as much cab room as your Centurion and will pull anything you want it to.
 
I tow a 16' trailer, dual axle surge brakes, with a 98 ext cab Z-71. Handles good, rides good, not enough 5.7 power, brakes SUCK. PS: hauling 4K CJ. 9-11 mpg towing, depending on terrain. Looked into doing a 383; too many changes for a OBD2. Looked into swapping a 6.0 = same deal, just not worth the cost, of getting everything to work with OBD 2. SOMEDAY, I'll get a 3/4 ton.:(
 
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