1982 CJ7 Laredo Build - 5/17

Jeffncs

Jeffncs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2017
Location
Wake Forest
Looked at one and put a deposit on a CJ7. Once I have it home, y’all see pics and get the details.

1982 CJ7
Straight 6 (4.2l)
5 speed
Bought with mismatched 35s (now 33s)
Weird hardtop that has new home in VA

3 small rust spots and a dented rear valence. Otherwise, clean, solid body.

This is a project for my kids and I. They’ll learn to drive stick with a manual clutch unlike most!

Been a while, but a new project is was overdue!!
 
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This is a catch up thread...

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Installed a Centech harness.
Replaced a broken yoke on the AMC20 rear.
Installed Mile Marker hubs.
Installed extended SS brake lines.

Did a full body assessment and found rust in the following spots:
Left side panel below “Jeep” logo.
Right side panel below “Jeep” logo.
Left and right inner fender wells.
Surface rust on floors.


Time to break out the fab equipment and welder!
 
I was Sure wondering about the Dash & Windshield frame! Weird stuff had happened. Did you switch out the Dash? So much better now. Seems like a lot of rust for Texas? Maybe it was no the Gulf, & swallowed some salt water. Your work is coming along Good!
 
rodney eppes said:
I was Sure wondering about the Dash & Windshield frame! Weird stuff had happened. Did you switch out the Dash? So much better now. Seems like a lot of rust for Texas? Maybe it was no the Gulf, & swallowed some salt water. Your work is coming along Good!
Click to expand...

The w/s frames were an exercise of patience to get the donor corner lined up just right for perfect alignment.

I snagged a clean(er) dash close to Charlotte. I sprang for new gauges and controls. I'm using a single stage PPG factory color. Single stages are just easier for the backyard sprayer!

Regarding the rust... I was a little surprised too. It’s only been here for maybe 18 months. I was told it was a hunting camp rig. I’m sure it was never washed or cared for while on the property. You’ll love this pic. I drained all the fluids and flushed for a fresh start across the board. This fluid (see pic) required fill-flush-drain-repeat no less than 5 times to be the right color (clear for water then green for antifreeze)! I may have an engine rebuild in my future...

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As I venture into the world of body work and putty, I’m starting to talk with paint shops for final body prep, primer, blocks and, and color/clear. I’ll have to get the body close to being ready, as no one will even venture a budgetary number for planning purposes....I’m scared, very scared!

Id love to get this thing shot for $3k or less...

Soliciting recommendations for a shop or high quality hobbyist that’s willing to work on a cash basis around Wake Forest / Raleigh / Durham or within an hour of the area.

Auto Body / Paint Shop Recommendation
 
Using my angle grinder with a wire wheel, I took the drivers side quarter panel down to bare metal. The undercoating comes off, but it’s a pain!

I found another dent to pull (a lot of it popped right out!! @carolinatlc ). Ran a jitterbug with 80 grit over it then hit it with self etching rustoleum primer.

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Finished taking the drivers side down to steel and also stripped the cowl and passenger side fender. Finding light surface rust but nothing to lose sleep over. I’ll regret not cutting it out some day, but not today and not tomorrow. Hit all of it with rustoleum self-etching primer. I’m thrilled with progress after 2 full days working on getting the undercoating off!

I’ll continue moving down the passenger side and around the rear corners to have fresh steel to massage.


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Just a quick update...

Installed new poly body mounts and hardware. Also picked a shop to shoot the Jeep. It’s a small shop that works off of referrals only, so I won’t post his info until I see the final product and he OK’s me posting it.
 
Another productive day!!

Finished off stripping and priming the body with self-etching primer. It was way too early to quit, so I started spreading light coats of bondo to the small dents and scratches. The cool, slightly humid weather made for a long curing time.

On a downside, my middle son was helping by sanding the hood while it was setting on saw horses. He found a rotten mess under the drivers side hinge and it had more waves than the ocean! Those of you familiar with doing bodywork, know hoods are a major pain to weld and make look right. Too much heat makes the metal warps, too little heat and the welds won’t hold, and bondo doesn’t like the engine’s heat. I decided to cut my losses and texted Watson and Sons for a replacement hood. Heading to Pineville tomorrow to pick it up. They’re a salvage outfit specializing in Jeeps.

The all important pics...

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I made the drive over to see Watson and Sons for a good... I left with a lot more than planned including a YJ cage and a box of small parts. Here are a Couple pics of the new parts... the roll cage offers rear seat protection with 3-point seatbelt capability and better front seat coverage with a bar from the A pillar to main cage. The YJ cage install serves the need and avoids a >$700 cage plus welding time.

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No pics today.

Bodywork is 95% done. Painter drove up to see it and was impressed with my progress. I’m glad he didn’t say “it sucks!” Haha. He said that he’ll be able to almost roll it directly into the spray booth based on what he saw.

We agreed on paint the week of 3/16. He’ll have it for ~1 week.

Sticking with Sebring Red which is a stock color to 80s Jeeps. He’s also going to shoot the full interior with Raptor liner for durability and rust proofing.
 
She’s ready for paint! Finished filling some low spots, blocked the whole thing, red leaded some pin holes, mounted the tailgate, mounted the hood and started pulling random stuff off. The painter is going to take possession next Monday (3/16).

He’ll shoot Raptor liner on the interior tub and under the hood. Once that’s cured, he’ll block sand the tub, seal it, apply 4 coats of primer filler, wet sand for final finish, shoot color then clear coat it. I’m getting very excited!

He also asked me to pull of the dash pad, grab bar and anything else easily removed. He said he wants to also shoot the interior dash for me! Said it’ll finish the look inside and out!

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If it were me, I'd pull the roll bar too. Make it easier on the painter, & you'll probably find rust behind the floor mounts. You can rattle can the roll bar & clean up or restain/paint padding.
 
rodney eppes said:
If it were me, I'd pull the roll bar too. Make it easier on the painter, & you'll probably find rust behind the floor mounts. You can rattle can the roll bar & clean up or restain/paint padding.
Click to expand...

I pulled the Rollbar and welded in patches to repair... RUST!! The body, floor and frame are rock solid now.

I’m actually sending the Jeep to the painter on Sunday. He’s going to Raptor line the interior, seal the body, prime, block sand, and paint it next week. I did final prep today: pulled the heater box out, seam sealed the body and hood seam, and cleaned out the interior. It’s ready to be shot!
 
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