1984 Jeep CJ 7/Automatic Trans/Grand Wagoneer 360

CJM1971

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Joined
Jan 24, 2017
Location
Raleigh, NC
Morning, could use a little help from the folks smarter than myself out there on this stuff. I bought a used 84 CJ-7 with a Grand Wagoneer 360 in it, no clue if the automatic trans is the trans that came with the jeeps original 6 cylinder or with the 360 in it today, I guess I can assume its from the same vehicle the 360 came out of. I need to replace the Trans Cooler Lines, there are two of them coming off the uderpart of the radiator back to the trans, one of them is dripping fluid every couple of days (a drop or two) so I might as well replace both of them. Is there any reason I need to track down the metal bendy lines like it currently has or can I use something like steel braided trans cooling lines from Morris 4x4, Quadratec, Summit Racing, or some other aftermarket provider?
 
It's a Jeep. Your lucky it's only a drop or two.
First you need to find out exactly where it's leaking. Which line or is it at a connection. May be as simple as a loose fitting. I could be a bad fitting.
 
I found the leaking line, took a couple of pics the other night, looks like it's leaking at the coupling, but I wasn't sure if they sold just that elbow piece or if I needed to replace the whole line, and if I did replace the whole line could I used something other than the existing bendy metal lines on there today, it's been tough to find when I'm not sure if the trans is stock or the one that came with the 360 that was dropped in there
Trans Colling Line 2.JPG
Trans Cooling Line 1.JPG
 
Stick with the hard metal lines, they help dissipate heat from the tranny fluid. That looks like a compression fitting on the line, you should be able to tighten it a little. The elbow coming out of the radiator may need replacement or just resealing.

The tranny should either be a torqueflite 727, if it's the one that came with the 360, or a 999 if it's the original from the 258. (if memory serves correctly) I would presume whoever did the swap left the waggy drivetrain together for simplicity.
 
Thanks for the reply, would I tighten the fitting going into the radiator, tight the fitting with the drop of oil on it, or take them both out, go to my local auto parts store, and see what they sell to put on the threads to repack it?
 
The fitting on the hard line will not use any sealing compound on the threads. The fitting into the cooler would use sealing compound.
 
If I'm able to track down a place that sells the hard lines similar to whats on there today, since this isn't the original motor and I'm not 100% sure which tranny type is on there, will that make it impossible to find or are these fairly standard parts to replace and I will just need to know make, model, and year of the vehicle?
 
As stated dont replace the hard lines with flex lines.
1- They definitely help heat as stated above.
2- They are also just about the lowest thing on the vehicle, you dont want snags.


Try and lay under neath and take a picture of the pan on the automatic transmission. could be a 727, a 999 or possibly a th400 quadratrac.

The hard lines are available. First thing is figuring out what you have then we can point you towards the right hard lines. Those ends arent the factory style. I suspect that after the swap they shortened the factory lines and put new flare ends on.
You can buy new lines if you just want to spend the money, but this will be a problem best solved with a little time patience and tightening or possibly re-falring the line.
 
Thanks Ron, I will climb under there this evening and take some pictures of the trans and post them and maybe the trans type can be identified...would certaily help me going forward to know as much about the vehicle as possible
 
The v8 and auto trans was an option in the CJ so it's likely that the lines are interchangeable or that you can find one that fits for a CJ.

If it's the flared end that's leaking, you can likely just cut the end off and install a new flare and nut and be good to go. Sometimes the flare just needs some cleaning and tighten back up. I'd do that first then maybe try the new flare, then replace the line if those don't work.

If you replace the line, it's very likely you'll have to just get a stick length and cut, bend, and flare yourself to fit. Depending on where the next connection is, you may could buy stock lengths of tube with flares and fittings on it already and just bend to match what you have.
 
CJM1971 said:
Thanks Ron, I will climb under there this evening and take some pictures of the trans and post them and maybe the trans type can be identified...would certaily help me going forward to know as much about the vehicle as possible
Click to expand...


Does the REAR driveshaft come out of the center of the transfer case? Or is it offset to the passenger side?
 
rockcity said:
If you replace the line, it's very likely you'll have to just get a stick length and cut, bend, and flare yourself to fit. Depending on where the next connection is, you may could buy stock lengths of tube with flares and fittings on it already and just bend to match what you have.
Click to expand...

The factory pre-bent lines are around $50 and available through quadratec or summit even.

If the fitting was bad and it were me, Id get a couple 3" stubs and thread them into the radiator/cooler and then use a short length of rubber hose and connect to the balance of the existing steel. added vibration isolation is a boost to leaks at the radiator.
 
And to further add to the confusion... the AMC 360 was also offered with a TH-400/D20 in the early '70's, well prior to the QuadraTrac & TorqueFlites

And to further press the point attempted in your previous thread... take the radiator OUT of the equation before you find out the hard way that a tiny split in the "cooler" (tube inside radiator) will allow pressurized coolant into the tranny = $$$$
 
Morning all, here are the pics I took, I really appreciate the help! It's frustrating, you focus on one thing and another pop's up. Took my jeep to Henrys Muffler here locally a few weeks ago....they did great work on the exhaust, the tech mentioned having to 'tweak' the trans linkage to make it all work and now when I put it in Park it still rolls backwards. Part of me is saying take the damn thing to a trans shop and tell them to just take care of all of it. Have left 2 messages for the tech to discuss it and nothing...not sure I would even want to take it back to them but it worked before they got it....ugh. Anyway, here are the pics....thanks again. Transmission 1.png Transmission 2.png Transmission 3.png Dana Transfer Case 2.png
 
That looks like the 999 transmission with the d300. I do not believe it was used it the grand wagoners with the 360 sonit is likely the stock transmission from your CJ.

I'd be pissed about the linkage and see if can be fixed soon. Remove the exhaust if you have to and have them redo it. No reason to compromise on your shift linkage for some exhaust.
 
Any suggestions in where I can get a pair of new Trans Cooling Lines? Kind of hard to explain to my local parts store when its not the stock motor and thats what their system will look up for my model. Since it appears to be the original 999 Trans for this model CJ I will assume the info they pull for an 84 CJ 7 will work since the motor size shouldnt have anything to do with this part....Im guessing.
 
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