1989 Ford Ranger Front Axle Suggestions...

[rodnocker]

Current situation:
I currently have a stock dana 28 TTB that needs alignment and bearings replaced/repacked.
I've been thinking of replacing with either a dana 35 TTB or a dana 30 solid from a Cherokee.
I am currently running 31's and while I may one day go to 33's, I don't foresee going larger than that.
This truck is used mostly for hauling trash to the dump, working some around the farm and going hunting/fishing. I would like to make it to where I can trust it as a DD but also not worry about taking to the mud and sand. I don't foresee this as a URE truck though.

Back Story:
I traded a rifle for this truck and as it sits right now, I have about $500.00 invested in it. I don't drive it much at all right now because of the bearings and the front end alignment, but if I am going to swap out the front end, I don't want to invest in getting that fixed when it is going to be replaced. I am trying to keep it as cheap as I am able.

My thoughts:
1. Fix the 28 and run it like it is until it breaks or I can trade up to something bigger.
2. Replace the d28TTB with a d35TTB (and the 7.5 rear with an 8.8). This would also allow me to get LS gears from a Cherokee dana 35 and put them in the d35TTB.
3. Replace the d28TTB with a dana 30 solid axle, the 7.5 with an 8.8 and get a cheap lunch box locker for each.

I am currently running the stock 3.73 gears with 31's which seem to be a little hard on the 2.9 that is currently in it. I do have a wrecked truck that I've been pulling parts from that has a 4.0 that I'm guessing would do fine with these gears, I've just not been able to get that swapped over yet.

While keeping in mind what my planned uses for the truck are, I was just curious what y'all would suggest as far as next steps on this.

and... there has to be pictures...

This is pretty much as the truck is now... except I broke the sliding glass window that I need to replace, and I have an "under the rail" bed-liner in it now also.

 

[jimbo92]

I'd rock a Dana 35 ttb an 8.8

 

[pcole0920]

Hp30 from a Cherokee and a 8.8 or go to yj wrangler axles from a 4cyl got get the 4.10 gears. Yes the rear will be a d35 but keep it open and you'll be ok for a while

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

1st most important question auto trans or manual. Auto stay with 31's or build multiple transmissions. Manual I'd go with the later IFS swap and save money by keeping the rear stock with a lockright or otherlunch box locker, it'll be fine. Some of those had factory 4.10 mine did, 33's will pull in low range fine but want make any speedy tracks on pavement. The 28 will puke shafts left and right with mild mud tires in the 31 variety. The IFS will ride and flex as well or better than a bastard pack of leafs with less fab. Old Style Radius arm setups (70's Ford) on these bring the suck as far as flex unless one is wristed. Four linking can be done but the frame and exhaust on these trucks make them a bear to package. I like James Duff lift for these if you by a good preforming lift. All the others have stupid stiff spring rates with Sky Jacker being the worst. Cherokee coils require modifying to work these but they are flexy.

 

[rodnocker]

1st most important question auto trans or manual.

The transmission I have currently is the Mitsubishi FM146 5 speed. I have heard this should be fine as long as I'm not to hard on it. I'm not going to do the 4.0 clutch plate and flywheel upgrade for this reason also. If something is going to give, I would rather it be the clutch than the transmission. Once I get this stuff done, I do plan on trying to find a Mazda M50D-R1 to drop in once I do the 4.0 swap. I also have the Borg Warner 1354 Electric transfer case that I hope to change to manual one day as well... but one step at a time.

... and save money by keeping the rear stock with a lockright or otherlunch box locker, it'll be fine.

Just to make sure, are you saying to stay with my 7.5 rear and use a lockright? I've always heard that due to lack of support for the 7.5, it is usually cheaper (and much stronger) to get an 8.8 and lock it.

 

[rodnocker]

Hp30 from a Cherokee and a 8.8

I'm curious, do you have a reason for suggesting the Dana 30 over the Dana35 TTB?

... or go to yj wrangler axles from a 4cyl got get the 4.10 gears. Yes the rear will be a d35 but keep it open and you'll be ok for a while

Doubt I'll go this route simply due to needing to keep the rear open. Most of what I need 4x4 for is mud and I would prefer to have at least L/S if not a small locker.

 

[rodnocker]

I'd rock a Dana 35 ttb an 8.8

I am actually leaning this direction. Mostly because of the direct bolt-up of the 35 ttb, the availability of the L/S from a Cherokee, and if I'm patient I am hoping I can find someone going SAS and pick up their 35 ttb.

 

[pcole0920]

Reason I said hp30 is just based on having a solid front axle. 8.8 rear ends are a dime a dozen with LS in them. I've got 2 if u are needing one. The hp30 and 8.8 is a very strong set up with up to a 33" tire. I've got buddys that run same set up with 36" tire and beat the piss out of them, yea at times they get a front axle shaft but its alot stronger then a d35 TTB

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

I only said to keep the 7.5 if you weren't going over 33's, no serious rock crawling, and keeping it cheap. 8.8's are far superior and have a lot more aftermarket support. You got the cash I'd upgrade to the 8.8 in a heart beat. I do know from experience the 7.5 will handle 33's well enough. I ended up going bigger and swapped both ends and spent more money, I really miss the simplicity of the built IFS and stock rear over what its become. Esp., since most wheeling is hours away and I'd rather DD my truck more than let it sit.

 

[rodnocker]

I wouldn't mind keeping the 7.5 if it were at least L/S. Problem is that a lock-right for the 7.5 is going to run around $400.00 and I should easily be able to find an 8.8 used with a locker or L/S for that amount. That is why I was trying to clarify what you said about saving money and keeping it stock but adding a lock-right (or similar).

 

[88jeepster]

I wouldn't mind keeping the 7.5 if it were at least L/S. Problem is that a lock-right for the 7.5 is going to run around $400.00 and I should easily be able to find an 8.8 used with a locker or L/S for that amount. That is why I was trying to clarify what you said about saving money and keeping it stock but adding a lock-right (or similar).

hey man, i'll keep you up to date but I might be getting a D44 front TTB for my ranger and you can have the D35 with 3.73 welded if you want for cheap. i'll keep you posted if/when funds are there to get it.

 

[88jeepster]

btw, I also have a HP30 XJ front Disconnect with 3.07 if interested complete hub to hub with gearbox attached, just for thought. and also wanted to know those 31s fit on there with no lift or is that small 2"?

 

[cody w]

Dana 30 is the easy way to go for the money and alot less problems vs ttb 44
The ttb is tough but will give trouble id take a 30 over it any day in a ranger

 

[fordwheelinman]

If you have no plans on using this at URE, stay with the D28 and just fix it. Cheaper, easier, and quicker. Then again as all things you, you may get the urge to go to URE and the only rig you have running is the ranger, you'll second guess going unless you have the D35. If it were me, and I had to spend money to fix one right, I'd spend the money on bearings and alignment on a worry free D35. I have a D35 in my explorer and have run 33's at URE with no thoughts of broken shafts or problems. If you do end up wanting the 35, get one from a 95-97 ranger with dual piston calipers, axle is still a bolt in swap, and you get up-graded brakes in the process. Go with Explorer 8.8 if you decided to change. Drum brakes are fine since you don't have to change master cylinders or proportioning valves. Explorer 8.8's have the same spring perch width, but are spring under factory and will need new perches welded on.

 

[rodnocker]

Pretty sure I'm going to go with the DANA 35ttb for the front. Been looking and had a couple fall through but I'll get it eventually. No big rush right now, no room in the garage to change it out anyways.

 

[88jeepster]

don't know much about rangers but the one I got with the 35ttb, welded up for 3 months now on 33s and go play in the woods every weekend or couple times a week to the fishing hole which requires 4lo to get out when dry and really hittin 4lo with tires at 5psi when wet to get out but the homemade c-clip eliminator has held up great and the axles/joints/and hubs have held up pretty good so I guess I was just adding some props 2cents to the ranger!!

 

[fordwheelinman]

rodnocker, i have a complete D35 and explorer drum 8.8 sitting in the shed. Rear is a limited slip, only problem is they are both 3.23 gears so those would have to be changed, but i'll cut you a deal on them if you want them.

 

[rodnocker]

rodnocker, i have a complete D35 and explorer drum 8.8 sitting in the shed. Rear is a limited slip, only problem is they are both 3.23 gears so those would have to be changed, but i'll cut you a deal on them if you want them.

I really appreciate the offer and it is very tempting. The gears would be an issue but not as much as the 9 hour round trip. I will keep it in mind incase something comes up and I have to head out that way though.