2000 xj headgasket and head change?

2010nctaco

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Feb 16, 2013
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So I could have googled I guess but figured I would ask here and get first hand info. How difficult and expensive would it be to change the headgasket on a 4.0 jeep? My little sister let her jeep overheat and blew the headgasket. Probably needs a new head as well I would think.
Would I be better off changing the whole engine? What would be a good price for a used engine?

I mostly mess with toyota and vw junk. Bolt ons, changed water pumps, turbo, clutch ect, would this be over my head to take on this project?
Thanks guys.


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A used engine is a crap shoot. The head is ready to change. If it's cracked find a good 0360 casting and use it instead. Go ahead and change the freeze plugs while your in there. The biggest pain is the bottom intake/exhaust bolts.
IMG_20161214_151654349.jpg
 
2000 model was bad about cracking the head. Count on replacing it with a better casting. So much to read on google about the 0331 heads cracking in the 00' model.
Head job ain't too bad if you got the place/tools/time. Get a good upper gasket kit and go to town. Soak the manifold bolts with PB blaster daily a few days before you start.
Need some good swivels and extensions.
If I remember right you need to loosen the motor mounts, and tranny mount to drop it down a little to get to the very back head bolt.


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I've never had to mess with the motor mounts or trans mount when pulling the head on a 4.0 in an XJ and I've done several. However I do recommend replacing the worn out stock motor mounts while you have the intake and exhaust manifolds out of the way if you have an engine hoist handy. And if you don't have an engine hoist handy, get a buddy to help you get the head off and back on, that sucker is heavy.
 
If it's just the head gasket, you'll be out under $200 total in parts total
Here's a few tips. I've done literally hundreds of them.
Leave the manifolds on during removal and installation. It'll be much easier to properly torque the bolts that way.
You'll need a deep 12 point 1/2" socket for the head bolts.
The drivers rear head bolt may not come out due to hitting a lip on the firewall. Instead of dropping motor mounts, loosen the bolt, pull it up and tie a rag around it in order to keep it "up".
When you're ready to lift the head off the block, reinstall 2 of the rocker arm bridges and run a rope or good shop rag through them. They'll act as a handle to grab onto.

Jeep 4.0s are so remarkably easy to work on. You'll have no issue if you're somewhat mechanically inclined
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I think you talked me into it. Now does anyone have a good head laying around for cheap? Or know where the best place to buy one is? Thanks!


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If it's just the head gasket, you'll be out under $200 total in parts total
Here's a few tips. I've done literally hundreds of them.
Leave the manifolds on during removal and installation. It'll be much easier to properly torque the bolts that way.
You'll need a deep 12 point 1/2" socket for the head bolts.
The drivers rear head bolt may not come out due to hitting a lip on the firewall. Instead of dropping motor mounts, loosen the bolt, pull it up and tie a rag around it in order to keep it "up".
When you're ready to lift the head off the block, reinstall 2 of the rocker arm bridges and run a rope or good shop rag through them. They'll act as a handle to grab onto.

Jeep 4.0s are so remarkably easy to work on. You'll have no issue if you're somewhat mechanically inclined

Really good info there. I would like to add that there is one bolt that gets torqued less than the rest and from what I have been told there is a reason....... Just what I was told by a local mechanic friend.
 
Really good info there. I would like to add that there is one bolt that gets torqued less than the rest and from what I have been told there is a reason....... Just what I was told by a local mechanic friend.

Driver's front head bolt gets thread sealer applied to it upon installation as it goes into a water jacket. :D
 
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