2001 Volvo s40, NO start

lilfoot

Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Location
Marion,N.C.
I've already checked everything on this car including resetting the imobilizer system. all the codes that appeared are gone now after changing cam and crank sensors. It had a new timing belt and tensioner put on 2 months ago and run fine with 200,000 mi. on it until one day out of the blue, no start. I"m getting fuel(havent check psi), fire to the plugs, fuel pump can be heard in the tank doin it's job. I've read lots of things on the web about this and have tried lots of things, just wondering if anyone owned one of these or knew of one having this problem before I take it to a stealership. Thanks.
 
Pull the plugs and see if they're wet. Just cause the fuel pump is pumping doesn't mean the engine controller is cycling the injectors. Also does it sound like it normally does when cranking over? If it spins faster than normal and doesn't change pitch with each compression stroke it is possible it's lost compression. In which case put some oil in each spark plug hole and reinstall plugs. My thoughts are with the immobilizer though. What did you do to "reset it"? BMW uses a "rolling code" where each start it changes the code between key and car and if they're different, it won't start. I'm thinking Volvo does something similar. BMWs can only be reset with BMW's diagnostic equipment. A Genesis or the like won't do it.
 
The immobilizer has a lock unlock 5 times on the key fob, thats not the prob. according to the shop manager at volvo of hickory and he also said the 01 didn't require any reprograming or flashing some call it. spoke to a guy today that told me to unplug the h02s and try to crank it, this was the one code that was intermitten prior to the no start. If that doesn't do it it's goin to the garage, I'm stumped. I'll let you know.
 
BMWs can only be reset with BMW's diagnostic equipment. A Genesis or the like won't do it.
ahh but there are systems that are NOT BMW's that will do this.

As for your Volvo, I'd find a reputable indepedent shop and have them diagnose it, I'd make sure they do lots of Volvo work. I have soooooo many customers try and fix their car at the house by throwing parts at them that they don't need. They end up spending twice the amount of time and money than if they just broke down and took it to the shop. It sounds like you've check the basics (fuel, air, ignition). In most cases the immobilizer cuts off the ignition or injection pulse, I'd check the fuel pressure next if you're hell bent on fixing it yourself.
I just read your post again, just because you can hear the pump run doesn't mean the injectors are pulsing, have you checked that?
 
Just an FYI those with a Snap On scanner and the newest update now have full volvo coverage....
 
Yep, I tested each injector pulse with a noid light and it seemed ok. The plugs seem to be gettin plenty of fuel because I can turn it over a few times and the plugs are soaked. That doesn't really mean anything except that its gettin fuel to the cylinders. I had it hauled to an import shop today to keep from losing it. I'll keep ya'll posted. BTW, this is my daughters car, she always looks to me to fix stuff, thats why I'm loosing it because until this I've always been able to. Snappy, thanks for the info, my friend has a Snap on scan tool. I'll have to see if he has all the updates for future reff. Thanx fellers.
 
I've already checked everything on this car including resetting the imobilizer system. all the codes that appeared are gone now after changing cam and crank sensors. It had a new timing belt and tensioner put on 2 months ago and run fine with 200,000 mi. on it until one day out of the blue, no start. I"m getting fuel(havent check psi), fire to the plugs, fuel pump can be heard in the tank doin it's job. I've read lots of things on the web about this and have tried lots of things, just wondering if anyone owned one of these or knew of one having this problem before I take it to a stealership. Thanks.
engine coolant temperature sensor or fuel pressure regualtor? guess a little to late but keep us posted on the fix.
 
Update, I kinda thought this from the beginning, but wasn't able to check for the lack of tools, but the guy I sent it to said that cyl. 1 & 2 are way below on compression. Thanks for everyones input. Now we know.
 
I have a 2000 with a new engine that I installed has 24000 on the engine will sell you the car for 2500 if interested and you can use your car for a parts car
 
Update, I kinda thought this from the beginning, but wasn't able to check for the lack of tools, but the guy I sent it to said that cyl. 1 & 2 are way below on compression. Thanks for everyones input. Now we know.


ouch! time to sell? i dont know how much a used engine is for one of those but i bet it's not cheap.

what's the firing order on that car? are cylinders 1 & 2 next to each other or on opposite sides?

if they're next to each other just wondering if you have a blown head gasket.

edit:^ok now i know how much a used engine is.
 
Yeah 1 and 2 are inline and no it's not blown. I was told by another independant import guru that 200,000 is the mark for this to happen. Found one for 1,200 dilivered, 6,300 mi. Not too bad.
 
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