2003 Chrysler Sebring brake issues

hightime81

hightime81

New Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2005
Location
Holly Springs, NC
:beer: Hi all,
it's been a while since i have been on the forum. just moved into my house in holly springs and am still mid - renovation. been doing a lot of round the house work.

anyways, to the root of the problem. my wife owns a 2003 sebring sedan as mentioned above. it is the 4cyl model and it just started shuddering when brakes applied.

now at highway speeds, this is a very noticable shudder. my guess is that the rotors are warped and need to be flipped or replaced. while i am at it, should i replace the calipers and brake pads?

i have never done this before, but i figure it can't be that bad. any tips, i would get a haynes manual, but i can't find one for this model year.
:driver:
also, now living in holly springs, and have found that i am relatively handy around the house, plumbing, floors, and the like, if anyone needs a hand shoot me a pm and i can give a helping hand.

later
 
Cheapist thing to do is take them off to get them turned, or just buy new rotors. Pads are not expensive so replacing them while you have everything appart is highly sugested. Calipers? if your around or over 80k miles it could be a good idea. Also if you have the extra money and its not much of a isses I would just change the calipers. I recently changed Calipers, rotors for the first time. Took a little over an hour the first side and about 30 min for the second side.
 
appreciate the advice. the car only has 30K on it (yea, i must've beat up on the brakes do warp the rotors this early), so i will change the pads, but not the calipers.
should i pick up a brake bleeder or is this necessary for this job?

thanks again
 
You should not have to disconnect the brake lines to do the job, so no bleeding is nesscessary, just be sure when u take the calipers off not to just let them dangle by the brake lines, tie them up with a coathanger or something, u dont want to over stress something that could mean life or death to you or your loved ones....

If i was doing this job, i would not waste my time and money on turned rotors, go to napa or somewhere and get replacement rotors, get new pads, while you have everything apart, and the calipers should be just fine with that kind of age on the car.. I would venture to say the pads are ok, but if the rotors were in such bad shape i would guess to say they might have groves in them and the old pads would transfer the groves to the new rotors.
 
Thanks, i am going to go ahead and get new rotors and pads. i appreciate the info. i am probably going to the Autozone in Holly Springs. Anyone here dealt with them recently? do they seem knowledgable, or should i head someplace else?
 
NCJeepin said:
You should not have to disconnect the brake lines to do the job, so no bleeding is nesscessary.........
Click to expand...

Actually, lightly pinch off the brake hose, and open the bleeder BEFORE you push the piston back into the caliper body. This will flush any contaminated fluid from the caliper and keep from pushing it back into the ABS control valves. Reducing the chance of anything happening there by pushing so much fliud backward thru the system at one time. This is common practice at most shops anymore. When you have everything remounted, before you remount the wheels, bleed the brakes ( should only take a few pumps to bleed)

This is highly suggested, as there can be contaminants in the fluid in the caliper, not to mention, fresh fluid never hurt a brake system.

Find out what pads your cars came with fromt he factory, Ceramic will last longer, and put off less dust, metalic pads can be really moisy in the wrong application. Don't even bother with the cheap organic pads, they won't last long at all.

NCJeepin said:
If i was doing this job, i would not waste my time and money on turned rotors, go to napa or somewhere and get replacement rotors, get new pads, while you have everything apart, and the calipers should be just fine with that kind of age on the car.. I would venture to say the pads are ok, but if the rotors were in such bad shape i would guess to say they might have groves in them and the old pads would transfer the groves to the new rotors.
Click to expand...

Rotors warped that bad will probably warp more in short order if turned (removing material from the rotors, making thinner, less able to handle heat)

Replace them, clean them well with brake cleaner before you install them, once everything is back together, short stops a few times before you get up to road speeds to burnish the pads to the rotors. Make sure the new pads either have shims on the back or you use high temp brake grease where the calipers and pads meet, and on caliper slides. reduces the chance for squeaks and squeals after the job is done ( just don't get any on t eh friction surfaces )

Suggestions that will help your brake system last longer and be more trouble free
 
I did the front brakes on my wife's old Sebring Convertible ('99) and it took about 15 mins per side. When you pull the wheel and caliper, the rotor will fall off onto your foot.

On the subject of brake pads, do not get sucked into the LIFETIME WARRANTY black hole of death. Yes, they will replace the hard-as-a-rock pads they sold you for free. They will also sell you new rotors that you warped because of the hard assed pads. Brake pads are a WEAR ITEM, they are not supposed to last forever. For brakes to work, they require friction. Friction occurs better between a softer and a harder surface than between two hard surfaces. They can't make the rotors any softer, sooo...
 
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