2006 Ram Mega-Purpose Rig

[AQHACowboy]

I am in the Army stationed in North Carolina and hit 20 years this past February and going strong still. I have been on the forum for a couple years doing as much reading as I am planning my expedition build. I was originally going to build my 2000 WJ, however I decided to change direction. I been looking at the Dodge ram and I am a member on Dodge Truck Xtreme. I have seen the potential of the Dodge Ram 2500 and 3500 SRW and decided to go that route. I am a scuba diver and on the county public safety dive team and an EMT and the extra cargo room is great for all my equipment is great. We have 2 kids do a lot as a family, road trips, camping, and fishing, etc. So I wanted something with more room for the kids and cargo space as well.

I got my 2006 Dodge Ram Mega Cab in February from Northern Alberta Canada and after talking to the wife the build sort of changed again from an exploration build. After reading threads going back a couple years in this forum and seeing the incredible rigs y'all have or are build has inspired me to do my build. I am building the truck to be able to do 45-50+ MPH down any bumpy dirt/fire road I am on, to crawling over rocky trails like you find in Moab UT, Uwharrie NC.

Here is my truck's current info and future mods and pictures.

Truck Information
Model:
2006 Ram 3500 Mega Cab SLT

Engine:
Stock 5.9L
ATS Sub-Zero Inner Cooler

Transmission:
48RE Goerend Billet Race Transmission

Body/Exterior:
Stock
De-badged

Suspension:
Carli 3 Inch Pin-Top 2.5 with
Carli Full leafs
08.5+ Steering Upgrade
Thuren Track Bar
Synergy Steering Brace

Brakes:
EBC Dimpled and Slotted Rotors
EDC Yellow Stuff Brake Pads on all four corners

Exhaust:
4" MBRP TBE with Muffler

Wheels/Tires:
Stock Wheels
35x12.5x17 Fuel Mud Gripper M/Ts

Exterior:
Color match fender flares (Will be deleted soon)
Fusion Front and Rear Bumpers

Interior:
Stock

Electrical/Lighting:
2 Light Force 140 Off Road lights
2 Light Force 170 Off Road lights

Sound system:
Kenwood DDX 616
2 amps
2 10" subs

Accessories/Options:
Amp-Research Power Steps

Performance:
Edge CTS Evolution
• EAS EGT Probe with Starter Kit
• EAS Pressure Sensor 0-100 PSIg 1/8IN NPT
• EAS Universal Sensor Input (5 Volt)

Future Suspension Modifications:
Synergy Long Arm Upgrade Kit
Synergy Heavy Duty Steering Kit
Carli Dodge Ram 2500/3500 3 Inch Leaf Packs
Boogie Front Bumps with Clamps
Boogie Rear Bump Stops With Brackets
Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit
Limit Straps
Solid Differential Cover
Yukon Locker for Chrysler 11.5" 30 spline axles
Yukon Chromoly 30 spline axles
9.25 AAM Front 4.56 Gears
11.5 AAM Rear 4.56 Gears
Fiberwerx Fenders
Fiberwerx Bed Sides
Trail Ready Bead Locks
Pitbull Muddog 38.5x13.5x17 Load E Tires

Viair Dual 400C OBA

Future Performance Modifications:
ARP 425 Head Studs
FASS Titanium 150 GPH
FASS Sump Kit w/o Bulk Head Fitting
EFI Live Autocal Tuner (Possible Future Mods, Circumstance Depending)
Smeding Diesel 62mm Cummins, Quick Spool Direct Drop-in Turbo (Possible Future Mods, Circumstance Depending)
• Compressor: 62 mm inducer / 83.5mm exducer, with exclusive Extended Tip Technology.
• Turbine: 76.2 mm inducer / 68 mm exducer. Cast in Inconel 713 for high-temperature operation

Added an Edge CST Evolution for gauges and a little extra power till I get my EFILive.

I was having some engine temperature issues and I found out my radiator was a little dirty.

So I got a couple cans of Gunk Gel and sprayed it down then took the pressure washer to it. I was careful not to bend any of the fins.

Added a Synergy steering brace and Thuren track bar.

Was taking some measurements for my on board air system and I found this. New spring will be ordered in the next few months.

Have some wiring issues that the previous left me with.

Already have a ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover to put in the truck.

I leave for another deployment the middle of next month and dere is a list of the first set of modifications I will be doing once I return.

Dynatrac HD Ball Joints (CR92-2X3050-A)
Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly (PN- SKF BR930507)
Front Axle U-Joints (Spicer 5006813 U Joint)
Carli Low Mount Stabilizer
Carli Limit Straps
Solid Differential Cover
Front Axle Truss (1.5 Inch OD DOM, .388 Inch Wall, 3/8 inch plate C Gussets)
Atlas Expedition packs

I will update this post and add pictures as my build continues.

 

[shawn]

I did the Dynatrac ball joints on mine the last time it needed redone. Very nice.

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Where at in Alberta you get it from ? I am originally from a small town due north of Edmonton.

 

[AQHACowboy]

Where at in Alberta you get it from ? I am originally from a small town due north of Edmonton.

Its from Fort McMurray and it was shipped out of Edmonton.

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Yep. Close to home there.

 

[Falko]

Its from Fort McMurray and it was shipped out of Edmonton.

Did you check to make sure nobody left an 8-ball in the glove box then?

Nice truck.

 

[AQHACowboy]

Yes I am sure.

Thanks

 

[AQHACowboy]

So I am planning on going with long travel leafs in the rear with a bed cage and removable tire carrier that mounts to the bed cage.

Here is one of the ideas for a bed cage.

Here is the idea for the tire carrier to mount between the bars of the bed cage.

I am up in the air between a 37" or 38.5" tire, I have some time to figure it out while I am deployed overseas.

 

[AQHACowboy]

Well it looks like I will be buying new front fenders when I get back from deployment.

 

[Hurdt299]

Good looking truck. That's one of the main reasons I hate fender flares. How's the bed? There's been a lot of 3rd gen beds rusting out around here in the past few years.

 

[AQHACowboy]

Well the truck spent 9 years in Northern Alberta till I got it. The passenger side is brand new, I have not pulled the driver side yet. I will be pulling the driver side flare this weekend before I rewire my stereo.

 

[AQHACowboy]

I am active duty Army out of Fort Bragg and I am currently deployed and we will be back around December 11th. I am looking for anyone who can help with working on my truck. I been ordering parts since I been deployed and I have a laundry list of stuff I need to do. I was going to go to the self-help auto shop on base so I can use a lift. Unfortunately I have no one to help since my son is only 13 he cannot be in the bay to help.

The ball joints are toast, they have about 1/8” – 1/4” up and down play in them. The driver side u-joint is at least 5 years old and the passenger side was replaced with a cheap NAPA u-joint. The hub assemblies are the original one from 2006.

Here is the list of parts I need to put on my truck.

EAS EGT Probe with Starter Kit
EAS Pressure Sensor 0-100 PSIg 1/8IN NPT
EAS Universal Sensor Input (5 Volt)
FASS Titanium 150 GPH
Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit
Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block
Creative Fab Works C Gussets
Creative Fab Works Bed Supports
Thuren Control Arms
Thuren Adjustable Track Bar
Creative Fab Traction bars
Carli Ball Joints
Hub Assembly
Front Axle Spicer U-Joints
Carli Limit Straps
Carli Low Mount Stabilizer
Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit
Carli Full Leaf Pack
Lightforce wiring harness
Rear Door Wiring Harness

If possible I would like to get the C gussets and truss welded onto the front axle prior to putting the ball joints in. If you can help with the welding or know where I can take it to get the welding done that would be a huge help as well.

Any help would be great so I can get my truck back to 100%.

If you can help shoot me a pm or message up here.

Thank you in advance.

 

[UNBREAKABLE]

Too far away from me... I'm interested to see this finished

 

[AQHACowboy]

I got about 2 weeks till I am back in North Carolina then the building will begin

 

[AQHACowboy]

So here is my problem and you can see from the pictures 2 of the torx are pretty messed up.

Also you can see one of the stripped out bolts is not all the way in.

I am wondering if I can use a press like a ball joint press to push the u-joint out and if so which side of the u-joint do I press at.

The one that is on the flange?

Or the one that is on the drive shaft?

I am thinking the one on the flange so the shaft can move as the u-joint it pressed out.

Also found that who ever pulled the shaft never lined the index lines up so I was getting a front drive shaft vibration. Also with the one bolt missing and the other not all the way seated is another cause of the vibration.

Any help would be great.

 

[orange150]

Here's my stripped torx bolt removal kit.

I'm not sure if you can get an easy out in there, but they have worked wonders for me.

 

[AQHACowboy]

Where did you get that Irwin kit from?

Even if it does not work on the front flange bolts I can use that on other stuff

 

[orange150]

Lowes

 

[AQHACowboy]

Cool thanks.

I think I will still need to cut the ujoint out where the red arrows are so I can have more room to get to the bolt heads.

 

[frank]

You will have to apply heat to the yokes to back the factory nylon out that holds the caps in. The factory joints dont have C-clips.

 

[AQHACowboy]

Frank thank you for the help.

 

[AQHACowboy]

I got the drive shaft off and it only took 2 hours. Used a grinder, Hand held torch, Irwin Bolt Grip bolt head extractor and they were the best $20 I spent.

Here is a picture of the Irwin Bolt Grips. Got them at Lowes.

So now that is off back to working on upgrades. This weekend I am putting in my Spicer u-joints in the front axle shafts, 3 new u-joints in the front drive shaft (Waiting on the ARP fasteners from Jeg's), Thuren control arms, Carli Low Mount Stabilizer, balance the tires and alignment.