2013 Jeep Wrangler 2 door

thenewguy

New Member
Joined
May 15, 2013
Location
nc
Guys (and Gals),

I have an offer in on a 2013 jeep wrangler, 2 door in black. Only options are AC, hard top, and auto trans.

I am buying the base model to build it up myself.

Intentions are to start my build with 35's and 3.5 lift.

After that, bumpers and tire carrier.

After that, roof rack and metal fenders.

And that just might be the end of it.

I want it basic and black, to do some off roading, maybe some hills etc... here around Raleigh NC.
Maybe go camping and stuff like that.

Am I starting off in the right direction? I really do not want to pay for a rubicon just to take parts off.

My offer is 24k and budget around 6-8k for the work. I will skimp on things like plain metal wheels in place of fancy rims to save money and i really want a military looking jeep more than a shiney show jeep.

Am I heading in the right direction?
Thanks for any and all help!!

Mark
 
If you're planning on a 3.5 lift you might as well plan on driveshafts too. If you're planning on 35's you may want to also consider regearing. That rubicon with 4.10's can run the 35's much easier. That being said (if you're having a shop do the work) you can plan on 1400-2000 for a gear job alone.
 
And one of the first things I would recommend is a set of rock sliders if you're planning on taking it off road. Last thing you want to do is crush a rocker right off the bat.
 
You can run 35's with 2.5 in of lift with no problem. I had an 08 with a 44 rear and a junkyard find rubi front on 35's and loved it. If you go with 35's go with 4.56-4.88 gears and a front and rear locker. Definately go with rock sliders cause the rocker is a rock magnet. The JK is a great platform to build. Stay away from black if your the least bit OCD.
 
I suggest staying away from the metal fenders. Keep the plastic ones. You will have less body damage from wheeling.
 
I'd get the Rubicon if you actually intend to wheel it.

I'd also slow down and do some mroe research before you buy this.

2013 Rubi with 4.10s will easily run 35s. With thAT MUCH LIFT (i'D DO 2.5 WITH 35S) YOU WON'T need to replace the fenders/flares. You also won't need driveshafts.

What would you remove from a Rubi?

Lockers? No

Transfer case? No

4.10 gears? No

Hood sticker? Maybe, but doubtful.

Electronic swaybar? Maybe but doubtful.

Yes, the Rubi is more up front, but if you have to regear, add lockers, etc you're going to spend that moeny either way, probably more.
 
I agree with GotLime. You may want to look into the 2 door Rubicon if nothing else but to confirm your feelings on the bare bones model.
 
You CAN run 35s on a 13 rubi with no lift just need high clearance fender flares. If your gonna wheel it armor it up first. Skids, bumpers, and sliders.
 
With the rubi all you would need to add is the wheels and tires, a 2.5 lift and you'll have a surprisingly capable vehicle. They already come with low enough gearing and the rocker guards. If you're going to wheel it without lift and stuffed 35's you're asking for rub city.
 
I may take you up on that. Both the places that have quoted me came in at 2000 and some change for swapping my 3.21's with 5.13's. been looking for a reason to drive to Asheville
 
It is absolutely worth the money for the Rubicon in every aspect, if you are going to wheel this thing at all buy the rubicon. If you buy a standeard sport you will end up spending more than the cost of goin to the rubicon from the sport, an in my opinioun (for what its worth, I own a 13 rubi), and you will still not have a 4.1 transfer case either.

You can use a 2.5 inch lift kit, or flat flares(maybe a one inch spacer, chose youre flavor, no need to regear the rubi at all for 35,s. No need to gear o sport with 3.73 gears, be carefull, a lot of the sport come with 3.21 gears. (the ones with the steel wheels usually do have 3.21 gears)Gearing isn't near as much of an issue with the 3.6
 
I agree with Jason if you are only going to do 35's or even 37's. If you want to go bigger then start with an X and order your d60 axles.
 
The stock t-case gears are not bad at all if you are not doing serious crawling, you could probably trade w/cash the Rock-Trac case to someone to get a standard t-case to help offset the cash outlay.
 
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