20r, 22r propane and turbo discussion

toyota231

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Kernersville NC
Alright, I know this has been discussed some but I have never really saw any good information on doing a blow through setup. Mr stubbs has a good write up on the draw through (which I'm not against), I would just like to see if anyone has any insight or has actually built a blow through turbo propane setup on a Toyota engine, or any other engine for that matter. I'm seriously thinking about building my own setup on my 20r, while I know lots of folks suggest the gotpropane kit and his knowledge, I'm a poor fawker and also everthing he says goes against the blow through setup. As I research quite a few folks say the blow through setup works and works good, but no write ups or information is out there on the proper components to use on the blow through. Discussion on, and any good info or pics would be appreciated, because that's what is so hard to find. Btw I'm not doing it for all out power or anything other than a good running diy project, plus im tired of dealing with my crappy weber carb.
 
I have a 22r draw thru with a got propane kit dwr manifold its just stupid easy and it works bolt on roll out and your still under a grand and if your thinking about doing it its totally worth it i know the other josh on here has a blow thru and another guy i know has one it will work but some people love it some hate it but have you ever heard anyone say they didn't like a draw thru ? That's why i went this route @snappy may chime in i took his advice to heart.

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As I stated, I'm not against a draw through setup, never heard anything bad, I'm really just trying to see if anyone has personally built and has info or build pics of a blow through. From research there are many that say it's been done but info and pics are very scarce, draw through info is more available. Honestly one upside of the blow through setup for me, looks more compact and a cleaner looking setup, plus most folks I've seen doing a draw through use a 22re intake manifold, where as if I use my 20r that can't happen, the blow through would work easier if I have to use my 20r intake, at least I think so. Honestly I fully understand the draw through side of the argument, I'm just trying to see if there is more info on the blow through side of it.
 
It works about the same you just use a balance tube between the vaporizer and the charge pipe the issue is you will have a dead spot when your mixer gos from vacuum to boost it works and people have tuned around it but will always be there you can get a easy adapter to go on your intake im not running a efi intake either

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I completely understand how it works, and I've read exactly what you have said a few times. I'm looking for more technical aspects of it, pictures of setups, knowledge from folks that have actually built a blow through setup, ect. Really curious as to which mixer, regulator, turbo, ect, people use in either setup, stuff like that, because that is info that isn't readily available, even on draw through setups, people rarely explain what equipment is used and why. I was hoping to get a more technical discussion with info, pics of what is used and why.
 
Got ya i have a ca200 mixer model e vaporizer and a small t3 turbo
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On a 20/22r with a turbo the ca200 is the smallest mixer i would run. Might want a 225, 300, or 425 depending how built the engine is.

Model e/l vaporizer/reg is pretty standard on all the commonly used lpg systems. Just have to have one with a reference port.

Here is a quote from Buddy at AltFuel

You should also use a Model "E" or "L" vaporizer to supply enough fuel for a 200 series mixer. The timing will be critical on a boosted engine so make sure it is right.

The weak point in a 200 series is the top cover. You could try it, I have seen several engines running 200 mixers with more than 5 lbs. boost. You will need to run a balance line from the mixer to vaporizer to vacuum lockoff valve to prevent lean out under boost.

Here are instructions I put together for setting the timing. This would apply to boosted engines as well.


Setting Timing for a Propane Engine


On most applications, the timing should be a total of 30 degrees(base and centrifugal) with all of it in by 2500 rpm. What we normally do is disconnect the vacuum advance, run the engine up to 2500 rpm, set the timing at 30, lock it down, then let it idle with the vacuum advance disconnected. See what your base timing is running. If it is low,4-10 degrees for example, you can alter the centrifugal to lower that number and increase the base, still keeping a total of 30 degrees. As you increase the base timing check to see if the engine spins and starts smoothly when hot. If you reach a point that the engine bucks or loads the starter, back off about 3-4 degrees and that is your base timing. Subtract that number from 30 degrees and that will be the advance you need to have. This will provide a good start, strong idle and proper advance curve. We have had some engines run as much as 20 degrees base timing but 14-16 degrees is normal. The vacuum advance should be connected to ported vacuum and have no more than 10 degrees. This helps fuel economy at light throttle positions.

Buddy Gamel
Precision Sales & Service, Inc.
451 64th Place South
Birmingham, Ala. 35212

877-403-7827, office
205-837-8871, mobile
205-591-2267, fax


bgamel@alternatefuel.com
bgamel@workhorsesupply.com
www.alternatefuel.com
www.workhorsesupply.com
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