220 Outlet

Not sure about the cost of doing it, but to have an electrician just go out to your house is anywhere from $60 - $80, so be prepared for over $100
 
yeah, minimum, per hour. And he'll take his time cause he doesn't want to come out for just an hour, but usually wants to be there a half a day, at least.

Why not wire it up yourself? its not hard. Or, ask for help on the board. I've done all my own electrical work at my house and it hasen't burned down yet :D

Well, I kind of know a little about it, enough to feel safe doing it.

Just ask, there are plenty of people who will help, but ya gotta weed through all the crap (like people posting using a 110V outlet on a 220V line, etc. etc.)


Rob
 
Would depend on *IF* there is already "power" (220VAC breaker panel/disconnect) in the "garage" or if things like lights are snaked off the main house panel.

If there's a 220V panel already there *AND* it has sufficient capacity to support the recommended breaker (I used a 50A so I could plug other equipment in if needed) *AND* physical space to mount it... it would involve the cost of the breaker, the wire to get from the panel to where you want the recpticle, the recepticle, & of course... LABOR. Probably a few hundred$ depending on how much wire to run from panel to recpt.


If there isn't any 220VAC in the garage, better bend over... it'll likely exceed the cost of the welder! :eek:
 
rockcity said:
Just ask, there are plenty of people who will help, but ya gotta weed through all the crap (like people posting using a 110V outlet on a 220V line, etc. etc.)

Uh, what's wrong with that Rob?

If split into 2 seperate 110V legs, the 110V commons & grounds are usually connected at the bus. That's how the 220V is split into 110V inside the panel anyway...
 
I have got the 2005 NEC book so if you do it your self and need to know the code on it, let me know, btw I wired my shop 220 for about $200..75' of wire and a sub-panel and some breakers, it is realy not that hard like rockcity said there is alot of people that will help on the board
 
Well im sure its not hard if you know what all those things are . . . yea I don't know crap about wiring in a house and its also my dads garage in Mooresville so he wouldn't let me start experimenting with his wiring, he wants me to get it done by someone who knows what they're doing. My dad did mention something about a range I think being right on the other side of the garage wall????
 
Caver Dave said:
Uh, what's wrong with that Rob?

If split into 2 seperate 110V legs, the 110V commons & grounds are usually connected at the bus. That's how the 220V is split into 110V inside the panel anyway...


everything is wrong with that. You didn't read my post good enough. I said do not put a 110V OUTLET on a 220V LINE. If you split the 220V line into 2 110V legs, then its no longer a 220V line, its a 110V line.

If installed like I stated earlier, someone will get hurt or start a fire. I'd hate to plug the shop vac into a 220V 50A outlet because someone put a 110V outlet on there. :eek:


And don't think it won't happen, cause I've read it on here before. :confused:


Rob
 
And the silly fawkers that will build a 3-prong 220V extension cord to their welder cart, then pull off one of the hot legs and the ground to get a 110V receptacle on the side of the cart for their grinder or WTF ever. :rolleyes:
 
rockcity said:
I said do not put a 110V OUTLET on a 220V LINE. If you split the 220V line into 2 110V legs, then its no longer a 220V line, its a 110V line.

I'm on the same page with you now Rob! :handed:

Would be pretty dang stupid to use a 110V/15A recept. and feed it 220V... when a 240V/30A is a massive $2 more at HD! :D
 
rockcity said:
I'd hate to plug the shop vac into a 220V 50A outlet because someone put a 110V outlet on there. :eek:

My roommate in Germany did that... I brought over a vacuum.. I normally ran it off a transformer... He didn't think about it, and plugged it right into the 220 wall outlet.. ZING!!
 
Is there a breaker panel in the Garage? If so, is it flush mounted or do you have easy access to the knock outs on the panel?

If it is flush mounted in the wall, your biggest problem will be fishing the wires from the breaker panel to the outlet. Wiring it up is the easy part.
 
My pannel is not in my "garage" but the laundry room which used to be a storage room to the garage. My parent's is the same way as mine now.

Usually if ya gotta run wires, its not very far. What I did was to wire up a proper outlet for my welder on its own circuit. But instead of running wires all over the garage from the attic, I just put the outlet a few feet below the box and run my extension cord from the welder to the outlet. That way I didn't have to fish wires through any walls. Saved time and $$$. Only drawback is that I have my welder's drop cord running under the back corner of the door from the laundry room to the garage. The cord is tucked back away from traffic and is behind all kinds of things, so I never really know its there. It actually took my wife 3 weeks to notice it and shes in there everyday!

Good luck.


Rob
 
jrraw23 said:
I don't think i've ever seen a breaker panel in the garage, the main one is at the back of the house, but like I said the range thing is on the other side of the wall of the garage.

OK, technically, you can switch the breaker for the range off, open the range receptacle, connect your new wire to the terminals in the outlet so that the colors match (white to white, bare-ground to ground, black to lack). So you will now have the supply wire from the breaker and your new wire in each screw connection on the range outlet. Then fish the wire through the wall (be sure not to damage the wire insulation when fishing through the wall). By the way, it is easier to fish the wire through the wall first.

Once through the wall, mount a surface mount outlet box with the wire coming into the back of it and wire up your new outlet. The bare wire should go to the ground on the outlet. On most of the big outlets you can easily see which is the ground terminal and it will most likely be green. By the way, the ground on the welder if it is like most will be the round prong.

I'll probably get flamed for this, but the other two wires can be connected to either of the reamaining terminals on the new plug.


Clear as mud.....
 
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